Float-A-Motor vs original.

The Master Cylinder

The Master Cylinder

Well-known member
Is there an advantage/disadvantage of having Float-A-Motor vs original rear motor mounts?

My car came with Float-A-Motor mounts when i bought it and I am considering switching back to original.

Ford Barns search engine is not the best. If this has already been discussed, can someone direct me to the correct thread?

All opinions accepted from "That's a great idea!" to "Is you crazy?". Thanks
 
Last edited:
I had the same situation when I bought my '30 tudor. Clutch chatter was bad so after checking everything else, I replaced the rear mounts with the original type. This helped a lot but the real cure was when I replaced the stock clutch with a diaphragm clutch.
 
Rubber gets hard with either mount, if you’re having issues try new biscuits. Didn’t Ford go to the float a motor style mounts in 32 ?! The original mounts can be a pain to replace the rubber !
 
My '31 came with FAM. On the '30 that I am restoring I'm putting in original mounts to try to stiffen up the car. FAMs need to be adjusted periodically and the rubbers replaced to be the most effective.
 
JayJay said:
My '31 came with FAM. On the '30 that I am restoring I'm putting in original mounts to try to stiffen up the car. FAMs need to be adjusted periodically and the rubbers replaced to be the most effective.
Click to expand...

I think that is what I am looking for " to try to stiffen up the car." For example, when I let off the gas, the drivetrain seems to shift forward a little. I tried "adjusting" them, to no avail.
 
As I recently posted in a different discussion thread, if you are missing the rear transmission yoke that comes with the FOM kit, the engine is unsupported in the rear and will "rock" as you brake or slow down, as well as when you take off from a standing stop. Most of the installed FOM kits I see are missing this important component. A Model A I am working on for a friend was missing this rear yoke, so I advertised for one here. I think I received four or five replies offering me this piece. Problem solved.
Before you give up on the FOM's in your car, find and install this rear transmission yoke and you will instantly feel a difference when you brake and take off from a stoplight. If not, the rubber donuts in the side mounts and the rectangular rubber block in the rear mount may be too hard and should be replaced to restore the idea behind having a "floating" engine in the first place. I am still a firm believer in the original steel rear mounts, but if your car already has FOM's anyway, ensuring that the rear yoke is present and installed properly will make all the difference in the world for engine stability in the chassis. The FOM kit was designed to provide a three-point mounting in addition to the standard front motor mount yoke and springs. An incomplete kit cannot do the job it was designed to do.
Marshall
 

Attachments

  • Crummy_Rear FOM transmission yoke and rubber block.jpg
    Crummy_Rear FOM transmission yoke and rubber block.jpg
    66.2 KB · Views: 55
  • Crummy_FOM rear transmission yoke in place.jpg
    Crummy_FOM rear transmission yoke in place.jpg
    43 KB · Views: 77
Thank you Marshall. Ido have the have the rear transmission yoke. All the rubbers are less than a year old.

I like the title of your picture, "Crummy_FOM rear transmission yoke in place.jpg". haha.
 
"I like the title of your picture, "CrummyFOM rear transmission yoke in place.jpg". haha."

Actually, that's the last name of the car's owner, not necessarily my opinion of FOM's. :)
M.
 
I have had FOMs in two of my cars and I notice those cars are "mushy" to drive and their road holding is not as good as the ones with solid mounts. That got me thinking and I'm certain that the reason is that FOMs are not able to hold the engine still in the chassis. When I turn the steering wheel, the engine wants to keep going the way it was (Newton had something to say about that). Let's say I want to turn right so I turn the wheel to the right and the car starts to turn. The engine wants to keep going straight ahead so it moves tothe right within the chassis. With the front A frame secured at the bell housing which wants to move towards the left of the chassis.The front axle is turned to the right, adding to the steering. The stays for the rear axle attach near the front of the torque tube and they are also moved to the left causing the rear axle to also try to steer the car even more to the right. These two things create a "feedback" situation but if the road is a bit bumpy, all bets are off. Just hang on and hope.
The solid mounts make the chassis more rigid and prevent that "self steering" I mentioned above. The result is a far more predictable and controlable experience.
IMO, if the FOMs were installed to soften vibrations, fix the problem starting with the rubber pads under the solid mounts. I have also found that a half decently balanced engine makes a world of difference, so does a harmonic balancer.
 
"His last name is Crummy??"

With a last name as ridiculous as mine, I'm in no position to be casting aspersions on someone else's family name, something none of us has any control over choosing. :)
Marshall V. DAUT (pronounced "doubt". Can it get any more ridiculous than THAT???)
 
Synchro909 said:
I have had FOMs in two of my cars and I notice those cars are "mushy" to drive and their road holding is not as good as the ones with solid mounts.
Click to expand...

Mushy... That is the perfect description of how it feels.

Synchro909 said:
I have also found that a half decently balanced engine makes a world of difference, so does a harmonic balancer.
Click to expand...

I do have a balanced engine (tho not counter balanced) and a Murray Horn balancer.
 
"Mushy... That is the perfect description of how it feels."

You are NOT going to believe this, but my nickname since 8th Grade History Class has been "Mushy", bestowed upon me by Mr. Lowe, our teacher. Yup - "Mushy Marshall" it's been since 1962. I seem to be plagued with ridiculous names. Don't even THINK about asking me what my middle initial "V" stands for!!!
M.
 
The Master Cylinder said:
Mushy... That is the perfect description of how it feels.



I do have a balanced engine (though not counter balanced) and a Murray Horn balancer.[/QUOTE

A very good start! If you're unsure about what to do, I suggest asking someone who has a newish set of original style pads under their original mpunts what they think of it - even see if you can go for a ride in such a car.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for your input and helping me decide. I think I have a set of original mounts lined up as of this evening and have ordered the rubber pads. I will keep y'all posted.
 
The Master Cylinder said:
His last name is Crummy?? :eek::eek:
Click to expand...


Yeah--- Dat be me!! It's a pseudonmy!! (sp)


As an a-side.... Marshall has literally saved my life on this car, rebuilding EVERYTHING the last idiot did to the car mechanically... everything and I mean EVERYTHING was screwed up BIG time from a guy from the 70's who sold himself as a Model A Ford 'restorer'. He was an idiot it is a miracle no one was killed driving this car. Marshall has it sorted out so well that Henry Ford His-SELF would be a proud 'un!!!

Back on Float A Motors, I think it was Paul Shinn who mentioned in one of his videos that the original solid motor mounts added rigidity to the Model A frame. Makes sense!

Keep on Model A'in boys!! Like the Doo Dah Man of the 70's that Kept On Truckin':)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top