Flathead Question

T

Timstruck

Member
Last fall I purchased a 1936 Pickup. I do not know much about the history but the frame VIN checks out as a '36 and the transmission VIN matches the frame.

A few days ago my son and I started tearing down the engine and I am confused. I'm hoping someone can tell me what it is that I have.

The 21 stud heads are cast iron and are the early type with the water pumps on the front. The block is the mystery. It has the crab style distributor which from my research is for '42-'48 blocks but then those would have 24 stud heads. Also note in the pictures that the block has provision for water pumps in the block.

Is it possible that someone in the past has installed the later distributor? Are the distributors interchangeable through the years?

Sorry, lots of questions...any insight is appreciated.

Tim
 

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Easy to interchange the distributors. In fact most of the external components can be interchanged between different years.
 
Nice flathead. Yep 37, early 38. Waterpump blockoffs. Which means you could also run the later block water pumps if you can find a good pair of 37' 21 heads.

Depending on where you want to go with it, you have a decent 221 with some early 40's changes.
 
Crab distributor and timing plate, which is a great dizzy. Some headers which might actually be 50s aftermarket. They look like Reds from the small pictures.

I'd slow down before ordering parts, you have a lot to think about before that. It might run great as it sits. Have you tried to fire it?

Or maybe you want to go full rebuild?
 
Timstruck said:
So, if ordering parts, should I order for the later years or are the water pumps the only change from 36?
Click to expand...

What kind of parts are you referring to? Internal engine parts would be for the block you have. External parts could be any year that would bolt up. It is going to depend on what you are wanting to archive. If you are wanting it to be original to the year of the body/frame then that would be the year parts you want to use. It you are wanting to up grade different components, than that is what you are going to need. Clear as mud? :)
 
It actually ran decent but the compression was low on a couple cylinders. Turns out the base of a couple studs had rusted and had lifted the head gasket causing low compression. We plan to take the heads to get them lightly surfaced. The studs need to be replaced and I need to research how to remove them without snapping them off in the block. We are also going to replace the intake manifold and rebuild the fuel pump. So, not a major rebuild.

The other thing I want to do is send the distributor out for a rebuild because it seems crazy complicated.
 
Good guy good rep.
http://www.bubbasignition.com/about-us.html

You might be able to mill a little off the heads for compress. Maybe they have already been.

Skip rebuilds the waterpumps also. Good service. My 36 has a 37 motor with headpumps. Mine worked fine so no rebuild.

Sounds like a good plan you have going. Also on my 36 I had what seemed like a bad motor issue, compression 20lbs on one cylinder and ran bad. Turned out to be a burn valve. $7 complete valve setup from a guy here and I've been driving it from 3 yrs now. Not a barnburner but I drive it almost daily in summer.

Enjoy!
 
I guess moving the water pumps up to the block would be better, but I don't believe it would work with the '36 radiator. Trying to keep things stock.
 
Another tidbit about the 37 motor, you have cam bearings (which I think stopped in 35') and insert crank bearings. About mid 36 they went from babbitt bearings to inserts. 36lb motors.

When you pull the intake good chance you have adjustable lifters.
 
I run headpumps on my 36 coupe. It doesn't overheat.

With the heads off now take a long screwdriver or coathanger and flush out the water jackets. Expectantly in the rear of the block. If there is any casting sand left you can flush it out. Will make a world of difference later.

If it's been sitting compression might go up just by running it also.

Depends how deep ya want to go, when you remove the oil pan to clean it out, you can check bearings and piston wall clearances.

But by the looks of what you've done already and the 60s mag wheel in the background of one picture, you no stranger to tearing into something. :)
 
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When rebuilding fuel related components keep in mind current fuel. Need to be sure components are ethanol compatible.
 
Timstruck said:
It actually ran decent but the compression was low on a couple cylinders. Turns out the base of a couple studs had rusted and had lifted the head gasket causing low compression. We plan to take the heads to get them lightly surfaced. The studs need to be replaced and I need to research how to remove them without snapping them off in the block. We are also going to replace the intake manifold and rebuild the fuel pump. So, not a major rebuild.

The other thing I want to do is send the distributor out for a rebuild because it seems crazy complicated.
Click to expand...

You might find a map torch and some pb blaster or even better kroll over a few days will make the studs twist right out. Patience. Heat/spray repeat a couple days. Beats welding a nut and trying to get one that's broken or drilling and tap.
 
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