Finally Learning
- Thread starter 1949FORD
- Start date
51 MERC-CT
Well-known member
And then again sometimes practice never makes perfect
37 Coupe
Well-known member
Is that where Thresher was built? My homeport was New London.
Mart
Well-known member
1. Don't be afraid.
2, Really, really look right into the weld. Wear stronger than normal glasses if need be. Get some if you can't see the weld clearly.
3, Don't hurry.
4, get a new mask if the old one is bearing the scars of previous spattery jobs. Auto darkening is good.
5, Read up or watch some video's on youtube. See what other people do.
6, Pre heat if possible if the metal is thicker than about 1/4".
7, Practice before trying anything critical.
8, practice
9, Practice.
All the above are based on personal experience. Mig welding is arguably the easiest. You should be getting good results after a few hours.
10, clean the metal
11, make sure the tip is not old or worn
12, make sure the shroud is good
13, ensure the gas is the right type (I use a mix)
14, make sure the tip hasn't built up with clag and shorting to the shroud.
I'm sure I'll think of more.
Mart.
2, Really, really look right into the weld. Wear stronger than normal glasses if need be. Get some if you can't see the weld clearly.
3, Don't hurry.
4, get a new mask if the old one is bearing the scars of previous spattery jobs. Auto darkening is good.
5, Read up or watch some video's on youtube. See what other people do.
6, Pre heat if possible if the metal is thicker than about 1/4".
7, Practice before trying anything critical.
8, practice
9, Practice.
All the above are based on personal experience. Mig welding is arguably the easiest. You should be getting good results after a few hours.
10, clean the metal
11, make sure the tip is not old or worn
12, make sure the shroud is good
13, ensure the gas is the right type (I use a mix)
14, make sure the tip hasn't built up with clag and shorting to the shroud.
I'm sure I'll think of more.
Mart.
louisb
Senior Member
+1 on this and don't get frustrated if it takes you a while to learn. Also, practice in different positions. Start off with the two pieces on a flat surface but when you get good at that start to try welding on pieces that are vertical or horizontal.
One way to test your penetration is to take the piece after you weld and clamp it in a vice just below your weld. Then take a BFH and beat the crap out of it. If you weld holds, you have good penetration.
And just remember, it's only metal.
--louis
Gary Tosel
Well-known member
My experience with Mig welding is to use an auto darkening helmet. If you want better magnification you can buy the multiplier lense that goes inside the helmet or reading glasses should work. I wear try-focal glasses so the multiplier saves my neck from trying to use my regular glasses. Practice is also the best teacher and penetration as has been discussed is very important along with CLEAN metal.
Mind if I ask a few questions?
Is this a 110v welder?
If so, what brand, and where was it purchased?...i/e Home Depot or a welding supply store?
Did you purchase the gas setup separately?
I understand the 'Barn is helpful and encouraging, but there really isn't much nice about the beads you have laid down...I'm trying to be a realist here, I hope you don't take offense.
It appears by the amount of splatter beads you may have the polarity reversed...most every time I've a buddy out hooking up and showing them how to work a new 110v wire feed, they were set up for fluxcore.
Can you do me a favor, and flip the piece you were welding on, upside down and let me see the backside of the material...by the heat lines I can see if there's penetration or not....you should see a bit of a gap (where your bead was laid) and then a significant blue streaks, starting dark and fading away from the weld line.
If you're sure the polarity is set correctly, I'd suggest turning up the wire speed as -besides the evidence of stop and go wires left-it appears you are trying to keep a bead running with not enough wire feeding..maybe clearer pics would show other wise, I'm not sure.
Again, I hope you don't take offense, I'm just going by the beads you laid down as I can see them.
As mentioned before-same in drilling, machining and welding, all good processes have that "frying bacon" sound...your goal is penetration and layer the welds so it looks like a stack of dimes tipped over...as you are practicing your beads and feel you get the "stack of dimes", flip the material over and look for penetration on the back side.
Please note if you're try to practice your beads on 1/2 plate at a low setting, you'll not be successful, you must set the welder up according to the material being welded to.
Oh.to whomever mentioned welding cans together...best pull out the tig...or show me someone who can weld todays Al cans with a feed welder
Is this a 110v welder?
If so, what brand, and where was it purchased?...i/e Home Depot or a welding supply store?
Did you purchase the gas setup separately?
I understand the 'Barn is helpful and encouraging, but there really isn't much nice about the beads you have laid down...I'm trying to be a realist here, I hope you don't take offense.
It appears by the amount of splatter beads you may have the polarity reversed...most every time I've a buddy out hooking up and showing them how to work a new 110v wire feed, they were set up for fluxcore.
Can you do me a favor, and flip the piece you were welding on, upside down and let me see the backside of the material...by the heat lines I can see if there's penetration or not....you should see a bit of a gap (where your bead was laid) and then a significant blue streaks, starting dark and fading away from the weld line.
If you're sure the polarity is set correctly, I'd suggest turning up the wire speed as -besides the evidence of stop and go wires left-it appears you are trying to keep a bead running with not enough wire feeding..maybe clearer pics would show other wise, I'm not sure.
Again, I hope you don't take offense, I'm just going by the beads you laid down as I can see them.
As mentioned before-same in drilling, machining and welding, all good processes have that "frying bacon" sound...your goal is penetration and layer the welds so it looks like a stack of dimes tipped over...as you are practicing your beads and feel you get the "stack of dimes", flip the material over and look for penetration on the back side.
Please note if you're try to practice your beads on 1/2 plate at a low setting, you'll not be successful, you must set the welder up according to the material being welded to.
