Fitting a '30 Coupe Header

Onlybackroads

Onlybackroads

Senior Member
Hey everyone, I just started my top wood project on my 1930 coupe. I have heard stories between no changes to major fitting needed for top wood, and it seems like my header will need some adjustments to fit right.

I am curious, does it mostly need to be fitted/shaped on the bottom side that sits in the channel, or does the top ever need taking down? The sheet metal on top seems to fit decently around the header, but the whole things seems too tall since my visor is well above the mounting holes in the pillars, and the sheet metal header cover is over a 1/4" lower than the top of the wood. I haven't messed around with it much since I just started, but any ideas would be appreciated before I unnecessarily take away wood. Thanks!

Also, any direction to amazing forums that explain wood fitting would be nice, I looked for a while on here but didn't really find exactly what I wanted.
 
The top side as it needs to fit the contour of the header cap and the side panels perfectly so the roof material tacks and the moulding nails have something substantial to anchor to. Gaps or voids allow wind & water to leak in.
 
The front face MAY need some work as well. One important area often overlooked is how the front face panel fits along the bottom and the angle of the front face can impact that.

First, the header should fit neatly in the support so the wood forward of the support is both flush and level with the support to it's rear. Next, the panel needs to pull up high enough that there is no gap between the panel and the bottom of the header along the front where the windshield mounting screws go through into the wood. The larger the gap, the lower the windshield. I've seen some finished cars with a gap so large that the windshield is low enough to bind at the bottom of the windshield opening.

Additionally, I've seen some where the bottom of the panel isn't pulled fully rearward where it belongs which is also a side affect of the above issue. In this case the windshield mounting screws barely catch the wood along the lower front edge of the header.

Finally, once the front face panel is properly fitted there should be approximately 3/16" of wood showing above the panel. Then before the final install of the face panel, a strip of fender welting is tacked to the face of the wood so the bead covers that 3/16" area of wood and forms a seal against the bottom of the visor once installed.
 
Marco (as always) put it very well. I learned the hard way when I ended up disassembling my fully assembled roof frame....twice.

I would only like to add that once you think it is right, it is a good idea to test fit everything, even tack in the roof panels with a few nails. Open and close the doors to check the fit under the drip rail. If I had to do another one, I might even put in the windshield with two screws.

Good luck!
 
Marco has it so right. I installed new top wood and header in my 30 coupe. I now find that I have two problems. First, the windshield is to low and hits on
the bottom of the frame. Second, the opening for the windshield in not square.
The only thing I can do is take it all apart and start over keeping the things that Marco has encountered in mind. Does anyone have any suggestions.
I am trying to do everything myself and this is my very first rebuild so I could sure use any info you can provide. Since reading this forum I have come to the conclusion that are some really smart and knowledgeable guys out there.
 
rcrra said:
Marco has it so right. I installed new top wood and header in my 30 coupe. I now find that I have two problems. First, the windshield is to low and hits on
the bottom of the frame. Second, the opening for the windshield in not square.
The only thing I can do is take it all apart and start over keeping the things that Marco has encountered in mind. Does anyone have any suggestions.
I am trying to do everything myself and this is my very first rebuild so I could sure use any info you can provide. Since reading this forum I have come to the conclusion that are some really smart and knowledgeable guys out there.
Click to expand...

I must admit that we have not used a commercially manufactured header in several years, but it appears the quality control has really deteriorated if they are that far off on measurements. Sounds like you would be further ahead to fabricate an entirely new piece using the one you purchased as a guide where you need to make corrections.
 
I am thinking the header is to wide where the top wood fits into the grove and has pushed
one of the pillars slightly to one side. Is that possible?
 
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