Float-A-Motor vs original.

The Float-A-Motor came out after the cars were a few decades old. By that time the original rubber pads in the original motor mounts had turned to concrete. The Float-A-Motor solved a problem that was caused by lack of proper maintenance. If you go back to stock, replace the rubber pads at the frame and use new hardware.
 
In the Float-A-Motor System, the front mount is the engine's structural mount and it mimics the Model B's front mount. The vertical Float-A-Motor mounts at the flywheel housing react the engine's torque. The aft Float-A-Motor mount limits the engine's vertical motion which pivots about the front mount. To evaluate the Float-A-Motor System, the Model "A" needs to have all of the mounts. Many Model A's just have the mounts on the flywheel housing which is a poor practice.
In the stock Model "A" engine mount system, the front mount is a non-structural vibration damper, the flywheel housing mounts are structural and they react the engine's torque and are the pivot points for for seesaw motion. The early 1928 cars had another mount behind the transmission that limited the pivoting motion about the flywheel mounts.
 
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My uncle parked his A in 1954,to serve in the Marines and then to college.It had floaters on it.He gave it to me in 68,when I was 12,and I still drive it with the same mounts.I have replaced the rubbers a couple of times in it.I never saw the B type fronts used until later years,the last 25 or so anyway.They never came as part of the floater kits.I can't recall noticing any difference in driving.I've had clutches chatter from loose floaters,and I've had clutches chatter from loose stock mounts.I have three A's on the road right now with floaters,none chatter.I have a bunch of stock mounts around,I just see no reason to bother with changing them.Only one has the rear trans stabilizer,but I have some for the other cars,been planning to put them in for over 10 years.
 
My 1930 Sport Coupe has the Float-a-Motor mounts. I’ve noticed that the crankshaft ratchet nut doesn’t line up with the hole in the front of the car, so the OEM crank wrench won’t slide in to the ratchet nut. It’s like the engine is tilted back some and the crank pulley is about an inch too high.

Think the Float-a-Motor mounts have thrown off the alignment?
 
My 1930 Sport Coupe has the Float-a-Motor mounts. I’ve noticed that the crankshaft ratchet nut doesn’t line up with the hole in the front of the car, so the OEM crank wrench won’t slide in to the ratchet nut. It’s like the engine is tilted back some and the crank pulley is about an inch too high.

Think the Float-a-Motor mounts have thrown off the alignment?


Smithrob, our '28 Roadster was the exact same way. It did turn out to be the Float A Motors the last guy installed. I've never had a problem before on any other Model A's with them, just that '28:eek:
 
One thing you might consider Master Cylinder is the thickness of the L-shaped rubber piece of the original motor mounts. In the past vendors have sold this when it is several tens of thousands thicker than the originals were. I think that is why many have had to use frame spreaders to install the engine.
 
Is the rear trans stabilizer available to purchase without the motor mount?
I have an early 1928 with the original front solid-mount and the float a motor. Will the rear trans stabilizer make any difference to the problems described above?
 
Is the rear trans stabilizer available to purchase without the motor mount?
I have an early 1928 with the original front solid-mount and the float a motor. Will the rear trans stabilizer make any difference to the problems described above?

They are not available as a stand alone. If as many as Marshall attests, it should be too hard to find one that was not installed. Try e-bay.
 
Is there an advantage/disadvantage of having Float-A-Motor vs original rear motor mounts?

My car came with Float-A-Motor mounts when i bought it and I am considering switching back to original.

Ford Barns search engine is not the best. If this has already been discussed, can someone direct me to the correct thread?

All opinions accepted from "That's a great idea!" to "Is you crazy?". Thanks

Just some of my thoughts.... (Other's mileage may vary!! :rolleyes:)


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2245067&postcount=5


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2173882&postcount=9

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1858805&postcount=18


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1732235&postcount=12


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1151096&postcount=26
 
Thanks Jeff.
did you just leave it? Or try and make any adjustments?


Actually-- the car had to be sold to settle my Dad's estate so it went to the next guy... I told him about it he said he was going to try switching back to the solid mounts and I never heard back from him again.


I tried contacting him on something else and no response.


I guess maybe he was just a flipper.
 
Thanks Jeff.
did you just leave it? Or try and make any adjustments?

I had the same issue with the Float a Motor system. It seemed to throw the alignment of the engine off so that the crank no longer lined up and the pedals were all off as well. After some fiddling around with it, I gave up and went back to the original mounts. I didn't find much (if any) improvement with the FM system anyway.
 
Received my mounts and parts from Bert's.

589019


Question? In the "Red Book" it sez to remove the right angle of the pad? Is this correct?

589020
 

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I bought a car with Float-A-Motor mounts in it. The rubber was cracked and I figured if they cracked once they're going to crack again. I made new replacements out of delron and have had no problems for the past 20 yrs.
And growing up we had a kid in the neighborhood with the last name of Lipshitz....
 
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