Float-A-Motor bolt tightness

Synchro909 said:
When I installed the FAMs on my first A, the rubber block in the third mount (on the cross member) was too small. It fell out onto the road very soon after. I knew immediately when it went and the car would shudder unbelievably when I engaged the clutch in reverse.:eek:

Right from the very first sight of a FAM, I thought they were poorly designed because they give little or no "drive", as has been observed above. I've seen a better arrangement made by an owner that involved a piece of angle iron and "L" shaped pads with thinner rubber in the vertical plane to transfer the drive to the chassis.
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Mine was a very tight fit. I thought for a while that I would have cut the rubber thinner but I finally got installed after loosening the rear motor mount a jacking the transmission a little higher.


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johnr6776@gmail.com said:
There is something else wrong. Float a Motor mount would not cause this. Did you use the Float a Motor piece that holds up the transmission?

I used the front Float A Motor mount as well. The roaster has a nice firm feel but I'm not sure that it is worth the trouble of installing it.


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I must add that maybe something else is wrong, but I did notice that my choke rod fit up to the carburetor GAV perfectly where before the FAM was installed, it did not line up perfectly. Seems the angle of the motor was changed with the FAM's and the shimmy started there after. Could the position of the wishbone cause a problem in the front end geometry and start this?
 
Dino's A said:
I must add that maybe something else is wrong, but I did notice that my choke rod fit up to the carburetor GAV perfectly where before the FAM was installed, it did not line up perfectly. Seems the angle of the motor was changed with the FAM's and the shimmy started there after. Could the position of the wishbone cause a problem in the front end geometry and start this?
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Most definitely
 
Hello Mike

I appreciate your technical post. Too bad the Float-A-Motor company does't provide any information like this.

My question is how many turns on left and right sides would you suggest for a 40 hp engine vs 75 hp? Based on the 35 h.p. difference would you tighten the left side 1.06 turns and .40 on the right side or am I way off base?

Johnr


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We tried about 1 turn just passed the top metal disk not moving and about 1/2 to 3/4 on the passenger side.. All with new rubber donuts, etc. There is some trial and error, which is made a little easier with nylock nuts. A little firmer may be better to add "drive" support and no engine rocking.
 
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