first A engine tear down

bought my A with " a running motor on stand"...that was tight to turn over by hand/wrench...pulling the head I found form a gasket had run down in the cylinders...cleaned up...checked oil which is pumping up to the valve area behind the side plate...still not and easy turn over...now I guess I need to pull the caps - main and rods...what are the tourqe specs for the rods and mains?...think it's going to be a piston issue...motor does look clean...

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Why are the intake valves so recessed? Did someone use stock valves after boring for larger intake valves?

"A running engine" doesn't tell much about the condition. Maybe now would be a good time for a complete teardown. I would at least look very closely at the babbit for the mains and rods.

As far as the recessed intake valves, oversized intakes might fix that problem, rather than install valve seats.
 
I agree with Tom regarding the valves and a tear down. The quality of work represented by permatexing the ( old?) gasket, using old valves, the odd seat situation, etc, bears further investigation before you invest time in an installation. It will be time well spent rather than gambling that time spent installing it first will not require a tear down later

It might need a proper valve job. I would also plastigage the bearings. Its possible the tightness is from someone adjusting the bearings too tight and expecting to "burn them in".

When the pistons are off the crank you can feel if they are stuck by moving them through the cylinder. Run a feeler gauge up the skirt when they are at the bottom of the cylinder. Clearance should be no less than .002.

What does the cam timing gear look like? Its not unusual for one that has been sitting to tear off part of a tooth when its first moved. The ones with the metal center are junk and should be replaced anyway.

Every engine from an unknown source (and one from a known source) that I have torn down needed something corrected that would have driven me nuts if I had installed it first. If only for the sense of certainly about the engine's condition (and its usually much more than that) I've never regretted doing it.
 
Rods 40 pounds torque then to next hole to align. Mains 75 pounds then to next hole to align.

I just the big end on #3 with 35 lbs. torque + next hole for the cotter pin. I believe this was the spec in Les Andrew's valuable book.

Is 5 lbs. on the light side going to be a problem long term? This is a stock engine, run only at street speeds several times a week. Do I need to take the pan off and redo this to 40 lbs. and .0015 on the Platigauge?

Thanks
 
oh i get it , didnt think of that as it was just something that seemed to naturally need to be done to get the cotters back in i guess some might try to loosen that increment but that wouldnt be the correct torque so ...tighten to set cotters . makes sense now, thanks
 
I just the big end on #3 with 35 lbs. torque + next hole for the cotter pin. I believe this was the spec in Les Andrew's valuable book.

Is 5 lbs. on the light side going to be a problem long term? This is a stock engine, run only at street speeds several times a week. Do I need to take the pan off and redo this to 40 lbs. and .0015 on the Platigauge?

Thanks


At that area 5 pounds won't matter.
 
thanks all...all good guideance....the car was "put together" I knew that...but the engine quote I got from the guy was "it was running on a stand"...just can't believe...so tear down it would be...saw a mention of a "book"...have some good "Clymers" but not really much on tear down rebuild - is there on I should be looking for to help with the rebuild?...thanks again for all the great feedback!
 
thanks - here are some tools I've picked up over time...some I know what they are and have used....some I don't know.....also a pic of a A motor that was turned into a "compresser" motor - which was a nice job - and is my back-up motor that I plan to put on the road...it turns - but the #2 and # 3 holes have a little rust...also the lifters are missing on those two cylinders...

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