Fleathead Engine Stands

So what is the angle on these adapters? If you build one, either by cutting the tube at an angle, or by using angle iron, you want the engine to mount up flat when you look across the top or the bottom of it. It it a 45 degree angle from vertical on the adapter face, or some other angle???
 
It's hard to believe that only using four exhaust bolt holes is stronger than six bell housing bolts???
I just made an adapter for an extra stand I had that will bolt to the bell housing mount holes on a 49-53 motor.
Is this going to have a chance of breaking the block?
 
Here's a picture of my AMMCO stand. I've had it for about 40 years. I've built some nice flatheads on it. I plan to paint it and then get a flathead to mount on it. Will repost pictures once I get the stand painted. Does anyone know for sure what color it was originally? By the looks of it I think it was blue, but can't be sure.
 

Attachments

  • Top (515 x 532).jpg
    Top (515 x 532).jpg
    74.5 KB · Views: 268
  • Top-2 (604 x 422).jpg
    Top-2 (604 x 422).jpg
    88.8 KB · Views: 213
  • Top-1 (608 x 406).jpg
    Top-1 (608 x 406).jpg
    52.3 KB · Views: 202
The late blocks - the ones without the cast on bell housing - will be fine. It's not the strength of the bolts that matters, it's the strength of the casting. The bell housing part of the early style block castings is somewhat thin compared to the weight being supported and the length of the effective lever arm.
 
daveg2 said:
Here's a picture of my AMMCO stand. I've had it for about 40 years. I've built some nice flatheads on it. I plan to paint it and then get a flathead to mount on it. Will repost pictures once I get the stand painted. Does anyone know for sure what color it was originally? By the looks of it I think it was blue, but can't be sure.
Click to expand...


Dang, that's really cool. Should put an electric motor on it so a flathead would spin around it stand's uprights.
 
southfork said:
So what is the angle on these adapters? If you build one, either by cutting the tube at an angle, or by using angle iron, you want the engine to mount up flat when you look across the top or the bottom of it. It it a 45 degree angle from vertical on the adapter face, or some other angle???
Click to expand...


i drilled mine and mounted it to the engine and then welded it to the mounting plate.

00000110.jpg


00000105.jpg






00000113.jpg


IMG_4538.jpg
 
I modified the base of an engine stand I found in the trash for my KRW stand, the wide stance makes it very stable.
 

Attachments

  • card1 043.jpg
    card1 043.jpg
    62.4 KB · Views: 127
Hi All.. I am new to the forum, but thought some of you may be interested in this.

I am cleaning out my barn, and it is time to sell my K R Wilson engine stand. It is missing the tool tray, but does have the rolling base, and an extra long u-channel for even more stability. Has a home-made mounting plate for muscle car work.

It's been a good friend to me, so I'd like it to go to a good home. I'll post more detail in the SwapMeet section.

Gary

wilson_stand1_LR.jpg
 
Ralph Moore said:
It's hard to believe that only using four exhaust bolt holes is stronger than six bell housing bolts???
I just made an adapter for an extra stand I had that will bolt to the bell housing mount holes on a 49-53 motor.
Is this going to have a chance of breaking the block?
Click to expand...


It's not so much that four exhaust bolts are stronger, it's that when a flathead is "hung" by the bell, that is a lot of weight trying to pull it downward and thus putting a lot of torque on the bell housing.

I've heard and seen a more than few flathead with broken bells because they were hung this way. Of course, others have hung a flathead this way for years without issue.
 
this has been a great post-loved the link to KR Wilson and reading about him and the business. I think his tools were so good because he understood the problems that needed to be solved.
 
DSCN2378 - 02.jpg

DSCN2379 - 02.jpg

DSCN2380.jpg

These are pictures of my test stand. I have the KRW stand complete also but that is for hanging and working on the engines. My KRW has heavy square "U" channels screwed to the base of the KRW and is wheeled. The screws / bolts are the Allen head, countersunk type. My third is a short wheeled stand for moving the engines around the shop with.
 
I use this for building top end and short test for leaks, carb setup and timing.
 

Attachments

  • 102_0386.jpg
    102_0386.jpg
    92.6 KB · Views: 139
So again, the late style (non-integrated bell housing) engines will be fine when mounted in a traditional position? You have me worried as I put mine on a stand yesterday..
 
I've seen pictures of Bishop's amazing stand...it was designed specifically with his porting interests in mind, and essentially allows all cuts to be made in about the same position and direction...no weird anles to be ground while bent over and peering upward! It somehow reminds me of a WWII ball turret mount.
I like the Clayborn for compactness and excellent access to everything; its only weakness is that it has a narrow stance and so might be troublesome when using a KD valve bar on a totally stuck guide. Not a problem if you have more than brute force tools and skills for the guides...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top