Final Hood Refinishing Question

[pgerhardt]

I got epoxy primer on my 29 hood panels today. They came out really good and I don't think I'll even need to use any primer surfacer on the side panels. I'll use some on the top panels so I can block sand to get that dead straight reflection , but keep it away from the center hinge area to keep the paint thickness down on the hinge.

My question is about final color sanding and rubbing out the color coat. I know from a previous request for info that the hood panels were not rubbed out on the inside. But what about the outside of the side panels with all those louvers? Did they take the time to rub out the hood side panels on the model A assembly line?

Thanks in advance for your response.

 

[Barber31]

Definitely take caution on the hinges. I wish I had not been in such a rush and payed more attention to the hinge areas. I would have noticed paint building up and not had 2 hinges scrape when I folded the hood installing it. Live and learn. I'll touch them up but at least I can pass on the word to be careful.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Two things need to be remembered when mimicking the original process or look. The experience level that Ford had when spraying these panels allowed for a very decent flow-out of lacquer. Enamels and Urethanes have a totally different texture than Nitrocellulose lacquer does. Second, the type of equipment and fixturing when they buffed them originally is different than today. If you spend the time to metalwork your hood, the Mil-thickness of your substrates will be very low. Nothing like opening a hood side on a Model-A that weighs 60 pounds due to it being full of fillers!!

 

[Kevin in NJ]

Are those repro sides?

I ask because they look flat in the picture. Repro 30-31 sides are flat including across the louvers. I have never worked with 28-29.

I know 30-31 sides are curved to match the front and rear body curves and the louvers have a curve to them too.

 

[pgerhardt]

Are those repro sides?

I ask because they look flat in the picture. Repro 30-31 sides are flat including across the louvers. I have never worked with 28-29.

No, that is the way 28-29 hood are.

 

[pgerhardt]

The hood top panels are in primer surfacer (except the hinge segments which I masked off to keep the paint thickness down in that area). Block sanding and color comes next.

 

[Big hammer]

Looking good keep the pictures coming

 

[pgerhardt]

Looking good keep the pictures coming

OK.
The good news is that the underside of the hood panels are green.
The bad news is that I ran out of Vagabond green so no more progress will occur until the new quart I ordered arrives.

 

[C26Pinelake]

why would it not be available the same day you order it? Not exactly hens teeth! Wayne

OK.
The good news is that the underside of the hood panels are green.
The bad news is that I ran out of Vagabond green so no more progress will occur until the new quart I ordered arrives.

 

[Larry Jenkins]

Two things need to be remembered when mimicking the original process or look. The experience level that Ford had when spraying these panels allowed for a very decent flow-out of lacquer. Enamels and Urethanes have a totally different texture than Nitrocellulose lacquer does. Second, the type of equipment and fixturing when they buffed them originally is different than today. If you spend the time to metalwork your hood, the Mil-thickness of your substrates will be very low. Nothing like opening a hood side on a Model-A that weighs 60 pounds due to it being full of fillers!!

Interesting comments, Brent..

I have always believed that the modern urethanes and other fancy stuff, will never have that factory look of Nitro cellulose lacquer.

Factory paint jobs were "almost" shiny or a little less or slightly less, depending on which plant built the car.

 

[pgerhardt]

Interesting comments, Brent..

I have always believed that the modern urethanes and other fancy stuff, will never have that factory look of Nitro cellulose lacquer.

Factory paint jobs were "almost" shiny or a little less or slightly less, depending on which plant built the car.

Not nitro cellulose, but I am using acrylic lacquer. Not perfect, but a better look IMHO than a urethane, and much more fun to spray without the worry of a two part system "going off" on you. When spraying lacquer and I get in the "zone", I am "one with the gun"!

 

[Larry Jenkins]

Not nitro cellulose, but I am using acrylic lacquer. Not perfect, but a better look IMHO than a urethane, and much more fun to spray without the worry of a two part system "going off" on you. When spraying lacquer and I get in the "zone", I am "one with the gun"!

Acrylic Lacquer:

22 seconds using a Zahn Cup
40 PSI at the gun (I used a Binks Model 7)
12" away
12" a second traverse speed
30 to 50% overlap
Edges first
Allow flash off before next coat.

What I wrote in my 2 part painting article for the Restorer some years ago. Back in the Acrylic Lacquer days..

Also said, "If you measure a paint job as 100, you are at 99 when you pick up the gun."

Yeah, lots of things have changed since then..

BTW.. This is my 1000th post. 85 last October.

 

[pgerhardt]

Two things need to be remembered when mimicking the original process or look. The experience level that Ford had when spraying these panels allowed for a very decent flow-out of lacquer.

Reading between the lines I gathered that a little rubbing out might be needed to get the same good look as un-rubbed out lacquer as laid down by experienced Ford painters back then.

So I did a little color sanding/buffing on the inside of my hood panels. Now I realize that when open both hood panels fold against each other so nobody will ever see it, but I'll know it looks good, and it reduced the paint thickness a bit.

We have already established that when it come to my restoration my initials are OCD!

 

[Squally]

Do you have any "before" pictures?

 

[pgerhardt]

Do you have any "before" pictures?

After painting, but before rubbing out:

 

[Terry NJ]

Very Nice! I did a lot of work on mine, a lot of work and they're almost as good as yours. Very nice job!
Terry