I realize there are many previous posts on setting the float level on the Zenith 2 and I believe I have read every one! I cannot get the float level to come down anywhere near the 5/8" level with the clear hose tester....have tried a combination of every shim washer and still high; Have checked the initial setup as per Les Andrew's book with the carb upper half inverted and shimmed under the new viton float valve for a 1" distance from float seam to top of bowl body with float level and parallel with carb body; have boiled the float with no bubbles - also, the float itself appears undamaged. Could the fuel be leaking into the bowl at the fuel inlet connection? If possible, teflon tape on threads to cure? One thing I haven't done is to invert the top carb half so the needle on the float valve should be seated and try to blow air from the fuel inlet connection.....will do this tomorrow. Also will try teflon tape on float valve threads. This forum is the best and there are so many folks here with so much knowledge that I know the answer is close. I really appreciate all the help and advice here!
Float Level High
- Thread starter Rojo
- Start date
johnbuckley
Well-known member
Sticking float hinge? Leaking float valve (even new ones sometimes leak) poor seal at float valve gasket? Crack/porosity in fuel inlet passage- ( though I've never come across such a thing)? as #2 say - over-heavy float, but nearly all are within acceptable range unless they've been repaired with loads of solder.
Have you tried removing the lower body and replacing it with a glass jar ( our jars of Ialian olives are just the right size over here!) to observe just what's happening as the fuel level rises. That may give you a clue.
Have you tried removing the lower body and replacing it with a glass jar ( our jars of Ialian olives are just the right size over here!) to observe just what's happening as the fuel level rises. That may give you a clue.
Mitch//pa
BANNED
buy a new float and brattons sells a small little kit with different thickness gaskets to get it right on the mark. i have not seen this washer kit available in the other catalogues..
never push or bend the float itself
renners corner sells a good quality fuel level gauge which is better than what all the others sell FYI
never push or bend the float itself
renners corner sells a good quality fuel level gauge which is better than what all the others sell FYI
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Sure appreciate all the replies....dreamed about a Zenith carb last night! I have arrived at the same conclusion as several here - if the fuel level is high, it can only be the float valve switch or the float itself. Going to try this in a bit: attach the top half of the carb back on the manifold and gently hold the float up against the valve with a tie wrap. If it leaks when I turn on the tank shutoff valve, must be the float switch. Then I will try to isolate the things mentioned here, i.e. valve threads, stuck switch, etc. If no leak, must be the float or maybe the gasket rubbing and not allowing it to rise properly. That's why I love this Model A...it will turn out to be something that makes perfect sense and does not involve rocket science! Thanks everyone for their replies....I will post when I determine a cause/fix for the high fuel level in the bowl.
modela@aol.com
Well-known member
Carb rebuilding 101
A bent pin that holds the float to the bracket can also be a culprit causing a subtle sticking movement to the float swinging. Easy to check.. Just roll the pin on a flat surface to check for a bend or flat spot.
A bent pin that holds the float to the bracket can also be a culprit causing a subtle sticking movement to the float swinging. Easy to check.. Just roll the pin on a flat surface to check for a bend or flat spot.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
A couple things not mentioned
I can't recommend teflon tape in a carburetor.
The needle wears a dimple in the float after time which can/should be filed/sanded/emory out.
I can't recommend teflon tape in a carburetor.
The needle wears a dimple in the float after time which can/should be filed/sanded/emory out.
Think I've narrowed it down to the float. When I invert the top half and blow in the fuel inlet, no air comes out the float valve....so don't think it's leaking....haven't put it back on the manifold yet and tie wrapped the float up to see if it leaks with the shutoff valve on....will check that as soon as it warms a bit in my garage. Float pin is straight and no obvious bending or damage to float....have no way to weigh it...thinking about taking to a jewelry shop and asking if they would do it!
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Response #5 with replacing an "unknown" 80+ year old float which may have extra weight with repair solder "inside" makes sense.
A new float will cost about the same as two (2) combo meals at a Burger Place & save time.
Then "if" one does not have a good gram scale, one (1) at Amazon.com Prime will cost about the same as one & one-half (1-1/2) burger combo meals.
If one buys 3 or 4 cans of Campbell Soup in lieu of 3 or 4 burger meals, this at least "sounds" better than just shelling out $20.00 for a new carb float. Campbell soup can often times translate into proper Model A repairs.
Just another simple matter of changing one's theory on economics & diet to try to save valuable time & efficiently troubleshoot Model A mysteries.
A new float will cost about the same as two (2) combo meals at a Burger Place & save time.
Then "if" one does not have a good gram scale, one (1) at Amazon.com Prime will cost about the same as one & one-half (1-1/2) burger combo meals.
If one buys 3 or 4 cans of Campbell Soup in lieu of 3 or 4 burger meals, this at least "sounds" better than just shelling out $20.00 for a new carb float. Campbell soup can often times translate into proper Model A repairs.
Just another simple matter of changing one's theory on economics & diet to try to save valuable time & efficiently troubleshoot Model A mysteries.
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