FI on my 1935 coupe

Nothing changed on the spark plugs or wires. Plugs are NKG B-6L and wires are a set of Belden edge premium 7mm from NAPA. Changed plug gap to .035. Would have liked taller tires but limited rim width and 16" wheels limits the availability of off the rack tires. Forgot to mention that the rear gears were changed out of 3.25 to 1
 
Pantera1973 said:
Would have liked taller tires but limited rim width and 16" wheels limits the availability of off the rack tires.
Click to expand...

I realize that your wheels are only 4" wide, but that doesn't limit you as much as you may think. The tire on the left in picture is a 7.50 R-16 mounted on a 4-1/2" wide '48 Ford wheel. There are 6.50 X 16s and 7.00 X 16s to choose from that you could consider. The tire/wheel on right is a 5.50 R-16 mounted on a 4"-wide 1940 Ford wheel. DD


244123
 
Thanks for the photos. I was limited on what to purchase due to wanting to retain the original wire wheels. Recommendations for wheel width have me already beyond specs as it is. For anyones information, I am running without tubes.
 
Pantera1973 said:
Thanks for the photos. I was limited on what to purchase due to wanting to retain the original wire wheels. Recommendations for wheel width have me already beyond specs as it is. For anyones information, I am running without tubes.
Click to expand...


The tires in picture are run tubeless. Here is the spec sheet for the next size smaller...7.00 R16. Note rim width suggested.....4" to 5"-wide! These are "Excelsior Stahl" radial tires. Click the link! DD


https://www.universaltire.com/excel...elsior-stahl-sport-blackwall-radial-tire.html
 
Mine is also built with junkyard parts: Ford EDIS ignition module, Cadillac northstar ignition coils, and throttle bodies from a Ducati motorcycle on an Edelbrock dual intake. The ECU is a Megasquirt 2. I had it running well last year and put about 1000 miles on it. It's definitely has a little extra power of the original 2 barrel and picked up 1-2 mpg. I've been fixing up the wiring over the last few weeks, so its not complete in this photo:


51071178116_b371d9381a_b.jpgE82769B9-561A-450B-B7BB-3CBD326CAB3F by kenhenry_06268, on Flickr


50212091747_6517af460c_b.jpg0A123251-307B-42A6-BCB7-1AFA70AF1D46 by kenhenry_06268, on Flickr
 
.

Man, talk about a gi-hugic "distributor". That is going to be a very sano set-up. The car sure is a 'looker', too! DD


51071178116_b371d9381a_b.jpg
 
Thanks! I spent about a year filling and block sanding it. The GM DIS coils just barely fit in there - should have plenty of juice!
 
Ken: This is IMPRESSIVE work. Took a lot of ingenuity and thought to comeup with this working concept. Lots of odd parts to bring together and then get them to actually work. What kind of fuel pressure are you involved with?


My system is more of a simple plug and play. Arnie
 
Thanks Arnie. It works well, but would have been less expensive and easier to go with the GM TBI or even a new Holley Sniper. But I have no idea how to reprogram GM ECUs! The fuel system pressure is around 40 psi. I added a Walbro pump to the stock sending unit in the tank and use the original fuel line as return.
 
Ken: Thanks for the reply. Getting the computer reprogrammed is not a problem. All you need to do is remove the chip and send it out to be done. My brother has the name and address of a party that does this. In regards to fuel pressure, the GM TBI operates between 9PSI and 12PSI. I'm on my 3rd fuel pump. First two appeared to be to low with 6PSI to about 7PSI or 8PSI. Third one didn't do much better but motor actually ran. Finally figured out the problem by replacing the fuel pressure gauge. First gauge was not accurate. Pressure now runs between 9PSI and 10PSI. As an aside one of my brother has a 39 Ford coupe with a 1962 Caddy and Fitech injection. It works OK but he is not impressed . This summer he is switching from a carburetor to a GM TBI system on his actual patina 1958 Ford 2 door station wagon. It has a Ford 390 backed by a C6
 
Just to let everyone know, the fuel injection on my coupe finally appears to be correctly functioning. While it ran out of the box, there were teething problems Low idle could be corrected by drilling out a pushed in blockage that covered and adjustment torx screw. A harder problem to solve was an intermittent motor stopping at red lights, stop signs and making sharp turns slowly. It gets pretty exciting wondering if the car will start again while stopped in traffic. First replace the throttle position sensor ($29) that did not solve the problem. Checked the internet and found this was a problem with lots of conversations. The answer appeared to be that the idle air control valve could be the problem. Replaced this item ($56) and problem MAYBE solved. Drove car the past two days about 20 miles and no stoppage.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top