Flywheel housing

I am a little confused. In post number 11 what is being aligned?

The face of the flywheel housing to the face of the flange on the crankshaft.
In the pictures you can't see the plunger on the back of the dial indicator that is pressing against the face of the FW housing.
 
Here’s a explanation that helped me understand how to align it.
 

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I feel that it is easier to dial in the fly wheel housing with the engine out of the car . I don't like working on my back under the car anymore than I can avoid . I consider one of the main things to remember is the gasket between the engine and the flywheel housing .
 
It's a magnetic base dial indicator. You can flag down the next tool truck (Mac, Cornwell, etc.) you see, or find a tool supply store. As a last resort look on the internet.
 
It's a magnetic base dial indicator. You can flag down the next tool truck (Mac, Cornwell, etc.) you see, or find a tool supply store. As a last resort look on the internet.

I wonder what the shade tree mechanics did in the 1930's during the depression when they didn't have access to or couldn't afford a tool like the magnetic dial indicator?

David Serrano
 
Any kind of bar type lash up to insure the flywheel housing is on the same plane as the crankshaft flange,this insures the trasmission input shaft is parallel with the crankshaft.shafts in alignment spin true and allow for smooth clutch action and easier shifting.
 
Are shims almost always required after a rebuild - and are shims applied to just the top two bolts or to any of the four as required ? I have really bad clutch chatter even though the PO installed all new components including a V8 pressure plate. Thinking flywheel housing alignment may be the culprit.
 
You can use shims and a gasket,shims without a gasket (sealant),gasket no shims,no shim no gasket. Play with the combinations to find the sweet spot.I went through 5 used flywheel housings before I found a true,uncracked one. Ford had 5 revisions of housings that I know of,the late 31 reinforced one is whats available new from the vendors,and its the best. Going used? when you look at one,hold it with one finger and ring it like a bell with a wrench,if it 'clanks' its cracked.

3TXGali.jpg

2nd revision early 28

rJQ3zW0.jpg

late 31 ribbed
 
I'm with BRENT on splitting the flywheel & bell housings & leaving everything else attached. Just don't miss the bottom two bolts that are in between the radius rod arms. You can't remove them completely as the radius rod Y is in the way, so you have to loosen them, pull the engine a bit and then unscrew them the rest of the way.
 
Aloha all, I'm new to the "A" world. Just acquired mine in August of 18 from E-Bay. Seller wasn't totally honest and I've been having some issues and trying to work through them. What I need is a source of information with step by step directions to replace the flywheel housing on my 1931 coupe. It's badly cracked around the starter. Bought a new one from Snyders.
Thanks for any help


Unless I missed it, removing the flywheel COULD BE a problem for someone new to this work. I use a block of wood and lightly tap it loose through the starter hole as I rotate the crank. Any other ideas about this??
 
I wonder what the shade tree mechanics did in the 1930's during the depression when they didn't have access to or couldn't afford a tool like the magnetic dial indicator?

David Serrano

We have those same kind of Mechanics today, doing substandard work.

The Ford Garages had the right tools from K.R. Wilson.

Dial Indicator, and all.

It is one of the most important settings on the Model A Motors.

You have to have 4 Sguare points to bolt to, any thing less, will pull it out of alignment.

This can all be done with the shimming of the top two ears.

Herm.
 

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