Float a motors

katy said:
While we're on the subject of FAMs, should the frame mounted part of the rear FAMs have the rubber pads between it and the frame, like the originals had?
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Yes it comes with the fam mounting kits from supplier.

Fredski
 
The rubber pads go between the outside plate and the frame.Not between the mounting casting and the frame.That casting goes directly against the inside of the frame.I took some apart a few years ago where the owner had put rubber between the casting and frame.I don't know how he had managed to get the bolts to drop down through the rubbers,but he did.When I drove the bolt up with a big punch,it let go with a bang when it cleared.
 
Carolina... good question.. since my car is immobile on jack stands, I needed to remove the front motor mount and lift the motor to replace the FAM donuts... this seemed the easiest way, if you have a running car I don't have any experience with the replacement.
 
You can just put a board on a jack and pump it up under the flywheel housing.It takes very little pressure to pick the motor up the little it needs to go up.You will only be doing one side at a time.
 
I had a jack under the ball joint for the wishbone then had my wife stand on the running board to tilt the frame and could easily pop them in and out of there with my fingers.
 
I just installed FAMs on my Tudor I use for touring. Much improvement over the originals, which were in good condition. Touring "B" Engine with counter balanced crank etc. I just finished a 900 mile tour and am very pleased.:)

One thing I did do differently was to replace the two long 7/16 standard (course) thread bolts that came in the kit with SAE (fine) thread bolts. I feel it is easier to get the proper pre-load on the mounts. With the fine thread bolts, I tightened the lock nut until I could no longer turn the flat washer with my fingers then tighten the nut an additional 1/2 turn. For my car, that seems to work best.

My experience.

Chris W.
 
The rubber pads go between the outside plate and the frame.Not between the mounting casting and the frame.That casting goes directly against the inside of the frame.
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I looked at our's and there is rubber pads on both sides of the frame where the rear FAMs are mounted. The vertical bolts line up perfectly.
It also doesn't have the transmission mount part, is it really needed?
 

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I had to put my old rear rubber back in, the replacement was too soft (and too short) and allowed the engine assembly to move rearward enough that my throttle linkage rubbed the firewall. That made interesting noises.:eek: Do you suppose the material is neoprene? I've found an Ebay supplier that sells one inch square neoprene in three foot lengths $13. Enough for everyone!
Katy, does your A have a stock front mount or a FAM (2-rubber mounts). If it has the FAM, that may hold things stationary enough that the rear FAM is not needed? Mine has stock from mount and can move some for and aft.
 
Art, it has the stock front mount. I replaced it recently because it had an aftermarket setup with cone shaped springs w/rubbers inside that was hard as the hubs of h#ll. It sat too high and the crankshaft didn't line up w/the hole in the front spring clip.
 
katy said:
I looked at our's and there is rubber pads on both sides of the frame where the rear FAMs are mounted. The vertical bolts line up perfectly.
It also doesn't have the transmission mount part, is it really needed?
Click to expand...

Katy, When the rubber fell out of that fitting, my car developed a serious clutch shudder till I made a new one. I figure they wouldn't have gone to the trouble and expense of making it if it weren't needed.

I have heard criticism of these engine mounts saying that with the engine now able to move a little, the A frame from the front axle is not held as rigidly, allowing the front axle to move and thus make the car handling "mushy". Also saying that the chassis flexes much more in that area without the support of the flywheel housing acting like a cross member. Any comments from anyone?
 
I've read this thread and others concerning FAM's....

I installed a FAM on the main engine mounts along with the yoke at the clamshell

Things were much improved so I figured if this is good then adding a front FAM style mount must be better...

I got a Bratton's mount through Bert's and installed it when I put the new radiator in...

There is much more vibration now...

Clearly it is a set-up issue and easily (??)resolved..

So, the question is, do you set up the front FAM style motor mount the same as the main mounts? Just to the point of compressing the rubber doughnuts? The instructions from Snyder's just say to "tighten" the bolts...

I've tried tighter and looser on both front and rear mounts and if there is a "sweet spot" I've missed it...
 
I think its voodoo...
Seems I can have pretty low vibration by having very loose mounts, then my clutch is so jumpy it about throws me out the window... now that you mention it I think the steering gets a little wobbly too. I have things snugged down some now, clutch is pretty good, but have significant vibes on deceleration. Probably an OK trade-off. I guess for us guys driving stock engines and drive trains this is as good as it gets?
 
Maybe you are right, we are expecting too much...

This is the only Model A I've ever driven and have only ridden a short way in one other......perhaps with the stock engine there will just be RPM ranges with vibration.

Mine was pretty good with the FAM's on the back and the stock mount on the front...should have been happy then!
 
Just as an update I've been slowly adjusting the Float a Motor mounts and it has improved dramatically....not as smooth as a '51 jeep, but pretty nice.

I'm counting castellations on the nuts as I adjust!....

Looser seems better....

I've got the FAM style front mount, main mounts and transmission support yoke...
 
I have mine set to an acceptable level, stopping the tailpipe vibration just made everything seem better. I think mine are tighter than suggested, but the clutch works pretty good so will leave it that way. Mostly I feel some vibes in the petals and steering wheel upon hard deceleration. I'll replace the rubber in the steering column mount and see if that helps. My front mount/spring setup is not stock, but has some rubber doughnuts top and bottom of the cross member, don't know if it's a early FAM or something else, but the tightness of the front mount/nut can make a big difference.
 
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