First Flathead Build

S

sharp21

Member
Hi Gang,

I posted this over on the HAMB, then found this place and thought there might be a little more insight over here.

Picked up this old girl yesterday. Been sitting on the stand for the last 10 years and is frozen up. I'm looking forward to tearing into it!

I don't know much about them but have started reading. Any tips or identification would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5494 (Medium).jpg
    IMG_5494 (Medium).jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 395
  • IMG_5495 (Medium).jpg
    IMG_5495 (Medium).jpg
    109.8 KB · Views: 354
  • IMG_5497 (Medium).jpg
    IMG_5497 (Medium).jpg
    41 KB · Views: 343
  • IMG_5500 (Medium).jpg
    IMG_5500 (Medium).jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 354
  • IMG_5501 (Medium).jpg
    IMG_5501 (Medium).jpg
    132.1 KB · Views: 317
After you get it taken apart, first thing is to check the block for damage, such as cracks. If it appears ok visually, the next set is to have it pressure tested. Flatheads often have hidden cracks and you want to spend the least amount of money possible until you verify you have a good base to work with. Welcome to the Barn and the world of flathead Fords!

Disassembly can sometimes be a challenge if you are not familiar with the engine, so ask away if you have questions.
 
Going just by the heads and water pumps and crank pulley, it's a truck engine (RT-means truck), but that doesn't mean anything with this series motor. Parts get mixed and matched over the years.

First suggestion is to get a good book about these engines. One of the many examples is Tardel's & Bishop's great book. It has an excellent chapter about tear down.

Since you are not familiar with these, take plenty of picts and clearly label what and where you took parts off from.

My best advise is to go slow, use PLENTY of penetrating oil before turning any bolt and either purchase or borrow the proper tools to remove the valve train.

Put a bunch of cardboard & newspaper down under the motor for tearing one down in a messy job.

Regarding stuck pistons. I've had good luck squirting a 50/50 mix of ATF & acetone into the bores 2x or 3x's a day. Work the crank bolt back and forth each time. If that doesn't free it up, I've used a piece of wooden baseball bat blank to knock the pistons out.

Once torn down, it will need to be pressure tested first. If that checks out, have it cleaned and then mag tested. After it passes these two tests, you're good to go with the rebuild.
 
Welcome aboard Sharp21. You will find LOTS of info here learn to use the Search and Advanced Search on this forum because your question may have already been addressed. I would do the 50/50 soak before tearing it down and have the block pressure tested as advised. Some of those cracks can be repaired. Better to address them now than later.There are a bunch of You Tube posts on flatheads. Get you a Ford repair manual usually available online.
Below is a site to inspire you. Scroll down the pages of flathead photos and when you see a play arrow, crank up your computer and enjoy the adventure.
Just remember that no question is a stupid question and it is YOUR engine. Chap

http://gocatspeedshop.com/
 
My only question is: what do you plan to do with the engine after ti's rebuilt? One thing you should know is, internally their all the same, only the Mecury has a longer stroke. Different water pumps and Bell housing allow you to install it into most old Fords quite easy.. Yes, welcome here on the Barn.
Gramps
 
start soaking the pistons with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and atf, collect or borrow the necessary tools to pull this engine apart. valve bar, valve puller are the tow most important tools and post a general location-Hey there may be other flathead nuts around you that are up for a challenge and can help you. Good luck and welcome to the barn!!!
 
It looks as if the heads have already been off. I hope when you take them off there isn't something bad waiting for you. Many cracks can be repaired depending on where they are. Good advice re 50/50 acetone/atf mix, and be patient. I hope you have a usable block, as they are getting harder to find. Good luck and welcome.
 
And you need a BIG rag bag. I've noticed these engines go through a lot more rags than other stuff I work on. Dam hard on your shop wardrobe, too.
 
My first one, the block was cracked pretty bad. I worried about this, but kept my eyes open and networked. Soon I had 4 good blocks here, been magnafluxed by the machine shop and then pressure tested by me. Point is, there are still good blocks out there even if you have to get lucky a little bit.
 
