Flathead pre-oiler - good, bad and the ugly?

Z

Ziggster

Well-known member
Posted this on the HAMB earlier today, and so far no responses, so decided to post it here as well.

Decided last week to fab up a pre-oiler to use on the first start-up on my C59A. Hoping to start it for the first time in a couple of weeks. Some background. Engine was rebuilt (short block) back in 2019 IIRC. I didn’t get around to doing the final assembly until 2023-2024. I used Permatex Ultra Slick engine assembly lube on stuff I assembled like oil pan pump and cam gear. Has 5 quarts of Lucas 5W-30 Hot Rod oil in the pan.
Since it’s been sitting for so long, thought it would be a good idea to somehow pre-pressurize the internal passages. My understanding with flatheads this is impossible due to the distributor drive config (I put a helmet style on). So, the idea of a pre-oiler. Got this old air tank and modded it. Tank has crude/rust inside so added the Ford style remote oil filter. Now wondering does this make sense. Will the filter trap all the crude inside the tank?
 

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I saw it over there and think it looks good. Face it, a lot of those guys are clueless when it comes to stuff like this, preferring rather Rambler station wagons and clapped out '53 Chevrolets 4 gaters. It's all part of "engaging the next generation".

Your gizmo looks well thought out and should work fine. I doubt if there is a pint of empty space left in the entire lubrication system, so just go easy and stop when you strike oil.
 
Ziggster said:
Posted this on the HAMB earlier today, and so far no responses, so decided to post it here as well.

Decided last week to fab up a pre-oiler to use on the first start-up on my C59A. Hoping to start it for the first time in a couple of weeks. Some background. Engine was rebuilt (short block) back in 2019 IIRC. I didn’t get around to doing the final assembly until 2023-2024. I used Permatex Ultra Slick engine assembly lube on stuff I assembled like oil pan pump and cam gear. Has 5 quarts of Lucas 5W-30 Hot Rod oil in the pan.
Since it’s been sitting for so long, thought it would be a good idea to somehow pre-pressurize the internal passages. My understanding with flatheads this is impossible due to the distributor drive config (I put a helmet style on). So, the idea of a pre-oiler. Got this old air tank and modded it. Tank has crude/rust inside so added the Ford style remote oil filter. Now wondering does this make sense. Will the filter trap all the crude inside the tank?
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Good evening,

Beautiful job o the pre oiler.

But was it necessary? Using good quality assembly lube pretty much eliminates the need for pigging the block,especially if you turn it over til it makes oil pressure. But since you have put in the time to build the pre oiler use it. THe filter will pick up micron sized crud. However what happens if there is enough crud to overwhelm the filter? I'd run a few quarts of Marvel or ATF through it if you haven't done so already to flush it. THen change filters and off you go.

If you paid attention to detail like you did on the oiler when building the engine you should not have a problem. Those engines in stock form are pretty under stressed. You're not building a 650 to 750hp Ford V8 designed to go five hundred miles in the 100* plus heat around Talladega or Daytona at 8000 plus RPM.

My favorite assembly lube is Permatex 81850.

tony
 
A pre oiler is an excellent idea. Prior to starting the Ford flathead engine's I run in our very fast race car I use what's called an Accusump to always first get oil pressure up prior to firing the engine. Its similar to the system you built.
The added bonus to the Accusump system is if there's a loss of oil pressure the charged 3 quart chamber will supply oil to the engine to help it survive.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnieroadster said:
A pre oiler is an excellent idea. Prior to starting the Ford flathead engine's I run in our very fast race car I use what's called an Accusump to always first get oil pressure up prior to firing the engine. Its similar to the system you built.
The added bonus to the Accusump system is if there's a loss of oil pressure the charged 3 quart chamber will supply oil to the engine to help it survive.
Ronnieroadster
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I even pre-oil my mowers before I put them in ignition mode! splash system.
 
A great idea, credit to you. I just made a long funnel that screws into the oil port on the back end of the block, takes about a quart, that takes 20 minutes or so to drain down, then I'll do another quart. Its prolly not filling everything like yours, but makes pressure immediately just cranking it over
 
Thanks for the feedback. Probably overkill, but just a little paranoid. Since I also rebuilt the carb, fuel pump, distributor, and did all the final assembly, chances are it just won’t fire up on the first try. This also has me a bit worried, as not sure if excessive cranking on a fresh engine is detrimental. I’ll flush it out with oil for sure before using it and will check the oil coming out to see how it looks.
On another note, does it matter which of the three passages at the back of the block it connects to? The copper line is connected to a vintage oil pressure gauge.
 
Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE during initial fresh build start-ups, and regular oil changes.
 

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I would think the filter would work, but I'd try it out first and make sure you don't puke fluid out of the top of it (as it is not a full-flow filter, but a drip-feed filter).

I would have used a full-flow filter myself . . . but your system might work?
 
V8 Bob said:
Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE.
Click to expand...

That is a great idea! Cheap and easy to build!
 
Hey Ronnie, that is what we run on the FlatCAD as well . . . nice to know you have pressurized out to the mains before you start a race motor!
 
V8 Bob said:
Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE.
Click to expand...
565079
 
Not to be negative regarding pre-oiler systems ..... My '47 doesn't sit toooo long between usage. The engine is in good condition, has an 80 lb oil pump and at idle RPM its mechanical gauge shows 80 lbs when cold and 20-25 lbs when at running temperature. If it did sit for long I'd put fresh 10w oil in, remove the plugs, squirt some MMO in the cylinders and crank the engine without plugs for a few cycles of at least a minute each AFTER the mechanical oil gauge shows pressure. After starting and running to normal temperature, I'd then change to the usual 10w-30w I use. For short periods of non-use I just crank the engine with ignition off until oil pressure is full up. Stop, let the pressure dispense, then start the engine.
 
V8 Bob said:
Ziggster,
You would be better starting off with a clean pressure vessel, like an inexpensive common garden sprayer, vs one containing "crud/rust". Using a filter is a good, but a standard full flow would allow much higher volume, important when pre-oiling.
Pictured is the one I use on my remote-filtered flatheads and BBFE.
Click to expand...

I had actually thought about that. I think I have one somewhere. lol!
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I would think the filter would work, but I'd try it out first and make sure you don't puke fluid out of the top of it (as it is not a full-flow filter, but a drip-feed filter).

I would have used a full-flow filter myself . . . but your system might work?
Click to expand...

If the stk filter is not a full-flow design, then it’s a non-starter for me using that tank. Will have to rethink this whole setup.
 
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