Figure this one out

adileo

adileo

Well-known member
Don't think this is a car issue but it's a 1939 Deluxe.

I put in a new 6 volt solenoid. If I just snug the nut on battery side of solenoid (re-connect the battery) there is no issue and car will start fine.

I tighten the nut on the battery side nut (real tight - reconnect the battery) it some how will completes the circuit and car will crank.

Why would tightening the nut on battery side of solenoid cause a complete circuit?:confused:

BTW this happened with two new solinoids......If I put the old one back in and tighten there is no issue and it works as designed
 
adileo said:
BTW this happened with two new solinoids......If I put the old one back in and tighten there is no issue and it works as designed
Click to expand...

How tight is REAL tight ?

Sorry for asking >> If the old one works fine Y are you changing it ??

My answer is by making it REAL tight you are pulling or twisting the stud till it makes contact on the inside of the solenoid completing the circuit .
 
I'm guessing as you are pulling it tight you are shifting the internals of the solenoid and completing the circuit.

Are you trying to tighten it like its a lug nut or something? 100 ft lbs? Electrical components need to be clean and tight, but there is a point of overdoing it. They are small and can be delicate, treat them appropriately.
 
Ok I'm stronger than I think :) it has a lock washer and I wanted it tight. To me I wasn't over doing it but it must be more delicate than I thought

To answer the other question I put new starter and wanted to do solinoid same time
 
To answer the other question I put new starter and wanted to do solinoid same time[/QUOTE]

Excellent answer .
 
A little late now but if you want to see what happened when you over tightened the stud.if you have bench grinder and grind the lip on cover and remove it you will see the stud once you see the way stud is shaped it will make sense.as when you over tightened it twisted allowing stud to contact the washer probably tilting it so as to contact the battery side stud.
 
Interesting I learn more from this site than I can recall from the years spent in college.

Thank you all
 
I've never ben in a college but I think I'd be at about a b+ level in flatheads it I were to take a test for flatheads. If I were in a class with all old Ron's and JWL's I might be on a c- level. HMMM could be a D. :)
 
If you want to insure a tight connection without affecting the stud's position, sandwich the cable connector between two nuts. Just a thought.
 
4dFord/SC said:
If you want to insure a tight connection without affecting the stud's position, sandwich the cable connector between two nuts. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Usually solenoids have a nut to hold the stud in place, and a second nut to tighten the lug against that nut. I use flat washers, no lock washers, if needed.
 
Put the lock washer on first and then the cable. Hold the cable as you tighten so it doesn't allow the stud to twist. This is especially helpful when you go to remove the cable. Just hold the cable and the nut comes right off. Otherwise the lock washer bites into the nut and the cable, turning the cable with the nut; sometimes turning the whole stud. This works especially well on generator terminals and other small wiring studs.
 
JSeery said:
But did you hold it with a wrench while you tighten the outer nut?
Click to expand...


When I first Installed it I did not hold based nut.

I just did that as you suggested and I got another half turn, connected battery and car remained silent. I feel much more comfortable with its tightness now ")

:DJS my hat is once again off to you.
 
A lot of replacement electrical components are very cheaply made in China and are only marginally operational with very thin insulation and electrical foil that has to be handled with kid gloves to work??? It is a shame.
 
I agree about the lightweight built electrical parts, but you still should not twist the connections on them without a way to keep the studs from turning. This includes generators (alternators), starters, etc.
 
Lock washer hardware note: For electrical connections, avoid use of "split" lock washers as they require relatively more force to compress and lock in-place. Instead, use an INTERNAL serrated lock washer - looks like a round flat washer with small teeth around inside hole - their small teeth require less compression force to "bite" on the connection. ;)
 
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