Float level

I would say to add gaskets for shims at the needle valve-dont bend the float. I set it at 1 and a 16th at the float soader line. This is on a zenith...you didnt say what you were working on...
 
Spike, where are you measuring your float? I assemble the upper carb body, flip upside down, and measure the top edge of the float(now the bottom) to 5/8" like Henry listed. I'm not really sure why you want to "lean out" your float setting. Most likely you have a different problem.
 
Bending the float is not a good idea. Many times when restoring a Zenith I have had to discard the float because it was so badly molested it would not close the valve properly. Adding or subtracting washers is the way to go. However, my experience has been that a new unmolested float will close the valve properly at the 5\8" nominal level with just one washer under the valve.

To set the float level accurately the best method is to have a test stand that will not only visibly show the level where the valve closes, it can also be monitored over a period of time to see if it will hold at the level.

A float stand can be fairly simple. You can even mount a glass jar under the top casting while it is on the car and see where the level is. The various suppliers sell a device that screws into the drain plug that has a clear tube that indicates the float level. I never had any luck with them though, so I built a test stand. It has been used at numerous club seminars over the years. Photos attached.

Tom Endy
 
photos didn't load, try it again.

Tom Endy
 

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Surely it's got to be gas to get the correct viscosity, flow charactistics, (and specific gravity too I guess if we're going nit pick.
 
yes i always use fuel
renners corner has a nicer float level tool than the jobbers sell its sturdy and more accurate
its the same place i just bought the flow tested jet set
 

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Thats a good lookin test stand Tom. Are you using gas to test or some other liquid?


Yes, I use gasoline. I drain some out of my Vic into a quart can. It is then poured into the container at the top of the test stand. After a test the fuel is drained back into the quart can from the valve located at the bottom of the test stand. The remainder that is in the glass jar and fuel line is pored back into the quart can when the glass jar is removed from the test stand.

keeping in mind that gasoline is volatile, care is taken when performing a test. The stand is set up in a well ventilated area (like outside, or at the entrance to the garage with the overhead door open) and there is no smoking or any other source of ignition present in the area.

Tom Endy
 
Nice. I was wondering about how you got it back out. It seems like an awful lot of gas to be using, but looks like a great setup.
 
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