Flywheel/clutch suggestions?

Pandersen33

Pandersen33

Member
Ive started swapping my tired 35/36 motor trans combo for a rebuilt 39 combo. Currently the 39 setup has what appears to be a flywheel and pressure plate for an 11” clutch. The original is setup for a 9”. It has a recessed flywheel with 6 fingers on the pressure plate. My question is is one of these better for a sedan daily driver type? Im also having a hard time locating a shop in The auburn/CA area that can resurface/balance whichever setup i go with.
 

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What I think is the best street flywheel/clutch is. or the t pre 8BA is an early flywheel with the sholder removed and a beefed 9" pressure plate For the 49 uP the beefed up91'2 clutch. This keeps enough weight on the engine for low end torque
 
An 11 inch flywheel would appear to indicate that your replacement engine and transmission came from a truck. That would also explain whether the surface is damaged on the flywheel. It likely came from a truck with a four speed transmission, unneeded in a car. If the flywheel and transmission are usable from your car, it may be advisable reuse them. In this age of automatic transmissions, finding a shop that is able to grind and
rebalance flywheels is hard to find. We do it in our shop, here in the midwest. Even so we get the jobs shipped in to us from long distances.
 
I would use the 11" pressure plate, fly wheel and have it re-drilled for a 9" pressure plate since you want it refaced and balanced anyway. Borg and Beck is the early style pressure plate and Long is the later style.
 
Ok so use the current 11” flywheel and get a 9” pp and clutch? What is the downside of the 36 setup? Is it heavier or somethin? Also what would be the downside of the 11” clutch? Thanks for all the replies.
 
Pandersen33 said:
Ok so use the current 11” flywheel and get a 9” pp and clutch? What is the downside of the 36 setup? Is it heavier or somethin? Also what would be the downside of the 11” clutch? Thanks for all the replies.
Click to expand...

11" clutch and PP are heavy and not needed for a stock motor in a car.
 
An eleven inch clutch takes a lot more effort to operate and is way "overkill" for your needs. The vehicle would be a lot "friendlier" to drive with a 9".
If your flywheel isn't heat cracked, I'd suggest you have it ground and drilled for the 9" clutch. Balancing is in my opinion, well worth the minimal cost.
That recessed flywheel you refer to is fine as is. I tend to mill the "lip" off when replacing a clutch. Makes it a bit lighter - not something that really matters in a stock car. So, cut the lip off or leave it on... you won't note any difference in performance.
If you can't find a place near you, contact Supereal in a previous post (#3) and send it to him. You can be assured the work will be completed properly.
 
Ok so looks like I’ll go with the earlier flywheel with the 9” seeing as I can barely find a machine shop around here that will resurface/balance a flathead flywheel and thought I was crazy about re-drilling for another pressure plate. Next question- when looking at the replacement clutch/ plate setups they appear different than what I have. This (the blue one) looks like its from a 28-34? Do I need to go with that or will the lighter 35-40 clutch setups bolt and fit (depth) to this?
 
Be care full if you buy one of the 9in ones lots of places sell,No counter weights, no adjustable fingers and made in China,
Look for some one who recons the counter weighted ones.
Lawrie
 
neat... if you have a heavy foot (not much). More clutch is fine. Less there is an issue on clearance on the bell???
 
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The blue pressure plate is designed for the flywheel with the lip - as it mounts on the lip and "hangs down" in to the flywheel recess. So - you can't take the lip off the flywheel and use that clutch and you can't re-drill the current flywheel for that clutch. If it was mine, I'd use the current 11" flywheel and buy a correct 9" pressure plate. I'd contact Ft. Wayne Clutch and Brake - they should be able to get you setup. They may or may not require a clutch "core" to rebuild - but there are plenty of those out there. You can go with a 9" long or a 10" long . . . either should be just fine. Once you have the proper pressure plate and disc, then take it and the flywheel to be re-drilled for the new clutch setup.

Make sure they know that you will be using "shoulder bolts" - the flywheel needs to be drilled to use them. I'd buy a new set of bolts from ARP and bring those with you to the machine shop - might as well give them everything!
 
No problems with chatter. Just kind of cheap insurance to not pull this motor back out. Definitly replacing the disc tho! I know there is a million shops out there but i’ve gotten ahold of 1 that can even balance a flywheel on their own without “sending it out” aka charging more than is needed. None in the sacramento foothill area have responded positivly with regards to drilling for a new setup. This is more of a daily driver car so im not super concerned with small performance differences like flywheel and clutch weight
 
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