First Start - C59A

Z

Ziggster

Well-known member
After a disastrous day yesterday where all the fuel from my fuel tank (1 gal lawnmower tank) drained through my carb, into the intake, and eventually into the oil pan, I resolved all that today, and fired her up for the first time. Had to shut her down after only 5 mins due to high coolant temp likely due to air in the coolant piping going to my rear mounted rad. Not a “traditional” build per se, but I just wanted to say thanks to all the folks who helped me with all the questions I had during the last 7 yrs. Without your help, there is no way I could have accomplished all this. I will try to get some vids loaded onto YT, and once done, I’ll share the link. Some screenshots for now.
 

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Ziggster said:
After a disastrous day yesterday where all the fuel from my fuel tank (1 gal lawnmower tank) drained through my carb, into the intake, and eventually into the oil pan, I resolved all that today, and fired her up for the first time. Had to shut her down after only 5 mins due to high coolant temp likely due to air in the coolant piping going to my rear mounted rad. Not a “traditional” build per se, but I just wanted to say thanks to all the folks who helped me with all the questions I had during the last 7 yrs. Without your help, there is no way I could have accomplished all this. I will try to get some vids loaded onto YT, and once done, I’ll share the link. Some screenshots for now.
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I appreciate you creating that thread, I picked up some tid bits of info for my start up some day! What cam did you choose?
 
I think the reason you saw hi coolant temps is because of the way you have configured your top hose. I've always understood that the cooling principle with these engines is thermo-syphon with water pump assistance. The top radiator inlets are higher than the outlets in the heads, on account that heat rises. But you have got the highest portion then dipping quite considerably downwards, the hot coolant's natural tendency will not be to follow that route. I see you've got little bleeders so you can purge air out of those top pipes, so doubt your high temps are on account of an air pocket. I could be totally wrong, you've obviously put a lot of thought and work into this....good luck! It's always real satisfying to hear the engine 'speak' for that first time.
 
Brian said:
I think the reason you saw hi coolant temps is because of the way you have configured your top hose. I've always understood that the cooling principle with these engines is thermo-syphon with water pump assistance. The top radiator inlets are higher than the outlets in the heads, on account that heat rises. But you have got the highest portion then dipping quite considerably downwards, the hot coolant's natural tendency will not be to follow that route. I see you've got little bleeders so you can purge air out of those top pipes, so doubt your high temps are on account of an air pocket. I could be totally wrong, you've obviously put a lot of thought and work into this....good luck! It's always real satisfying to hear the engine 'speak' for that first time.
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Yep, can’t deny that effect, but the mechanical pumps will be much stronger in terms of moving fluid than the thermo siphoning effect. The system was never purged of air, so I’m hoping that was the issue, but who knows for sure at this point.
 
Ziggster said:
Yep, can’t deny that effect, but the mechanical pumps will be much stronger in terms of moving fluid than the thermo siphoning effect. The system was never purged of air, so I’m hoping that was the issue, but who knows for sure at this point.
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Fantastic that you got it running but It'd be best now if you don't run it on the stand any longer. Your engine needs a load on it, under variations of RPM, to get the rings seated properly, i.e., get it on the road. Search here and you'll find many that recommend the same.

Glenn
 
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Yeah, still have to break-in the cam, as it was only running for about 5 mins yesterday, but you’re correct, it needs a load on it after the cam-break-in. It will be at least another year before it’s in a drivable state, and where I live (Quebec), it will never be certified for the road. So, the plan was/is to get it on a dyno to load it up for seating the rings.
 
Ziggster said:
Yeah, still have to break-in the cam, as it was only running for about 5 mins yesterday, but you’re correct, it needs a load on it after the cam-break-in. It will be at least another year before it’s in a drivable state, and where I live (Quebec), it will never be certified for the road. So, the plan was/is to get it on a dyno to load it up for seating the rings.
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Very cool and congrats. Love the split center exhaust tube!

Be careful with the cam break-in. A new motor idling too long without a load can cause the rings to not bed correctly.

** Edit- Just re-read that you'll get it on a dyno. Great plan!
 
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Ziggster said:
Yeah, still have to break-in the cam, as it was only running for about 5 mins yesterday, but you’re correct, it needs a load on it after the cam-break-in. It will be at least another year before it’s in a drivable state, and where I live (Quebec), it will never be certified for the road. So, the plan was/is to get it on a dyno to load it up for seating the rings.
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That 's a good plan with a dyno.
Also curios about why you can't get it road certified in Quebec?

Glenn
 
Tim Ayers said:
Very cool and congrats. Love the split center exhaust tube!

Be careful with the cam break-in. A new motor idling too long without a load can cause the rings to not bed correctly.

** Edit- Just re-read that you'll get it on a dyno. Great plan!
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Thanks! Not sure if the split exh changes the “flathead” sound. Some folks were dubious of doing that. I was worried that there wasn’t going to be enough back pressure with the 4” collectors, and maybe there isn’t, but I was surprised at how the exhaust gases were strong enough to push the grass/weeds when the bottom of the opening at the tip was about 1’ off the ground, and the opening is a “5 x 4” oval.
We had the engine running about 2,000 rpm the whole time.
 
glennpm said:
That 's a good plan with a dyno.
Also curios about why you can't get it road certified in Quebec?

Glenn
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There’s no longer anyone in the Ottawa area with a dyno (engine only) that I’m aware of. Went to a place last year only to find the doors closed, and yet as of today, their website is still up. I did contact Nick’s Garage in Montreal last year via email, but never heard back. I’ll call them this time.
When I started this project, I contacted the provincial authority and communicated with one of their engineers. They have a handbook on “home built” vehicles, but the requirements would mean essentially no “hot rod”. No exposed exhaust, windshield required, heater required, etc. So, the plan was to race it at TROG etc, but I should have read the rules first. This thing doesn’t qualify for TROG because of the T5, modern rad/fan. I’ll figure something out. ��
 
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Ziggster said:
There’s no longer anyone on the Ottawa area with a dyno (engine only) that I’m aware of. Went to a place last year only to find the doors closed, and yet as if today, their website is still up. I dud contact Nick’s Garage last year via email, but never heard back. I’ll call them this time.
When I started this project, I contacted the provincial authority and communicated with one of their engineers. They have a handbook on @homr built” vehicles, but the requirements would mean essentially no “hot rod”. No exposed exhaust, windshield required, heater required, etc. So, the plan was to race it at TROG etc, but I should have read the rules first. This thing doesn’t qualify for TROG because of the T5, modern rad/fan. I’ll figure something out. 😉
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Thanks, I get it now.

Good on immediately running at 2K too. That has been my method as well and what I did for my 59A before it was road ready and I have no smoke or excess oil usage For SBCs, 3K. REAL important to not just start it up and idle it!

Glenn
 
I’ve watched probably close to a hundred vids of Nick from Nick’s Gsrage YT channel breaking in freshly built engines on his dyno. His latest was a 383 Mopar, and he’ll typically run headers, and runs his engines at around 2,000 rpm for 10 mins, then stop the engine, let it cool down, then run it again for another 10 mins. He said that this is the way he had always done and has never had issues. Then next are his dyno pulls. He knows what he’s talking about for sure.
 
You did good!

Just and aside, fan belt should be looser than you are probably familiar with otherwise the gen bearings will wear too quickly.
 
petehoovie said:
I like it "tooo many"...:) It's such a nice setup, I don't think I'd want to take it off the stand...
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Thanks again! That will be my chassis! Dash and rad are just mocked but very close to where they’ll end up. It is supposed to look something like this when done (I hope). lol!
 

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