Flathead to T5 help needed

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Dreasoner

Junior Member
Hello guys! I am new to the forum but am in need of some help with my Flathead. This is a 1953 f100 that I am trying to put a t5 behind. Speedway recommend the adapter pictured but when I tried to install it this weekend my input shaft is too short. The splines just touch the clutch and I'm sure it is not in the pilot. The Trans is out of a 85 s10, and is rebuilt. I tried finding a longer input shaft but no luck.

I want to keep bellhousing because it is my rear mounts but I am open to ideas. I have a Bridgeport Mill and thinking about trying to thin up the adapter.

My transmission is 7.125 from the flange to pilot. I measures from the inside of the pilot bearing to the outside of the adapter, 7.375. But it needs more clutch spline engagement than the difference.

Do I need a different adapter?

I searched but found nothing on a truck bellhousing.
 

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I'd be surprised if you can retain the stock BH. It's about an inch deeper than earlier (48 - 52) truck BH's, I don't see how you could make that up.
 
Looking at the tech tips on Speedways site, it states that you need to use the 48-52 truck bell housing with an 8BA.
T-5%20and%20Adapter%20Tech%20Tips.jpg
 
As I recall '53 F100s are a different animal because they were designed around the new Y-block overhead, but that motor wasn't ready yet, so they used the Flathead for one more year, which led to some odd mounts, etc. I'm sure someone else out there has been successful with the swap youre trying to do.
 
Are you saying you need .250 less? Then I would mill .125 off both sides, .125 should'nt
bother anything.
 
Dreasoner,
I'm curious what the overall depth of that '53 truck bell is, (without the adapter) compared to '49-'53 Ford car bells on hand that measure about 6 1/8". :)
 
Last edited:
V8 Bob said:
Dreasoner,
I'm curious what the overall depth of that '53 truck bell is, (without the adapter) compared to '49-'53 Ford car bells on hand that measure about 6 1/8". :)
Click to expand...

I would have to measure it, out of town for the week. I hooked a rod on the inside of the pilot bearing and got the 7.375 but typically people cut the tip off the input shaft to get the splines engaged.

I am waiting on a Speedway Flathead tech to call me back. I may need to get the cast iron earlier truck bellhousing that is about 3" think and get the Speedway aluminum housing. I see they have the legs cast in that looks like the motor mount bosses but they are not drilled.

Someone has to have done this on a 53...
 
GreenMonster48 said:
As I recall '53 F100s are a different animal because they were designed around the new Y-block overhead, but that motor wasn't ready yet, so they used the Flathead for one more year, which led to some odd mounts, etc. I'm sure someone else out there has been successful with the swap youre trying to do.
Click to expand...

I like the look of my bellhousing, I would like to keep as stock of look as possible. I think you're right the 53 is an odd duck.
 
Ol' Ron said:
I think a passengr car bell will work, that's what I used. adapter is 11/16 thick
Click to expand...
I am doing a 53 pick up and am going t-5 also. This is what I have found so far. Because the 53 cast bell is deeper than the car style the s10 t-5 will not work with the stock truck bell because the input shaft is too short. But a mustang t5 will work . The shaft is the right length. the bottom two bolt holes line up perfect. The input and throw out bearings are parts store ford aswell as the clutch and pressure plate. For the top two bolt holes one on the right needs drilling and taping the one on the left needs welding on the cast bell to use this last bolt.Now as stated before the mustang shifter is too far back and interferes with the seat. So you need the tail shaft housing from the s10 chevy to swap with the ford housing and make that work.I am leaning towards the car stamped steel bell and adapter plate, and making up the mounts to bolt or weld on as I already have an s10 trans .Flathead Jack has adapters for many t-5 to flathead swaps. Hope I havnt just confussed you .
 
I am using a custom built clutch plate that spaces the center about 1/2" toward the trans. Stock flattie plate wont work. Also has different splines.
 
I think if you put motor mounts up front like 52 and trans held up in center in back with half bell.
I think you could make your own rear engine mount near back of engine and keep the center mount. The clutch linage will be a problem.
 
I don't want to cut and weld on my frame, just had it blasted and I painted it with Por15. I am leaning towards getting the cast truck short bellhousing, the Speedway bellhousing, and getting it adapted to my original mounts. I want it look as stock as possible.
 
probably the steel bell housing would be better you could weld some mounts on it.
The clutch linkage will need some changes.
 
On those truck bells no adaptor needed weld a couple thick lugs where needed drill and tap the chev bolt patteren and finally mill 1/8 of the surface that should give enough purchase
 
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