Flathead project

Being nosey, here...Did you pull the plugs out of the crank, to clean out the sludge, then replace with new plugs? (Few modern machinists know to do that, these days) I recently built a '49 239 and the crank was completely stopped up with asphalt-like crud. I got new plugs from VanPelt. With good oil and semi-full flow filter, the engine should out-last me!

You're doing beautiful work and that sucker should run like the wind! Can't wait to see the end results!
Thanks, Had the block hot dipped before rebuilding it.
 
Testing if this thread is dead or is it me or is it the new server that Ryan has.

Last few weeks, this site has been lousy.
 
Yes, cleaned all the sludge out.
Not to be beating a dead horse here, but your answer isn't clear (at least to me). Tanking engine parts is not the same thing as removing the plugs in the crank and cleaning the passages. Unless the person doing the engine cleaning is familiar with flatheads and flathead cranks this could be easily overlooked. And it can lead to problems after the engine is assembled.
 
Not to be beating a dead horse here, but your answer isn't clear (at least to me). Tanking engine parts is not the same thing as removing the plugs in the crank and cleaning the passages. Unless the person doing the engine cleaning is familiar with flatheads and flathead cranks this could be easily overlooked. And it can lead to problems after the engine is assembled.
OK, I was the one who misunderstood the question. I am not sure if the machine shop did this. This is the first time I have heard about this and I am somewhat concerned now.
 
OK, I was the one who misunderstood the question. I am not sure if the machine shop did this. This is the first time I have heard about this and I am somewhat concerned now.

Look at the sides of a crank throw (in line with the rod journal). You will see what looks like a small freeze plug. This should be obviously new-looking if they were removed and replaced after any accumulated gunk was cleaned out.
 
Just spoke to the person who worked on the motor and I am happy to say that they do remove the plugs to clean out the gunk.
 
Just spoke to the person who worked on the motor and I am happy to say that they do remove the plugs to clean out the gunk.

Good to hear! That stuff dries and hardens, then the hot tank loosens it. If it's not cleaned out, it gets pumped right through the bearings!
 
Started to set the ladder bars into the frame.
 

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Depending on how flat/level a surface you are planning on driving on that type of setup can cause you some problems. Because the rear axle is rigged and can not flex, any rotation (side to side) about the centerline will be resisted by the ladder bars. In order to work properly they would have to rotate at a common point similar to the original ball arrangement. This is the same problem that exist with the tubular front axles and hairpin radius rods.
 
Depending on how flat/level a surface you are planning on driving on that type of setup can cause you some problems. Because the rear axle is rigged and can not flex, any rotation (side to side) about the centerline will be resisted by the ladder bars. In order to work properly they would have to rotate at a common point similar to the original ball arrangement. This is the same problem that exist with the tubular front axles and hairpin radius rods.
Definitely can picture that, is there a setup out there I can use to make the "ball arrangement" work on this setup?
 
I used a large (1") chrome moly heim joint on a car I built years ago. The rear suspension worked very well.
 
There are a lot of different approaches, here are some I like.
 

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There are a lot of different approaches, here are some I like.
I like that ball setup. Is there any place you know of where I can purchase that type of set up? I imagine it will have to be a used item and modified to work in my frame.
Thanks
 
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