I would have it cleaned and magnafluxed first then pressure test. Baked on crud and rust scale could seal a crack that could rear its ugly head after you re-build it. Or pressure test it twice.In my area a shop cleans and mags for a little over a hundred dollars....welcome and good luck!!!......Mark
 
Welcome sharp21 ! What are your plans for this flatty ? These guys really know their stuff & this forum helped me A LOT. Vanpelt sale is a GR8 source for charted info, parts etc.
Hope the block is good & that you can enjoy the ride. There's just something about a Ford flathead. mike
 
Thanks for all the replies! I definitely came to the right place!

A little bit more background - I've always loved cars. My dad started teaching me to drive at 11 years old ('65 F100, with a mean clutch). I've had a few cool cars and do most of my own work. But I've never tore down and rebuilt a motor. We recently moved and I've got my garage setup, so now is the time!

Put the word out and my buddy found me this motor for a song. I think flatheads are the best looking motor going so count myself lucky. My primary goal here is to built it, learn something, and get it running on the stand. At that point I may sell/trade up into something else, or get the next piece of my future hot rod and keep building.

You guys have keen eyes; the heads were pulled already. History is that it was purchased, heads and intake pulled for inspection, then they moved to a different project. It sat on the stand in the shop for the past 10 years.

I'm going to start removing parts, free up the pistons, finish the teardown, and send it for the testing you guys recommend. Will make sure to label everything and promise I won't throw anything out!

Appreciate the input
 
after the rebuild you need to hunt up a 48/52 pick up and build that to put the motor in. my 49
 

Attachments

  • 49 F1.jpg
    49 F1.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 102
A box of zip lock bags mark everything on the bag as to where it come from like no.1
exhaust & intake. Mark each rod where it come from. Everything in order, All for
examination whether you use them or not. You will defiantly need a cam bearing
remover / installer tool, valve guide pry bar remover won't hurt either about all venders
have those. Seeing your going to do most yourself, remove crank clean & clean all
insert shells reassemble one by one with plastigage thats cheap enough, JUST to find out
where you are at, clearance wise. You may also want to buy a cylinder ridge remover
if its got any kind of ridge up top. Another tip cut a plastic barrel in half put block in
barrel a step ladder with diesel with small hose on top of ladder, parts brush and go for it
because if it come to machine work, they do not want greasy things coming in. These
are only my suggestions. Oh don't forget to read all insert bearings, they usually are
marked to tell you if anybodys been in there before. Remember there's nothing special
about these to the machine shop eyes, they go by the numbers with micrometers and
such......sam
 
The L-head V8 is a simple motor. The first one I tore down was a real education. It was obvious that it was simple but it was also obvious that that simple valve train was frozen solid in the block. I lost my first home made horse shoe clip puller to a junk salvage guy that was given free range to haul off scrap when I was going to A&P school. That big 1.25" bar was 5 feet long and was tapered down to a point on one end with a slight S-curve to the tip end. I could hook into the clip holes and pry even the stiffest ones out. I miss that thing. I have All Power tools and an old KD Tool valve puller that do the job now.

Take your time with the pistons. If they aren't too rusty, you can drive them out. If they look like cauliflower with corrosion then sometimes they have to be broken out. A carefully worked hole saw can get the break out process started. It can be a lot of work for nothing if the block turns out to be bad but it is a challenge that most mechanics should experience at least once in their life.
 
alanwoodieman said:
after the rebuild you need to hunt up a 48/52 pick up and build that to put the motor in. my 49
Click to expand...

I really like that!

Great tip on the hole saw. I had an old timer give me an interesting tip the other day for breaking things free; Drill out a sparkplug and thread in a zerk fitting. Put it into the TDC piston and pump it up! Says its worked for him a few times.

I've got a parts cleaner and plan on cleaning everything as soon as it comes off the block.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top