flareing tool quiestion

Don

Don

Well-known member
after doing about half of my tubing for hyd brakes ,i noticed the tool for double flareing was 37 degrees and i think the fittings were for 45 degrees, do i need to redo them using a 45 degree tool or can i use a regular 45 degree flaring tool to change the angle a little, don p
 
If you are doing 45s on steel line, you are doing double flare, right?... Do them over from clean ends, IMO... Karl
 
Yes .thats what i was afraid of.dont think i can stretch it enough tho.to do over better to do it right now than latter.. Learn something everyday. Didnt know there was such a thing.
 
Side note about flares. Typically, brass fittingws that have a flare are 45 degrees, which is an SAE/automotive flare. Industrial tubing on the other hand is usually 37 degrees. Why? I don't know, as the Imperial Eastman salesman that called on me never explained that part.:)
 
I think 37 degrees or "AN" is Mil spec. Army / Navy. This is the seat used on all the blue and red stuff used on race cars etc.
 
37 degree flares are standard in all aircraft applications worth mentioning. 45 degree has been the standard in the automotive industry since Christ was a corporal. You can get aircraft fittings in aluminum, steel, or stainless steel depending on the application. Aircraft Spruce & Specialty is a supplier of aircraft hardware at fairly reasonable cost if you want to go that way. There are others but they are usually localised around larger cities with lots of airports. Unless I am going original on a project, I use AN, MS, or NAS standard fluid line hardware since I have all the tooling for it.

Kerby
 
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Don said:
after doing about half of my tubing for hyd brakes ,i noticed the tool for double flareing was 37 degrees and i think the fittings were for 45 degrees, do i need to redo them using a 45 degree tool or can i use a regular 45 degree flaring tool to change the angle a little, don p
Click to expand...

I would try to finish one of the flairs you have already done with the 45 deg. tool and see how it looks. I think all you have done so far is not to expand the flair all the way out to 45 deg yet. :confused:

The 45 Degrees is eatablished in the second operation. The first operation is just to upset the tube enough so you can fold the end of the tube in to form the double wall for the flair.

Give it a try ans see what happens.

I think you may find it is just fine. :)

Chris
 
Good information, think i will give the 45 degree tool a try and see what happens. Its hard to tell any diff in the factory 45 and the 37 that i do tho. Looks like when it tightens up it would conform to the flare in the fitting,
 
Correct Don , you should never crimp step 2 of your double flare too hard anyways as it will seat better if it pulls up tight to the male flare.
Cheers
Tony
 
...Or, if all else fails, put small nitrile "O" rings in the fittings that JUST fit inside. Then tighten the flare down. I do it as a matter of course on brake and fuel lines, and it works beautifully...
 
Curious, I've never seen a 37 deg double flare. At Bendix we used the support collars behind the flare and inside the nut ; then flared the line at 37. This was stainless tubing and I'm not sure it would have double flared without splitting.
 
You are probally right, i started off using a 45 double flaring .the first step was ok but the second step was leaving me with a crooked end.so ithougfht the tool was bad so i borrowed a flaring tool from a friend it was a ridged hi quality and finished up the second step,didnt know it was a 37 till i was lookinf at speedway book and saw the diff. Dp
 
Don, re-do all your fitting and do it with the same tool. Don't use a HVAC flaring tool, not the same. You'll have to shorten all your incorrect flares. Bad idea the someone suggested of putting a O ring in the flare. It's not designed for it and if a small piece gets int the system you'll never find it or your brakes may fail. Use the right tool for the right job. Best of luck........ Gordon
 
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