Fluid for Sioux valve surfacer

GB SISSON

GB SISSON

Well-known member
My sioux surfacer has a pump down in the sump and nozzles at the wheels. I have not used one of these yet, but have been gathering info. My search led to a very ugly debate on Practical Machinest site where two long time valve grinders argued about water with a bit of dish soap added or a very light oil. There is a fluid offered online for 36 bucks with 48.00 for shipping, but the folks who prefered a light oil were talking kerosene. But of course someone chimed in with "what is the flash point of kerosene?" What do folks here suggest?
 
I run my valve grinder dry. Just don't make long hard cuts....which you shouldn't have to any way. On the stem you will see it get slightly blue, but another light cut takes it off, so again, light cuts to stay cool.
 
GB SISSON said:
My sioux surfacer has a pump down in the sump and nozzles at the wheels. I have not used one of these yet, but have been gathering info. My search led to a very ugly debate on Practical Machinest site where two long time valve grinders argued about water with a bit of dish soap added or a very light oil. There is a fluid offered online for 36 bucks with 48.00 for shipping, but the folks who prefered a light oil were talking kerosene. But of course someone chimed in with "what is the flash point of kerosene?" What do folks here suggest?
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I use mineral oil. Flash point is much higher than kerosene, around 350°f .
I think kerosene is only about half of that.

When I, as tool maker, was machining aluminum, I'd always use mineral oil as it allowed for the nicest possible finish.
 
I also use water and soluble oil its simple and not expensive. It works perfectly on all material's including light weight titanium valves.
Ronnieroadster
 
Thanks for the replies, but they can lead to more questions, such as what constitutes a mineral oil? I think of the stuff from the drug store as mineral oil, or is mineral oil thge 'soluable oil' mentioned above? And where does one buy it? The proprietory brand stuff like Sioux's 250 cost a lot to ship because of shipping dangers/laws etc. Oil based paints are getting the same way. For instance in my search some folks used ATF. Is that a mineral oil? MMO? And Skip I sort of went through this two months ago with my new to me metal cutting band saw. Dry or lubed? So far I'm cutting dry as I really went through the saw and got it all pretty and dialed in and didn't want it to be a big mess. Now back to valve grinding fluid. More about the soluable oil please. Thanks GB
 
GB, I bought a Sioux 680 grinder new in the 80's (had my own business for 20 years) and have always used ATF. It doesn't go bad or evaporate and it does a very nice job for me. I think a light mineral oil would do a fine job as well, and a soluble oil would too (very good at cooling), but you'll have more cleanup and evaporation with soluble.


Terry
 
I’ve used 50/50 mix of kerosene and automatic transmission fluid in mine for years. Thats what my machinist suggested back then.
 
My grandfather replaced his Sunnen with a new valve Souix"resurfacer" and he used water soiiuble oil in the mid fiftys.


Bruce
 
Looks like there are many different ways to keep the valve cool while grinding. Mine will have very intermittent use with lots of sitting time so I will take all of this info under consideration. I might be a good candidate for light mineral oil/atf type or similar combination with its resistance to evaporation. The apparatus seems to be in remarkably good condition, and it's operation quite straightforward. I need to get an instruction manual for it. Thanks all!
 
Looks like there are many different ways to keep the valve cool while grinding. Mine will have very intermittent use with lots of sitting time so I will take all of this info under consideration. I might be a good candidate for light mineral oil/atf type or similar combination with its resistance to evaporation. The apparatus seems to be in remarkably good condition, and it's operation quite straightforward. I need to get an instruction manual for it. Thanks all!
 
I have been using RV anti freeze for a long time in my mill that hold about 4 gallons so why not in the valve Kwik Way. The idea is to cool and take light passes..
 
big job said:
I have been using RV anti freeze for a long time in my mill that hold about 4 gallons so why not in the valve Kwik Way. The idea is to cool and take light passes..
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Interesting.... The whole topic is interesting to me. For instance I'd never heard of water soluable oil until yesterday. Sounds like an oxymoron, but obviously not. Do any of you store your fluid in a tank or jug under your machine and run a pump like an electric fuel pump with a pickup into this resevoir with a return line from the sump for recirculation? The thought of this open sump all year 'round with dead flies floating around in it and evaporation going on just seems sort of crude, even for me. For a novice (hick) like me, is there danger in hurting/clogging the stones if I were to carefully grind some valves dry like Skip does? He and I tend to think and work alike in many instances. In other words is this fluid only for cooling? I see in another thread right now that some surfacers use 'dry stones'. Why do I always have to overthink everything.....
 
What you will get with limited use of the machine with water soluble oil is a film floating on the water. It can be stirred and will dissolve but that’s a pain. With use, you will get a buildup of metal from the valves and grit from the stones in the bottom of your reservoir. That has to be cleaned occasionally. I have used different makes of valve grinders and currently have two Sioux’s. They seem to work the easiest for me especially if you use the Sioux depth gauges to measure the valve lengths.
 
Well GB I think we all overthink at times. So now lets think of grinding a lathe tool blank and and take a healthy grind till ya fingers get hot so dunk it in cup of water continue on, and then I have faced valves with nothing at all we are only facing not grinding an axe if its rusted or deep pits then in the chip barrel.there is a coolant nozzel but nothing else on the machine? I would show a pic but it says enter a url ? what ever that is so I can not but use to.
 
big job said:
Well GB I think we all overthink at times. So now lets think of grinding a lathe tool blank and and take a healthy grind till ya fingers get hot so dunk it in cup of water continue on, and then I have faced valves with nothing at all we are only facing not grinding an axe if its rusted or deep pits then in the chip barrel.there is a coolant nozzel but nothing else on the machine? I would show a pic but it says enter a url ? what ever that is so I can not but use to.
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There are nozzles plumbed in with valves and copper tubing. It all looks factory. These are fed by a yellow plastic submersible pump that sits in the right front corner of the sump. The 110 v pump rattles like it's working when plugged in. I'm heading to shop after I eat so will get a pic or two. And yes it has that adjustable stop with the brass knurled nut that so nicely cradles the valve head for end grinding.
 
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