Fitting a trailer hitch to the Model A

Paul_nz

Member
I saw an article in one of the MAFCA Chapters newsletters on manufacturing a towing/trailer hitch for the Model A and can not recall which Chapter published the article. Can anyone help with suggestions and or drawings of how to manufacture and fit the hitch

Happy New year to everyone

Paul
 
For towing a light trailer, I mad a hitch from thin channel iron that bolted to the bumper bolts by the spreader. It worked fine. I think it is still in the barn, as the trailer is gone.
 

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I took my Victoria to a local trailer hitch shop that was privately owned and had a reputation for quality work. The customer job scope that was specified was that they could not drill holes or weld anything to the Model A. They had to use existing bolt holes in the rear bumper brackets and the receiver had to just peek out under the rear spare tire. They included an electrical receptical pad and I later did the elctrical wiring. They did an excellent job, I was so pleased with it I brought my 29 coupe and my modern iron in and had hitches put on them. This allows me to tow my mullins trailer with each vehicle. All I have to do is switch out the tail\brake light bulbs to suit the voltage application.

The people at the trailer hitch shop were enthusiastic about both Model A's and took photos to post on their office walls. They added some cross bracing to the bumper brackets back under the car, using existing bolt holes. Existing bolts were replaced with longer grade 8 bolts.

I have towed my Mullins many thousands of miles with both Model A's and am certainly pleased with both hitches. The cost was around $200-$250 for each installation.

Tom Endy
 

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Tom, Do you have pictures / diagrams of the hitch itself? Is your trailer an original Mullins or a fiberglass repro?
Thanks, Carl
 
We did an article in Volume 5 Issue 3 on making a receiver hitch for the Model A in the Model A Times.
 

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We did an article in Volume 5 Issue 3 on making a receiver hitch for the Model A in the Model A Times.

I would rethink that "good" job of welding if I were you! It looks awful to me. If my 7 year old grandson welded like that, I'd make him grind it out and do it over. Looks like very little if any penetration of the weld to me.
 
Tom, Do you have pictures / diagrams of the hitch itself? Is your trailer an original Mullins or a fiberglass repro?
Thanks, Carl

Sorry, I have no photos or diagram. I also do not have the 29 coupe amymore. The Mullins is a fiberglass reproduction.

Tom Endy
 
You could probably "tow" 500-800 lbs or something the size of the two examples above. Don't forget safety chains!!! JMO
Paul in CT
 
Welding looked just fine to me.....might have lost a few "fine points".

Take another look, the welds aren't even straight along the joint of the steel. No weld should "worm" up like the way this one does, it shows the heat range was not set high enough to penetrate the steel. In one corner there is even a blob of weld that wasn't cleaned up. The vertical weld on the left side looks like it is only half way. Nice paint job though! Like I said, this is an accident waiting to happen, too bad its the person following this car will be the one that suffers.
From what I can see, the rest of the car looks excellent, I am surprised that someone would put that lack of quality on their fine car.
 
It's not the best welds I've seen, but it isnt Terrible. I haven't read the article so I wouldn't forsure know, but there is probably a couple layers of welds on it. The way I was taught to weld for strength, was that it takes more than one pass over the joint to make sure the weld is strong. But then again, we all learn differently.
 
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