Finally I have one

I think for the money you got a pretty good buy. Looks like a pretty solid body. I have seen sedans like yours bring 4-5 thousand on Ebay. Good luck with your project.
 
Wow mind blowing info thank you, I am about 10 miles from Milltown give or take a couple. The body is all wood and clad with steel and for the most part rock hard, roof is ? material. Was chicken wire used between the top material and the supports? On the right rear fender there are two holes for something but I want to think a reflector, no cowl lights and no holes. Spent most of Sunday digging out the upholstery and corn cobs, scraped what I could out of her and finally put the steamer to her to clean as much dirt and grease as possible then put the blower in to dry it. All the doors function although I had to do some prying on the back left door as the latch would not release. Got it all opened up and squirted Silikroil to every hinge and slide mechanism so I can open and close the doors now. Right rear door does have a problem as it appears to be out at the bottom. Wood seems to be real good except for the front driver side on the frame here it is a bit punkie. The wood that is OK could I spray a water seal on it or boiled linseed? Left rear fender got into an argument with something but nothing a hammer on dollie will not fix. Today I am going to get a hole opened in the pole shed for her. Oh I might mention on the drivers side cowl it says Mustang GT 350
 
If the oil is clear it most likely non-detergent oil.(unless it WAS recently changed) When non-detergent oil sits around all the dirt in settles out and drops to the bottom.Detergent oil holds onto all the old soot and such,and you can drain it all right out.The stuff that fell out of the non-detergent is the sludge in the bottom.Most guys will tell you to take the pan and valve chamber cover off to clean them out before starting.
 
I am confused as to the year of my girl, I do have a wire that runs up the right rear corner into the headliner (pretend there is one) above the rear window. The body of this car appears to be nailed onto a frame of wood, and it was mentioned I might have a Briggs Body? Can I replace the wood that sits on the frame without touching anything else. Is there a difference in body styles as I thought Ford did their own coach work. Also what is a this sentence that I read in different sites about 3 window.
Wow so many questions if I jump around I apologize my mind is not at 100% so at times it gets confused. Just remembered I have 21" wheels.
Thanks
Jim/Cushing WI
 
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Jim,

Briggs denotes the maker of the Body, i.e. Briggs Manufacturing. There may be a body/build number on a firewall tag or on the wood by the front scuff plate area. The parts are NOT interchangeable with a Murry body fordoor which has arched windows in the doors. As for the wood sills I will let someone else chime in on that one.

Mike
 
The hinges on the doors are a bit loose but the rear pass door is really sagging, how do I redo these hinges with out spending my grandsons allowance:)
 
Jimmy -

Congratulations on your find - and at a really good price too. Like Purdy related above, you have a mid-to late 1929 Briggs standard fordor - the town sedan would have had cowl lights and a cowl band - a different cowl section altogether because of the cowl band. The car in my Avatar started as a standard (not in quite as good a shape as your car appears to be), but I have since converted to a town sedan. The main problem that I see with keeping your car "as is" will be the difficulty with seating - other than that enjoy your car however you choose. Good luck on your new adventure!

Dick
 
Jim -

I missed your comment about replacing only the floor sills - in my opinion, if you start replacing wood I would encourage you to replace all of the wood, but that can quickly become a rather monumental task if you do most of the work yourself, and somewhat costly if you purchase wood kits and/or pay someone else a shop rate to install the wood for you. And once started, you may find that it proves beneficial to at least remove all of the rust from those areas of the body that come into direct contact with the wood - and then where do you stop - one thing will inevitably lead to another and another and soon you will have restored the car. I also have a '29 Murray sedan that my nephew and I stabilized the wood in with makeshift pine pieces to where the car is again driveable - my oldest daughter and her husband now have that car. I suppose it all depends on what your ultimate plans for the car are at this point. Again, good luck whatever route you choose.

Dick
 
Dick,
You will have to explain the seating, I am going to do "only" what I have to do. while waiting on the funds to buy a battery I am in the process of re doing the wiring with what I have laying around from scrapping out late model cars, hoping to have it done this weekend. The seats are just rusted broke metal so of no use except the scrap pile, will try and get over to my dads and hope the one in the pole shed still has good steel in the seats. There is a early Ford coupe that has the twin front seats might just grab them otherwise it will be 2x4's and plywood. I need to replace glass in three doors. I have to say that when I get it running I am not sure if I will keep it or sell it as my health is not the best. Mainly look at it this way that if it runs it would be a blast to cut the roof out and go out to Devils Lake ND and shoot rabbits on the move.
 
Wisconsinjimmy said:
Dick,
You will have to explain the seating, I am going to do "only" what I have to do. while waiting on the funds to buy a battery I am in the process of re doing the wiring with what I have laying around from scrapping out late model cars, hoping to have it done this weekend. The seats are just rusted broke metal so of no use except the scrap pile, will try and get over to my dads and hope the one in the pole shed still has good steel in the seats. There is a early Ford coupe that has the twin front seats might just grab them otherwise it will be 2x4's and plywood. I need to replace glass in three doors. I have to say that when I get it running I am not sure if I will keep it or sell it as my health is not the best. Mainly look at it this way that if it runs it would be a blast to cut the roof out and go out to Devils Lake ND and shoot rabbits on the move.
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Keep those springs. They may have a bracket, hook, fastener, coil, or something else you will need later on. I repeat my eariler advice: Don't throw anything away!
 
Welcome to the hobby. Hope you connect with some local Model A folks to help you out as you work your way through getting your Model A on the road. You might think about visiting the Model A Museum in Hickory Corners, MI next September 19-21 2014 for a Model A Extravaganza and see everything from museum quality cars to daily drivers. we will be having a swap meet in case you are looking for something.
 

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John,
I will keep the Hickory meet in mind and see what happens.
700RPM,
Yes I will hang the seat springs in the barn but these things are in really bad shape also I have never welded one of them up not sure if it is possible. Is there a riser that the rear seat is placed on or just the floor?
 
I have a 6 volt and a 12 volt A. If for show use 6, otherwise use whatever floats your boat. I have alternators on both my 6 and 12 for reliability but wont work if judged. 12 easiest for bulbs, batteries, and starting in cold. My club is tolerant of doing restoring at any level of perfection so that makes my life easy.
 
Mikeinnj said:
Your first link is "DOA" and the second link brings up pictures of a Ford Thunderbird.
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This thread is 14 months old. I think Jimmy's image posts expired. And we haven't seen him in a while, either. His last post was Jan 2014.
 
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