Mike/Nebraska
Senior Member
I was wanting to hear the pros and cons about the float a motor. Would be used on a speedster.
Float A Motor
- Thread starter Mike/Nebraska
- Start date
J Franklin
Well-known member
A con would be in a speedster it is not needed, looses frame rigidity, and costs money.
Mike/Nebraska
Senior Member
Good point, thanks
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Searching here is your friend...
In the interim, look at this post and read from #5 to the end.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329378
nkaminar
Well-known member
Aside from the frame issues, the Float-A-Motor makes it harder to pull and install the engine. You would think it would be easier but you have to unbolt the aluminum mounts from the engine.
Most cars have rubber pads that have become as stiff as old leather and no longer provide any cushioning. If you decide to keep the original mounts, replace the rubber pads.
The original flywheel was so heavy that the torsional vibration in the crankshaft was all forward of the flywheel. The lightened flywheels do have torsional vibration and this adds to the vibration felt by the driver. Plus, the speed that the Model A was driven at in 1930 was a lot lower than we drive them at today, so the vibration generated by the engine was not felt as much. Drive your car with the stock flywheel at 40 mph and you will not feel much vibration.
If you do decide to use the Float-A-Motor mounts, do not tighten the bolts that run through the rubber pads. Just bring the nuts up to the point where the bolts are not moving up and down. If you over tighten the bolts it well defeat the dampening action of the rubber pads.
Most cars have rubber pads that have become as stiff as old leather and no longer provide any cushioning. If you decide to keep the original mounts, replace the rubber pads.
The original flywheel was so heavy that the torsional vibration in the crankshaft was all forward of the flywheel. The lightened flywheels do have torsional vibration and this adds to the vibration felt by the driver. Plus, the speed that the Model A was driven at in 1930 was a lot lower than we drive them at today, so the vibration generated by the engine was not felt as much. Drive your car with the stock flywheel at 40 mph and you will not feel much vibration.
If you do decide to use the Float-A-Motor mounts, do not tighten the bolts that run through the rubber pads. Just bring the nuts up to the point where the bolts are not moving up and down. If you over tighten the bolts it well defeat the dampening action of the rubber pads.
Jim Brierley
Well-known member
I had a severe chatter problem on a tudor that I bought years ago. I changed to stock mounts, this helped but the final answer was a diaphragm clutch. I have always used stock mounts on my speedster, and recommend you do the same.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Yes, you are basically correct however for clarity, F-a-M mounts are allowed in Touring Class Judging, ...just not Fine Point.
AzBob
Senior Member
My Model A came to me with FAM's.
I replaced the pads with new and still not totally happy with them. Every time I see original mounts for sale at a swap meet, I am tempted to buy them. Reading this thread has convinced me to go back to the original mounts at some point in the future.
I replaced the pads with new and still not totally happy with them. Every time I see original mounts for sale at a swap meet, I am tempted to buy them. Reading this thread has convinced me to go back to the original mounts at some point in the future.
woofa.express
Well-known member
I replaced the original rear mounts with floats and vibration was eliminated. This was in my ute (pickup) No longer did I get tingly hands when driving. Naturally I am delighted.
The other vehicles have no vibration thus they remain original.
The other vehicles have no vibration thus they remain original.