Just pulled the pan for the first time and so far just looking. The main reason I pulled pan was a rear engine oil leak. My tube was in ( a little loose). I notice my front and middle main bolts are square head with no castellations for cotter pins. My rear main has castellation but no cotter pins were in. My oil was clean I see no evidence of babbit material. I notice the shaft does have some front to back play. I think it is called thrust? I do not know how much yet but I hear a knock when I push it back and forth. Also the #3 rod seems to have more side to side movement than the rest. Any ideas on that. So far engine looks ok I have no idea when it was rebuilt. Will there be any cylinder ridge at bottom of cylinders in a worn engine? Thanks for any input. Any idea on oil leak it is pretty bad at idle in one spot. Joe B.
First time pulling pan
- Thread starter JBohannon
- Start date
Patrick L.
Well-known member
You'll find the nuts for the front and center mains on the block, center main between the center cylinders and front above timing case.
The cotters can be a PITA to remove.
You may need to build yourself a special to get at the rear nuts.
Generally the front main doesn't need attention/adjusting. But the center and rear will.
The rods shouldn't need much if any.
There should be no ridge on the bottom of the bore.
When checking/adjusting the mains I apply a little pressure to the crank with a small hydraulic jack, just enough to make sure the crank stays put against the upper bearing.
The cotters can be a PITA to remove.
You may need to build yourself a special to get at the rear nuts.
Generally the front main doesn't need attention/adjusting. But the center and rear will.
The rods shouldn't need much if any.
There should be no ridge on the bottom of the bore.
When checking/adjusting the mains I apply a little pressure to the crank with a small hydraulic jack, just enough to make sure the crank stays put against the upper bearing.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
You may find out more when the rear cap is removed and looked at. Excessive clearance can cause it to leak. I like to tighten the rear one up pretty tight [ .001"] while I set the others to .0015".
Let us know what you find when you take a good look at it. See if the cap, bearing and drain tube all look good.
Let us know what you find when you take a good look at it. See if the cap, bearing and drain tube all look good.
1955cj5
Well-known member
Here is some guidance....
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/REARMAINLEAK.html
My leak turned out to be mostly from the lack of a gasket between the engine and flywheel housing allowing the rear bearing of the cam to leak as there is no seal there...
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/REARMAINLEAK.html
My leak turned out to be mostly from the lack of a gasket between the engine and flywheel housing allowing the rear bearing of the cam to leak as there is no seal there...
Patrick L.
Well-known member
What 1955 said is a good point.
I got into thinking just about a main leak from your post. But, that gasket gets forgotten about sometimes and doesn't get installed.
I just went thru that a few months ago on a fellas car, he forgot that gasket.
I got into thinking just about a main leak from your post. But, that gasket gets forgotten about sometimes and doesn't get installed.
I just went thru that a few months ago on a fellas car, he forgot that gasket.
1955cj5
Well-known member
Something else i just thought of..
When you go to replace the pan, and I'm assuming the engine is still in the car.....be sure to put that little half-circle inspection plate on the front of the flywheel housing FIRST so you don't accidentally have a bolt or something fall into the flywheel and bell housing....
There was a recent thread and he successfully got the bolt out with a cable and a cow magnet or something, but it caused some unnecessary stress!
When you go to replace the pan, and I'm assuming the engine is still in the car.....be sure to put that little half-circle inspection plate on the front of the flywheel housing FIRST so you don't accidentally have a bolt or something fall into the flywheel and bell housing....
There was a recent thread and he successfully got the bolt out with a cable and a cow magnet or something, but it caused some unnecessary stress!
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
Remember the oil pump holding tool.
ian Simpson
Well-known member
Do not forget that Les Andrew's book has an error regarding pan bolt torque. It should be 20 inch/lbs not 20 ft/lbs per Mr. Andrews.
1955cj5
Well-known member
This is also helpful..
http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/sites/default/files/attachments/Leakless-Pan-Gasket-Article.pdf
Also, just to comment on part of the first post...the heads of the bearing cap bolts are square except for the rear main cap. The nuts for the front cap are under the water pump and the center cap has one nut behind the water inlet area and the other is inside the valve chamber behind the oil pump drive gear....that is the really fun one!
And, if you look at those square headed bolts, one corner probably has been flattened a bit..this is to help you align the cotter pin hole on the other end when you are re-installing the cap
http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/sites/default/files/attachments/Leakless-Pan-Gasket-Article.pdf
Also, just to comment on part of the first post...the heads of the bearing cap bolts are square except for the rear main cap. The nuts for the front cap are under the water pump and the center cap has one nut behind the water inlet area and the other is inside the valve chamber behind the oil pump drive gear....that is the really fun one!
And, if you look at those square headed bolts, one corner probably has been flattened a bit..this is to help you align the cotter pin hole on the other end when you are re-installing the cap
Marshall57
Senior Member
Also before you restart the engine. Pour a quart down the distributer hole to get oil into the dipper pan. When you finish getting your five quarts into the engine, check the oil level on the dip stick and note if it is at the full mark. Where ever your oil level is will be your full mark for your engine (some dip sticks are off). When you change oil you will only be able to drain about four and a half quarts out. Use the mark you have noted to make sure you are not trying to put more oil in than the engine can handle. Sometimes the mark on the dip stick isn't right on. If you put more oil than the five quarts required, your engine will promptly toss out the extra.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
The front and center main bolts will have a little *** sticking up on one corner. This indicates the hole for the cotter pin on the top of the bolt, and the *** should face straight in or straight out to have the cotter pin holes facing straight in towards the center of the engine.
James Rogers
Well-known member
Thrust clearance will make an engine leak, especially when running. The clearance should be between .004 and .012. You can measure this by prying the crank forward at the center bearing with a screwdriver and use feeler gauges to measure the gap between the thrust and the crank. Anything over .015 will cause a leak and the larger the clearance, the larger the leak.
The only cure, in my opinion, is to have the mains redone.
The only cure, in my opinion, is to have the mains redone.
Charlville
Senior Member
I've found the sump (oil pan
) gasket sets vary in quality, the Snyder's one seems the best quality IMHO
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/oil-pan-gaskets
) gasket sets vary in quality, the Snyder's one seems the best quality IMHO http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/oil-pan-gaskets
Well I always wondered what you guys meant by the cotter pins being so hard now I know !!! Had no idea had to go to all that trouble. My bottom end so far looks better than expected but I am pretty sure my thrust clearance is too much. I am going to check it. Thanks Joe B.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Once you go to install the pan, the oil pump holder gizmo is used to hold the oil pump in place until the pan is in place. Then its removed and the plug installed.
Also it helps when installing the pan to take a couple longer bolts, cut them off and chamfer the ends to use as pan alignment dowels.
Also it helps when installing the pan to take a couple longer bolts, cut them off and chamfer the ends to use as pan alignment dowels.
CarlG
Well-known member
If you are referring to the "bolt" like in post #8, you only use that when you are dropping the pan while the engine is still in the car. That just keeps the oil pump from falling down when the pan/spring is no longer supporting it. After you have re-installed the pan, remove the "bolt" and replace it with a 1/8" pipe plug. The original looked something like this, but your local hardware store pipe plug will work.
