flathead valve size question

5

52fordv8

Member
i got 4 problem valves in the flathead im working on the rest are tight and working great but 4 are beyond stuck in the guides so going to replace them . and i measured then from the edge of valve to the end of stem is 4.3/4 inches . and from the back of the valve to the end of the stem its 4.1/2 so heres my thing i tryed to get ahold of van plets today and never did get threw . they have 2 listing on valves one is 4.49 1932-50 . and the other one is 4.54 inches and its 1951-53 im assuming i need the 51-53 ???? its stock valves . and i know to order 4 one piece guides just have the question on the 2 valve sizes . sry but im learning :)
 
You don't say what year your engine is.
Early valves have 5/16 stems with mushroom ends and use 2 piece guides.
Late one have 11/32 stems with straight ends and use one piece guides.
 
How many pieces are there in the spring retainer --one piece with a slot fit over the mushroom end, one retainer with 2 keepers --or a 2 piece retainer with 2 keepers
 
"Late one have 11/32 stems with straight ends and use one piece guides."

But.... those late valves come in two different configurations. Whilst they initially look alike, the valves that operate with valve rotators actually have a different part number . The difference is in the location of the retainer grooves on the stem.
 
These are the two late-style valves. Lower is the rotator-style with shorter springs.
 

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i got 4 of these im going to have to replace . there beyond stuck in the guides . so thats what im wainting to know what size the valves are . all the other valves in the engine are working great no issues . just these 4 that i pulled out these 4 the whole thing was movin . i do know there one piece guides and not to long springs . and has a cup and the lock goes on the end cause after this pic was taken i took my valve spring compressor and removed all the springs and etc .
 
52fordv8 said:
here is a pic of one of my valve assemblies .
Click to expand...

You have the latest style with the rotators and shorter springs. '51 to '53.

Why don't you take those apart and clean them up on a wire wheel. If they aren't burnt they will be fine with some lapping.
 
well i would but these 4 are stuck in the guides awfull bad ive used sea foam and marvel mystery oil for over a week now and they wont move a bit with out hitting them of the guides with a hammer and i kn if u do that and mess anything up the valve will be scared and mess up the guide will be scared up . . so i was just wanting to kn what size they are so i can order some from van plets thye have them listed 4/54 and 4.49 and i was confused as to whaich ones was which but if u say there later style 51-53 they have them for 10.00 each and the other ones i think was 49-50 and they was 8.95 each the springs and all feel great so i was going to reuse them and just order 4 new valves and 4 new guides and reassemble them and out them back in the motor
 
My curiosity wouldn't let me give up. The guide is toast, ok. Put the assembly in a vice, by grabbing the guide. Rap on the valve stem with brass hammer. It'll break loose. Compress the spring and remove the keepers. Then you can work the valve free. Check for condition.
 
i guess it would be cheaper to just buy 4 new guides and save the valves from the pic up above does the valves look like they are any good i know they have some carbon on the back of them as u can see but none of them are bent or have frey marks in them or etc and the tops are nice and shinny and says ford on them .
 
Whether you buy new guides or reuse those (if they are reusable), I would get a shop to put in some bronze liners.

At least those 4 will never "hang" again. We bronze all 16 and haven't had a single "hanger" since then!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If you can remove the existing valves and the guides aren't destroyed, chances are good they will work with the liners.
 

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yeah i have read something on the hamb about getting bronze sleeves put in them says they will never stick again thats a pretty awesome thing to invest in
 
If you use a punch, you should be able to free up the valves without bending them. They may be reuseable.
I would knurl the guides, that will leave a good finish on the inside. Solvent and a brush in a drill- clean them out well...
I do this on new guides cause it will help hold a bit of oil, and prevent seizing...

When I worked in a machine shop I saw a head with worn bronze liners, and I didn't like it.
Karl
 
Karl Wolf said:
If you use a punch, you should be able to free up the valves without bending them. They may be reuseable.
I would knurl the guides, that will leave a good finish on the inside. Solvent and a brush in a drill- clean them out well...
I do this on new guides cause it will help hold a bit of oil, and prevent seizing...

When I worked in a machine shop I saw a head with worn bronze liners, and I didn't like it.
Karl
Click to expand...

Knurling is also used to bring an out of spec guide (loose) back in spec.

Knurling reduces the inside diameter of the guide, then ream to proper size. Plus it helps hold oil like Karl said, and there's less chance of a valve hanging.

Most shops around here don't even do this anymore. They automatically want to sell you bronze guides.
 
quick question here what is the differnnce in the valves in the pic on the engine where u see there completely smooth on top and the ford is like engraved in them . and the other engine the valves has ford on them and there raised letters and in the center of the valves they both measure the same and both are the rotator type as i was informed is what i have in the engine im currently working on just worndering cause can i use a valve like this in my engine now . if so i can just order 4 new guides .
 

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I answered you PM you sent. Dished valve is intake. Smooth is exhaust. Exhausts can be used in both in and ex.
 
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