Few questions.....New Flathead owner!!!

Wow guys, thanks for all the great responses!!! I will try slowing the shifts down and keep feeling for that "sweet spot". I'm sure this is only the beginning of the issues I will have to work through in learning the in's and out's of these old Fords. Let me ask you this, the car has a single Stromberg 97 carb on it. Any general recommendations for these carbs? Remember I'm in Denver so I'm doing research now trying to decide exactly what I want to do as far as adjusting for the elevation (up to this point the car has spent all it's known life in the Mid-West). Any and all comments welcome! I'll be posting some pics soon once I wash the muck from trailering it back here off!
 
Welcome to the Barn........you'll find that you can get just about any answer to any flathead question you might have.
Regarding the Stromberg 97, you'll probably find you're running rich in Denver, if it's spent it's life in the Midwest.
Max Musgrove, known on here as "Uncle Max" is the "go to" person for Stromberg 97's IMO.
He'll set you up with the right jets, etc. for your altitude.
Joe
 
Wonderful, I will reach out to "Uncle Max" then. Once again showing my ignorance, with these old flatheads does eveyone use regular unleaded gas with a lead additive or is there something else out there that I'm not aware of?
 
'35Coup said:
with these old flatheads does eveyone use regular unleaded gas with a lead additive or is there something else out there that I'm not aware of?
Click to expand...

I use the lowest octane gas I can find (read here for why http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating) and CD2 lead substitute that's extremely cheap compared to anything else. It's not made any more but still available on ebay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CD-2-Lead-Substitute-/200548489448?hash=item2eb19f18e8&vxp=mtr
 
Welcome to the barn 35 coup.
You might want to run some MMO & blue (marine grade sta-bil) thru your fuel once you get all cleaned out. I use it regularly. You may also want to put some MMO(marvel mystery oil) in the crankcase to help lube up the innards. Just follow the directions on the label. The reason I say blue sta-bil over/instead of red is because I think it is cheaper as you don't need as much. I can but a qt @ wally world for under $20.00 & they also carry the MMO in gallon jugs. Being that the engine hasn't run for a couple of years you may want to drizzle some MMO down the carb with the engine running to kinda give the valves a little lubrication. Have fun & drive the daylights out of it. Take lots of pics for us please!.
 
I've heard many guys say that they use MMO in the fuel as a substitute for leaded gas, would you agree? How much MMO to gas do you use?
 
Okay, with the nice weather we've been having out here in CO I've finally been able to put some good miles on the coupe once I changed the oil, drained out all the old gas and gave the '35 its first wash since its been home. Now that I'm warming up to the cars quirks and figuring it all out, I have a few more questions. The motor (and trans as far as I know) are '46 vintage. A few of you have said that with these ******'s you cannot shift back into first from second until the car is at a full stop......correct? Just want to make sure as I've been driving at really low speeds in 2nd. Haven't killed it out yet but it sure takes a while to rev back up after slowing down for a corner, as would be expected. Another queston, where exactly do you put in the trans fluid (59ab motor)? Thanks guys!!
 
you can get it into first gear but you cant be moving that fast and you have to double clutch. if you don't know how to do it you can learn. but be cairful when you do it . i can do it with out thinking about it it will take practice.
 
On rare occassion, if I'm real lucky, I can get it into 1st without a full dead stop. Nice thing is these flatheads have a lot of torque at low RPM's so they can "lug" pretty good,

The transmission oil is checked and added in a square headed plug about half way up the passenger side of the transmission. If the car hasn't been driven for over a year it would be well to change it. 90 weight is the corrrect oil for it. Fill it to that hole.
 
'35Coup said:
Wonderful, I will reach out to "Uncle Max" then. Once again showing my ignorance, with these old flatheads does eveyone use regular unleaded gas with a lead additive or is there something else out there that I'm not aware of?
Click to expand...

I run normal unleaded gas in mine and runs fine. and welcome to the barn dude! :D
 
MMO Just follow the directions on the label.
****** oil . There should be a square headed bolt/plug or one with a 1/2" (think socket ratchet) hole in the passenger side & on the bottom . The rear end also has like fittings for draining & filling . You can check the oil level(at least I do) by inserting your pinky/little finger,just so you can bend the first joint a bit, In the hole(Careful to not use too much force as not to get it stuck) & oil level should be 1/2" below the hole in the side.
 
I am not sure you know that the early transmissions did not have (like modern cars) syncros when going from second back to first. Is this your problem, if so learn to double clutch.

Charlie Stephens
 
To get my car to first gear, at any speed, I run the engine (clutch out) at the rpm it would go if it were in that gear, hold that RPM while I step on the clutch... It goes in...

Works well coasting up to a stop sign, can put it in first at 25 mph neat, too...
Note that I learned this when transmissions were about $25... On my parents car...
Karl
 
I put some chain saw two stroke oil in my gas tank once and while. The floor shift should be on the floor if it is a 36 transmission. If it is a 46 transmission and the shift lever is on the floor than it would have a conversion shift kit. I did not see pictures that you mentioned. They need to be kind of small to post on this site. I set my camera on the second smallest setting and load one picture at a time. Does it have mechanical or hydraulic brakes?
 
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