Filler putty for aluminum intake?

alexiskai

alexiskai

Well-known member
I've acquired a basic aluminum downdraft intake. There is a small divot in one of the mating surfaces that I would like to fill. If this were cast iron, I'd use JB Weld ExtremeHeat, but since it's aluminum I'm unsure what to use. Can anyone recommend a product that's both suitable for the purpose and inexpensive (since I'll probably only need it once or twice)? I'm thinking some kind of metallic paste or epoxy.
 
alexiskai said:
I've acquired a basic aluminum downdraft intake. There is a small divot in one of the mating surfaces that I would like to fill. If this were cast iron, I'd use JB Weld ExtremeHeat, but since it's aluminum I'm unsure what to use. Can anyone recommend a product that's both suitable for the purpose and inexpensive (since I'll probably only need it once or twice)? I'm thinking some kind of metallic paste or epoxy.
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A picture would be nice.
 
Alexiskai - silly question, I know, but have you considered having the divot filled with weld material, then having the mating surface decked? A good machine shop should be able to do both in-house. With aluminum decking is a good practice against leaks anyhow. True, it will be more expensive than filling with something, but that way you'll know it's done right and is permanent.

JayJay
 
JayJay said:
Alexiskai - silly question, I know, but have you considered having the divot filled with weld material, then having the mating surface decked? A good machine shop should be able to do both in-house. With aluminum decking is a good practice against leaks anyhow. True, it will be more expensive than filling with something, but that way you'll know it's done right and is permanent.

JayJay
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I thought about it, it kinda seems like overkill. Particularly for this type of intake, which doesn't bolt to the exhaust and thus doesn't have to be milled flat relative to it. But I'd consider it if other options don't pan out.
 
alexiskai said:
I thought about it, it kinda seems like overkill. Particularly for this type of intake, which doesn't bolt to the exhaust and thus doesn't have to be milled flat relative to it. But I'd consider it if other options don't pan out.
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You may not need the intake manifold true relative to the exhaust manifold (like the stock manifolds), but you do need the two intake ports true relative to each other (I presume the divot is on the engine mating surface, not the carburetor mating surface).

JayJay
 
JayJay said:
You may not need the intake manifold true relative to the exhaust manifold (like the stock manifolds), but you do need the two intake ports true relative to each other (I presume the divot is on the engine mating surface, not the carburetor mating surface).

JayJay
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Correct. Now that you mention it, I guess I will need to check it against the manifold I plan to use it with, because the thickness of the ears needs to be close on each one or the washers won't exert equal clamping force. And I should check it with a precision straightedge at the same time.
 
Used this stuff frequently. As long as it’s clean, it will stick and doesn’t seem to be affected by engine heat.
It sets hard and you can drill, mill, file, etc.
 

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Automotive RTV compounds, like permatex ultra will withstand the heat and fill the void, provided the void is captured.

Keeping the original exhaust manifold is a good idea, you need the heat transfer to prevent icing.
 
I wrote to JB Weld and they recommended using the original epoxy, which is good up to 550°. So I think I'm gonna go that direction since I already have that.

I'm planning to use an original manifold, but this intake doesn't have the transfer plate, so it'll have to be via convection and radiation instead.
 
why switch, when you already have a good product?


I used JB in a heater that had indirect flame, but got quite hot nonetheless.


that and a quarter repaired the jet.
 
I'd try a small dab of silicone on that divot. Vacuum will hold it in place if vacuum reaches it, it is flexible and withstands temperatures way in excess of what you will get on an inlet manifold. Heck, I've seen no manifold gaskets at all (exhaust included) on a Model A, just silicone and the car ran like a champ.
Don't over think it.
 
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