Here are a couple items from my files. Credit for any of these tips should be given to the authors who are named.
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]'32-'53 Flathead Engine Tips From Technical Tips by Dick Flynn[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]1. Use valve grind compound to seat rear hubs on axles so taper fits tight and torque to 150 ft/lbs.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]2. When replacing fuel pump (buy new if possible), install new push rod - make sure lobe isn't flat and pack heavy grease in fuel pump linkage so condensation from engine won't get to the linkage and ruin pump.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]3. Use only hub puller on Ford hubs or you can ruin axle and brake drum by pulling on lugs.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]4. If you are going to replace shackle bushings and are not going for a 100 point Concourse Car, use the new style high tech bushings as the car will handle better and they won't grind apart.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]5. Replace upper steering shaft and bushing with ball bearings #C3DZ-3517A plus spring and bushing (Ford).[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]6. When grinding valves, always use valve grind compound and lap valves to assure a good seat.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]7. Do not use copper head gaskets on aluminum heads - they set up electrolysis and new head gaskets should be coated with a sealer so they will let head slide from heat. Also, coolant won't seep through head gasket.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]8. When installing head studs or head bolts that go into the water jacket (all Ford '32-'53), seal threads with sealer so water won't seep out of threads.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]9. When building new engine install a '49-'53 oil pump which is 80# instead of 50# and the pickup tube has to be re-made and sending unit changed.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]10. When replacing grease seals, never use leather seals - always use neoprene.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]11. For rust free brake system, use silicone brake fluid made by Dow Corning. Flush brake lines with flushing fluid - this leaves no residue and replace all rubber parts in master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Any drop of old brake fluid will attract water.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]12. Do not start car unless you are going to drive car 15 or 20 miles because condensation will stay in engine and exhaust system and will deteriorate both.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]13. Balance clutch and flywheel or engine will vibrate. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]14. Never use used transmission bearings. They will make noise and you will have to tear apart again.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]15. Magnaflux rear axles when rear end is apart to make sure there aren't any cracks or flaws.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]16. Torque all bolts and nuts to specified torque as not to weaken or distort by over tightening.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]17. Use Monel for pins in the drive shaft sleeve. Mild steel will work; hardened steel comes apart and will break in half and fly out. (Arc weld ends of pins to keep in place)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]18. Keep gas tank full so condensation won't form or water will settle in bottom of gas tank and rust and weaken.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]19. When installing axles and drive shaft, cover with heavy grease to prevent condensation from forming rust and weakening.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]20. When rebuilding '32-'48 Ford differentials, have bearing races installed on axle housing even if you think they look good, then they will last forever. They wear faster than you think. They will fall apart![/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]21. When the inhibitors in anti-freeze break down the ethylene glycol will attack the lead in the solder in the radiator and also any aluminum parts plugging tubes in radiator, also anti-freeze will seep where water won't -- this means all gaskets.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]22. Use Propylene Glycol anti-freeze only! It won't destroy engine bearings if it is induced into the engine oil. Ethylene glycol anti-freeze will instantly ruin all engine bearings if it is induced into the engine oil. Propylene anti-freeze helps eliminate cavication corrosion problems better. It is safer to dispose of also. It has a lowed toxicity to pets and wildlife.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]23. Put silicone on tires and all rubber parts to help preserve and keep temperature at 60-65 with air circulating. Keep covered with cloth car cover in darkened area.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]24. If car sets for a long period of time pump brake pedal to keep all cylinders lubricated so rubber cups don't become unsealed from cylinder walls.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]5/27/07 Post on Fordbarn regarding worth of keeping a '32-36 Ford FH engine by Charlie Stephens: [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]The engines are definitely worth keeping. There were no serial numbers on the engine for US production (the serial number was stamped into the transmission). There are casting numbers on the block and someone will undoubtedly help you with them. Following is the criteria I use for identification: [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]Identification of the early flatheads is best approached in terms of the block. There is an unbelievable amount of interchangeability for the accessories over the years. Count the number of head studs. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]1) If there are 17 studs it is a “V8 60” used in vehicles between 1937 and 1940. This engine was also used in the French built Simca in the sixties but I don’t know what occurred between these two periods. Look for casting numbers and stamped steel water jackets in the side of the block. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine.[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]2) If there are 21 studs the block was built 1932 to 1938. The transition to 24 studs was late in 1938. Check the water petcocks on the front of the block next to where the lower hose from the radiator enters either an inlet fitting (1936 and earlier) or the water pump (1937 and later). It the petcocks point straight down it is a ’32 block. If the block is not a ’32 next look for a vent from the crankcase area out through the front corner of the oil pan. If there is no vent the block is 1933-34. If there is a vent it is 1935 or later. As a matter of interest, the late 1935 engines were the first to use insert bearings and can usually (but not always) be identified by the letters “LB” stamped into the surface where the intake manifold attaches. Babbitt bearing engines were produced at the same time the insert bearing engines were produced from late 1935 thru 1936. Now check for the locat1on of the water pumps. If the water pumps mount on the block the engine is 1937 or later. Frequently you will encounter a 1937 block with factory block off plates held on by two bolts over the water pump passage at the front of the block as it was common for Ford dealers to install this engine as a replacement in the earlier cars. Of course there will be slight transition periods at model change over with the older blocks usually going into the commercial vehicles. There may be subtle differences between the 1933-34 and the 1935-36 engines but I am knowledgeable enough about these years to know what they are. The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will also help identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine.[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]3) If there are 24 studs the engine was produced between late 1938 and 1953 (1954 in Canada). If the distributor is mounted on the front of the block the engine is late 1938 through 1948 (1947 for trucks). If the distributor comes up at an angle and appears more like a modern distributor it is a 1949 (1948 for truck) through 1953 (1954 in Canada). The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will further identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine.[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]4) There are a lot of additional foreign and industrial applications of these engines but the preceding covers the domestic US automobile production. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]Charlie Stephens[/FONT]
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