Flathead Sleeve Puller

TomT/Williamsburg

TomT/Williamsburg

Well-known member
OK gents, I have a tool and that supposedly will, when properly used, remove a sleeve in a flattie and then insert the new one. It's been awhile since I've opened the metal case it comes in but it has different size disks and some other items to probably press fit in/out cylinder sleeves. I'll get the directions tonight and scan them in tomorrow for all to peruse.

My question is has anyone ever used a tool like this? I have a 39 Ford motor with a fresh valve job, 3/4 cam, but the sleeves are showing a slight ridge at the top. I thought of running it this way but I do have another set of sleeves and I figured with this tool and some new rings, I could have a pretty fresh engine. This tool, from what I understand, can be sued to remove then reinsert sleeves without having to disturb the valve train?

Any help on this would be appreciated.
 
Hello Tom T. I have worked on a lots of different engines. I would not try a sleeve job on a flathead without a person with experence helping me. Have you miked the cylender"s and the pistons? If they are on factory tolarnces I would ridge ream.then do a slight hone to clean the cylender walls. With new rings. Run it. save rhe sleeves for a later time. Just my way of doing things. The sleave job on a Flathead Botheres me because the head gasket is not a full round circle. The valve side of each cylinder is open and I have all wayes ben afrade of a cylender to block leak in this area. I could be wrong. But sometimes flatheads are pickey on some procedures. Talk to Ol Ron.
 
Lyle, The sleeves in those engines are steel sleeves, they are only .040 thick, they don't go into the water, Ford used to make an .083 oversize piston, you could just remove the sleeve and hone the cyl a little and install the .083 pistons. I remove the sleeves and bore another .045 and use std. 3-3/16 pistons. Walt
 
Hay walt. There you go. See I never sleaved a flathead before. That is why it bothered me. I thought that one of you other fellows like Ol Ron might know.You are a good mechanic also.I still would not sleave it unless I had to do it.AJohn ridge reamed and lightly honed one without removing the pistons. Cleaned it out and stuck the heads and intake back on.Run it 3 or 4 times.with out water for a short while let cool, and it has good compression and dont smoke.Probely the best running one I have.Fello that had it could not get it running.(bad distributer and fuel pump)removed the intake lost the carb.Removed the heads. I changed the oil and did a deisel wash removed the pan and cleaned it. It will now be in a 24 Model C Cab truck.
 
Tom, I'd suggest you go ahead and measure the bores in a few places (each cylinder) and see just what you have there. That should help determine whether or not you should (or want to) go to the trouble.

I have used the KRW tools to remove and replace sleeves. It's actually quite easy. If you have the plug gauges, you can easily determine whether or not you've installed the new sleeves correctly.
Also, if you have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, there is little doubt the bores are worn too far to (properly) hone and simply install new rings.
In the last (many) years, I normally do what Waly does. That is, pull the sleeves, bore and replace the pistons. An easy way to get a few more cubes, quick to accomplish and reasonable as well.
I'd like to know how does one cut the ridge of a hardened steel sleeve? Must be one heck of a ridge cutter.
 
If they are the tin sleeves and you want to take them out just run a weld bead down the sleeve let it cool and they will fall out or at most tap out with a light block of wood..Johnny.
 
johnny said:
If they are the tin sleeves and you want to take them out just run a weld bead down the sleeve let it cool and they will fall out or at most tap out with a light block of wood..Johnny.
Click to expand...

Yup works like a charm.

Ronnie
 
The welding trick has always worked for me , I have done it on a lot of engines ,such as Mack diesel etc.my boss many years ago seen me doing it and almost had heart failure
after I explained to him it would work better than destroying the deck surface when a sleeve cant be removed with a puller, Just make a quick pass and try not to penetrate the sleeve to avoid damage to the block!
Good luck
Fordestes
 
Thank you for all your responses, gents. I'm in a quandry and I'm weighing my options as this is all about the avatar's engine having gone south a few weeks ago - bearing shavings int he oil. I also do not want to make this a long process - I really want to get the car back on the road for the summer driving season. My options are:

1 - using this 39 engine "as is" until I have time enough to do one of my other options. I thought I could remove sleeves, re-ring and bearing, and be golden on this one but no luck. I'll post some pics of the "ridge" once I get it rolled out and see what you guys think.
2 - I have a French block and main caps but nothing else - I really would like to build this engine for it but that would take time and money.
3 - once I pull the engine that's gone bad I might be able to do a re-bearing on it and put it back in - this is yet to be determined since I've not had the time to pull it as I'm getting ready for Spring Carlisle (to make the money to repair/replace the engine! Oh boy, it's always something ....).
4 - Finally, I can buy a rebuilt shortblock for around $2700 and go into the hole to do it but that is my shortest turn around time but the most expensive.

Yes, it's the old domino principle but I have no idea which one is going to fall first and then follow that lead.

Presently, the logical first step, knowing what I know now, is to see how bad the present engine is and make a decision from there. BTW, Egge makes the 083 piston and rings so if I was going to use the 39 engine, I could remove the sleeves, hone the cylinders and put in the new pistons - that's another possibility.

Thanks for all your help, boys .... I'll keep you all posted .... as Vic is known to say, "ain't flatheads fun?!" LOL
 
TomT/Williamsburg said:
Thank you for all your responses, gents. I'm in a quandry and I'm weighing my options as this is all about the avatar's engine having gone south a few weeks ago - bearing shavings int he oil. I also do not want to make this a long process - I really want to get the car back on the road for the summer driving season.

1 - using this 39 engine "as is" until I have time enough to do one of my other options. I thought I could remove sleeves, re-ring and bearing, and be golden on this one but no luck. I'll post some pics of the "ridge" once I get it rolled out and see what you guys think.

.... as Vic is known to say, "ain't flatheads fun?!" LOL
Click to expand...

That engine is now on a stand in my garage. All 8 sleeves are removed. Very easy with the tool. There was no ridge to speak of as all the pistons came out very easily. Three of the sleeves had considerable scoring. Now contemplating putting the 8 new sleeves in or buying a new set of pistons. One of my questions is: Were these thin walled sleeved engines more prone to overheating?
 
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