Flathead filter

I used the full flow system described by JM 35 Sedan in a Canadian block allready had two vertical holes, just drilled and taped 3/8 pipe to plug the cross over 7/16"NF socket head set screw works as the will accept 7/16 tap. My system is 100% filtered a i drilled a hole from rear cam bearing down to the rear main, used the same size as the other oil passages, removed the fuel pump pushrod bushing and pluged hole. Put a peice of 1/4" fod into orig. oil passage from pump to the bearing. Useing a Ford spin on filter NAPA the best least pres. drop. Works very good about 6500 miles idles at 10 hot 10/30 or 20/50. Laurie
 
As a kid, I owned a beautiful 1949 Ford that came from Southern California. It purred like a kitten with no oil filter system at all. Never gave me any engine trouble. Guess that would have worried a few of you. I was more concerned about how to raise money to buy a spare tire.

What is it they say, "Ignorance is bliss."
 
I'm running two av8's, one with 100% oil filtered with high volume m15 oil pump and the next with stock oil passages and a high volume pump but where the oil line exits the engine to the oil filter I removed the .060" orfice and installed an adjustable valve then it goes to a remote oil filter. I figured the m15 pump puts out a lot more oil than the flathead needs so with the valve I can open it up until the oil pressure backs off a little when warm, now the oil is not bypassing at the oil pump bypass building up heat but goes through the filter cleaning the oil plus maybe cooling it a little also. If the engine gets loose and oil pressure drops I can screw the valve down a little to divert more oil to engine. Maybe not the best way but working thus far for me. Using pcv's on both.

Vergil
 

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"there is a plug in the hole you speak..."
I know the plug well. Look again...the vertical stack is the feed from the pump.
At the rear main, oils has two holes seen right and left in the pic. Oil going RIGHT enters the rear main, oil going LEFT enters the filter. From this point, oil has to go through the filter (the plug's purpose) except for the oil that turned right into the RB, then it reenters the feed stack ABOVE the plug and proceeds upwards to the other passages feeding all other bearings and the valve train.
That lower passage is the filter entrance.
The oil returns from the filter right above the plug, and heads on up to oil everything else.
In an engine without the plug (a common mishap amongst inexperienced people assembly a freshly cleaned block), the filter can fill up but has no flow, so the whole engine would be getting unfiltered oil.
One of Smokey Yunick's books has a long essay on ways to rearrange things to get the rear main oil filtered, but concludes that there is no benefit to justify the trouble.
 
Guys, I was reading through the posts on this and had a question. My original 41 24 stud has a filter mounted on the left head. There is a line coming from the block where the oil pressure sensor unit, going to the filter and from there it goes to the front of the engine. The line has a fitting at that end that accepts one of the bolts that hold the timing cover on. That bolt has in it allowing the oil to return near the cam gears.

I moved this system to the new engine. The new engine is the same except there is a T fitting where the pressure sensor and oil line are attached. My oil psi is around 60 to 80 depending on temp.

If I take the filter system off and plug that line I am guessing I will have more psi correct?

Or if I reduce the line size at one end by welding it up and drilling a .060 hole.

Now I learned that I get a pretty good flow of oil out of this line now but I worry about ruining my new engine. Any thoughts? I have about 250 miles on it now.

Mark
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
"there is a plug in the hole you speak..."
I know the plug well. Look again...the vertical stack is the feed from the pump.
At the rear main, oils has two holes seen right and left in the pic. Oil going RIGHT enters the rear main, oil going LEFT enters the filter. From this point, oil has to go through the filter (the plug's purpose) except for the oil that turned right into the RB, then it reenters the feed stack ABOVE the plug and proceeds upwards to the other passages feeding all other bearings and the valve train.
That lower passage is the filter entrance.
The oil returns from the filter right above the plug, and heads on up to oil everything else.
In an engine without the plug (a common mishap amongst inexperienced people assembly a freshly cleaned block), the filter can fill up but has no flow, so the whole engine would be getting unfiltered oil.
One of Smokey Yunick's books has a long essay on ways to rearrange things to get the rear main oil filtered, but concludes that there is no benefit to justify the trouble.
Click to expand...


Bruce it easy to see that the oil in hole goes to the right but that is where it is stopped. The large hole can be seen in the main saddle in the pic just under the bearing tang slot.This large hole is covered by the main bearing when it is installed.There is no corresponding oil hole there in the bearing. Lower in the picture you can see the oil hole in the main web that corresponds with the oil hole and groove in the bearing when it is installed. The large hole in the web is left behind when they machine the passage that intercects with the filter passage.
 
Yes...it is the lower passage that feeds the bearing. This is below the plug and feeds the rear main, the blind hole above the plug is the one that feeds filtered oil to everything else in the system. Oil from the pump divides BELOW the plug, a portion feeding unfilterd oil to the rear main, the remainin majority going through the filter, across to return to the vertical stack ABOVE the plug and on to the oil galleries. The rear main gets unfiltered oil straight from the pump.
The passage tha ends before the rear main is the outlet from filter, the one below drilled from two directions is the rear bearing feed.
LOWER passage is into the filter, UPPER is from the filter. The plug forces oil flow through the filter and fully isolates the rear main from filtered flow. Except on racing engines with fully external oils systems, altering that is complicated, as Smokey demonstrates!
 
There are the diagrams, then there is the written description as how to install it…. now comes the photos for those of you that are diagram or description challenged (like me)….
 

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You need to use a remote filter base that allows use of a spin-on full flow filter with by-pass capability and bigger 3/8" ID lines. ..B.
 
Barlea:
Just wondering, are you saying this won't work, or that the spin on with the 3/8 " lines is just better? I will admit I have thought of going with larger lines rather than reducing them. This in going into a stock 53' Merc and the spin on would be very obvious.
 
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Lines are too small, original filter is not designed for full flow, and you need bypass capability for cold start and other situations when full flow filter will not pass sufficient oil volume. If you're worried about it looking 100% original, forget it. ..B.
 
Barlea:
So you are saying my only option to keep the origional appearance is just to cap off the new hole and use it the way it was?
 
Does anyone make this system as a kit?
 

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Not all was lost....I was able to use the grub screw to plug the new hold drilled in the block....the option will always be there for a full flow filter....I guess I am too much of a purest.
 
The EFV-8 club does not deduct points for seat belts, right? To me improving the filtration of the oil system to protect the investment that we put into these engines is along the same rationale.
 
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