Flathead VH engine cradle or dollie plans?

[barnfind]

If you are determined to make your own cradle/engine dolly, I use the engine stands from HF that have 4 casters and 2 legs and are halfway done and
Cost less than buying the materials.

I would probably just buy Stumpy's now though.

 

[steve hackel]

I have been away all day so I could not respond to any of these. I believe this is a 49 to 50 Mercury flat head, rebuilt, hopped up & modified, came out of a pick up truck and has been in storage for about 20+ years..... A good friend is now in the process of divorce after 40 years of conflict, and wants to clean out the barn & shop; I remember seeing this about 2 years ago when I delivered a rebuilt fork lift to him that I had done and now he is returning the favor. From memory, the pumps are on it, so is the starter, but that and the bell housing could be removed - wrapped in plastic and cosmoline, even the carbs & air cleaner are on this with the distributor & wiring also installed - headers can also be removed for transport. I figured that if I needed to make this journey and then have it in the garage till I an swap out the motor from my own car, a good dollie would make perfect sense. I have time for this, I just needed to do some research on the subject and have it built for a short notice trip. Thanks

 

[JSeery]

For the front I would use the motor mounts on the water pumps. If the bellhousing is on it, it is going to depend on the bellhousing. But, it would be easy (and probably the best) to use the bellhousing as the rear mount. This may not be your preferred approach, but I would use Marts approach. A 4x4 for the front and the back and a couple of 2x4 blocks say 6 or 8 inches long for the front (I would have 4 on hand) and a couple of 2x4s say 18 inches long for the rear. You need to block the front under the motor mounts high enough to clear the crankshaft pulley. You need a drill, and a couple of lag bolts with washers. For the rear stack up enough 2x4s on top of the 4x4 to somewhat level the engine out and again screw it together. Then when you get it home you can built a more sophisticated cradle.

If you wanted to get fancy you could also run a 2x4 front to back on each side of the engine to tie the 4x4s together.

 

[Ross F-1]

Here is the rear face drilling for an 8BA/8RT/EAB, courtesy of a JWL post a long time ago. Won't work with a starter on tho.

 

[JSeery]

With the bellhousing it is going to depend on the style that is on there. If it is one of the round ring style it may need an L bracket. If it is one of the flat-bottom style it would set directly on the blocks.

 

[3twinridges]

I have my engine sitting on a pallet with casters bolted to the bottom, a piece of angled steel attached to the bell housing screwed to the pallet, and stacks of 2x8's up front on the water pumps. Whole thing cost me about $40. I can move it around as needed and it's plenty sturdy.

 

[A bones]

For the front I would use the motor mounts on the water pumps. This may not be your preferred approach, but I would use Marts approach. A 4x4 for the front and the back and a couple of 2x4 blocks say 6 or 8 inches long for the front (I would have 4 on hand) and a couple of 2x4s say 18 inches long for the rear.
If you wanted to get fancy you could also run a 2x4 front to back on each side of the engine to tie the 4x4s together.

JSeery, don't want to sidetrack this thread, bu..ut after considering a PM I figure why not. Staring at your cradle sketch, I can tell you are not only vastly experienced, always helpful. On top of this, you are obviously very talented to throw up a free-hand drawing just like that. Thank You for all you do.