Oh.to whomever mentioned welding cans together...best pull out the tig...or show me someone who can weld todays Al cans with a feed welder
Fredb_
Well-known member
I was a production welder and fabricator for about ten years in my younger days. My eyesight ain't what it once was, but I broke down recently and bought one of those new auto darkening helmets. They are great for auto body welding and small detail welding. Practice and technique will improve anybody's results. Kudos to you for learning this skill.
1949FORD
Senior Member
Mind if I ask a few questions?
Is this a 110v welder?
If so, what brand, and where was it purchased?...i/e Home Depot or a welding supply store?
Did you purchase the gas setup separately?
I understand the 'Barn is helpful and encouraging, but there really isn't much nice about the beads you have laid down...I'm trying to be a realist here, I hope you don't take offense.
It appears by the amount of splatter beads you may have the polarity reversed...most every time I've a buddy out hooking up and showing them how to work a new 110v wire feed, they were set up for fluxcore.
Can you do me a favor, and flip the piece you were welding on, upside down and let me see the backside of the material...by the heat lines I can see if there's penetration or not....you should see a bit of a gap (where your bead was laid) and then a significant blue streaks, starting dark and fading away from the weld line.
If you're sure the polarity is set correctly, I'd suggest turning up the wire speed as -besides the evidence of stop and go wires left-it appears you are trying to keep a bead running with not enough wire feeding..maybe clearer pics would show other wise, I'm not sure.
Again, I hope you don't take offense, I'm just going by the beads you laid down as I can see them.
As mentioned before-same in drilling, machining and welding, all good processes have that "frying bacon" sound...your goal is penetration and layer the welds so it looks like a stack of dimes tipped over...as you are practicing your beads and feel you get the "stack of dimes", flip the material over and look for penetration on the back side.
Please note if you're try to practice your beads on 1/2 plate at a low setting, you'll not be successful, you must set the welder up according to the material being welded to.
Oh.to whomever mentioned welding cans together...best pull out the tig...or show me someone who can weld todays Al cans with a feed welder
I can defiantly get a pic of the other side for you. Thanks for the advice, and no offense taken. Im just starting out and i see no reason to be offended
if i was a veteran at it, then yes i might have been 
But anyway, i can get the info you need!
BILL WZOREK
Well-known member
NOT THREAD JACKING:::
Mike B
I've heard about having the Polarity reversed /
How can you tell? /
Is there a rule of thumb, which Polarity to use on what you are welding,
Is this some thing you have to change back & forth depending on what you are welding?/
Lastly how do you tell if you need more or less heat or if it is the wire feed that has to be changed up or down?
Boy I could ask more BUT !!! ( I now turn you back to the original thread )
Mike B
I've heard about having the Polarity reversed /
How can you tell? /
Is there a rule of thumb, which Polarity to use on what you are welding,
Is this some thing you have to change back & forth depending on what you are welding?/
Lastly how do you tell if you need more or less heat or if it is the wire feed that has to be changed up or down?
Boy I could ask more BUT !!! ( I now turn you back to the original thread )
Bill, it's not something that is changed often, I'd have to look at mine, but pretty sure when running a gas the tap to the gun is Pos and the ground is -, and if you run fluxcore wire, you reverse the polarity inside the welder...there's no need to change the polariy unless you switch from gas to fluxcore or vice-versa.
Regarding wirefeed, in general, the higher the heat (i/e for thicker material) you have to increase the wire feed. If you don't, then the wire burns back o the tip and you end up starting, stopping etc...just never getting it right.
edit:
re: how do you know how much heat to use? Wire feeds are rated in volts DC, but have a total rating in amps...and I setup the same as I learned with stick welding 1 amp per 1/1000ths...i/e 1/8th material...is .125 thick, looking at the wire thickness being used and the tap setting in the welder, you'll get an estimated output in amps and adjust to start off accordingly to 125 amp.
Regarding wirefeed, in general, the higher the heat (i/e for thicker material) you have to increase the wire feed. If you don't, then the wire burns back o the tip and you end up starting, stopping etc...just never getting it right.
edit:
re: how do you know how much heat to use? Wire feeds are rated in volts DC, but have a total rating in amps...and I setup the same as I learned with stick welding 1 amp per 1/1000ths...i/e 1/8th material...is .125 thick, looking at the wire thickness being used and the tap setting in the welder, you'll get an estimated output in amps and adjust to start off accordingly to 125 amp.
Last edited:
BILL WZOREK
Well-known member
Mike B::
How can I put in a amp meter in to the welder to see what It is putting out ?
Even if it was temporary!!!
How can I put in a amp meter in to the welder to see what It is putting out ?
Even if it was temporary!!!
That wouldn't be practical Bill.
i/e either your manual, or on the inside panel of the welder, will say something like:
(assuming taps)
Tap 1 .023 wire 25-30amps .030 wire 30-35 amps
Tap 2 .023 wire 30-35 amp, .030 wire 35-40 amps
etc
I'll take a look at my MM35 a bit later and note them...I think full voltage with .035 wire is about 170 amps or so, been awhile since I opened it up to look.
i/e either your manual, or on the inside panel of the welder, will say something like:
(assuming taps)
Tap 1 .023 wire 25-30amps .030 wire 30-35 amps
Tap 2 .023 wire 30-35 amp, .030 wire 35-40 amps
etc
I'll take a look at my MM35 a bit later and note them...I think full voltage with .035 wire is about 170 amps or so, been awhile since I opened it up to look.
