Flathead Teds brake floater

jackball

jackball

Member
I added this "option" to my 31 and the breaking go worse in stead of better.
Any words of wisdom berfor I rip it out and chunk it?!!
 
First,if things are right,you don't NEED it.They do work nice though when properly set up.If the brakes were bad before,they have to be brought up to snuff before you install the floaters.It is not a magic bullet to cover up poor brake parts.It sounds as if you have something wrong in there.I've looked at cars where people have installed them,then complained the brakes were no better.They tried to get around fixing things that needed fixing by buying the $100.fix.Everything has to be correct for it to work as it should.VERY important to arc the shoes,center the rears using the special pins he sells,make sure the cotter pins don't hang up,making sure you have the correct angle on the front lever before you even start,all of the things that have to be done on the A brakes anyway.
 
They work very well when installed correctly provided the brake system is in good shape and the shoes have been arced to fit the drums. There is additional information available that may be helpful to you.

Go to www.ocmafc.com. In the left menu click on "tech articles". It will bring up a new menu. There are two articles posted that appeared in Model A Times, and have been re-printed with the permission of John LaVoy. Also, at the top of the tech menu is my name, click on it and it will bring up another menu of articles. One is about the installation of Ted's floaters.

Tom Endy
 
I put the flat head teds floaters on two cars, they are the best thing i have added. When installed and adjusted correct they are like modern brakes. I have bought a car with floaters already installed. And am now reworking them. Dont take them off when you get them right you will never go back.
 
email Ted.

He's on the Far Side of the World. If you email him at the close of your day, you will probably find his response waiting for you upon the resumption of your work day.

I did it, and figured out something that was not well explained in the original instructions.

"Model A Times" did a nice job of reporting on the floaters, and re-writing the instructions for the American market.

If your brakes are in good condition, you may notice that you can brake the car with much less pedal effort than pre-floaters. If your brakes aren't up to snuff, you'll have a mess.

If you brakes are that bad, I might recommend taking the Floaters out, and taking everything up to Bentley's in Maysville for a complete and thorough going through. Benny just did the rear brakes on my car, and the fronts in 2007. Stops on a dime. Benny's not too keen on Floaters, believing that a properly set up stock system is more than adequate. Taking the slack out of the rods, adjusting the cross shaft, etc.

http://mymodela.com/Brakes.html
 
I repaired a set on a 30 roadster that also had a modern transmission in it. Having to go back through and repair all the work that had been done incorrectly took a lot longer than repairing standard brakes and they didn't seem much better than a original brake job that's done right
 
My understanding is that the advantages of Flathead Ted's Floaters are that the brakes are (a) self-energizing and (b) self-centering. The first reduces braking effort and the second would help maintain equal braking pressure on each shoe within a brake unit. Both are worthy goals, but seems to me that neither would cause brakes with the kit to out-brake newly and properly restored Henry-designed brakes. I suspect that the advantage emerges over time. Not trying to hijack this thread, but am wondering if these observations seem appropriate.
 
Pilotdave you are exactly right, which is why I put them on a car with worn out brake tracks, flat-spotted roller pins, and uneven lining wear due to mis-centered shoes.

Now I have excellent brakes until time permits me to restore all to original condition.
 
I installed them on my RPU and found it was a six beer job just to read the directions. If only they had some photos or diagrams. Finally understood them and got them installed.
Rules to live by:
1. Make sure shoes are arched
2. Make sure all parts function as they should, with nothing hanging up.
3. Install the shoe pivot pins in backwards as in the directions.
Though my pickup doesn't have the motor installed yet and I can't test them yet, everyone who has installed a set swears by them, not at them. Check your installation for correctness.
 
The only thing I can think of, is the shoes are not radius properly. As soon as I get a chance I will check that.
 
I have heard, maybe here at Fordbarn, that they have to bed in over 100 miles or so to be fully effective. I have the kit and intend to install it this spring or summer.
 
If bently talks you into taking them off, you have a buyer for them . Pm me . They are the best option you can put on a modle a.
 
jackball said:
If all else fails I will go to Bentleys
Thanks for all of your input.
Jack
Click to expand...


Always a nice trip. He's always got some nice eye candy in the shops. A few weeks back it was a pair of '29 Standard Roadsters and the Ramblin' 'Reck.

Mike had the raffled off Tudor and a Mail Truck at the store.

If I lived any closer, he'd probably have to run me off for hanging around all the time.
 
They are a bit tricky to set up but well worth the effort.

Shoes must be arched perfectly

I was finding that the ends of the linings had to be chamfered as they tended to grab

Use a brake centering tool to check them before putting the drums on

Make sure your drums are round and centered

They definately need to bed in for 100 miles

Use Ted's new roller pins instead of messing around with the cotter pins on the fronts. (see his website for the deluxe kit)http://www.flatheadted.com/modules.php?name=ShoppingSystem&op=product&prodcode=DEADSTOPDELUXE

Do the fronts first. Get them working properly and seated in and then tackle the backs.

Follow the instructions found on http://www.ocmafc.org/

Email Ted - he is very helpful

Look for previous posts on the subject in this forum. There is a lot of good information discussing this topic and the learnings that people have had. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31691
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20933

Hope this helps.
 
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While stock brakes properly rebuilt will work very well,I like the reduced pedal pressure that teds floaters offers.At 73, it makes it easier to drive my A along with a longer clutch release arm.
 
Went to "Mikes" Picked up all 4 new brake drums and installed. Problem solved.
Thanks for all of your help.
Jack
 
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