Hi - I recently bought a 1927 Ford touring, sitting on a model A frame with an 8BA flathead. It is a project that needs a lot of work to be completed and driven. The car did not come with fenders, but I am considering getting fenders for the car. Can someone tell me which fenders, aprons, and running boards would bolt onto my Touring body with possibly minor modifications? Not sure if fenders are universal in 26 and 27 or what will work. Thanks for the help. Brian
Fenders for 1927 Touring
- Thread starter dirtcop
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
When a car has been lowered, the running boards will be closer to the ground and may not look right plus the T braces wouldn't work with the A frame well. The difference in frames would add to the difficulty of installing model T aprons and front fenders. Fitting a hood would be a problem. The 32 grill shell appears to be taller than the top of the cowl nose where the hood would normally rest. Going hoodless with fenders may not be ideal.
Back in the earlier days of hot rodding, the fenders would have been abbreviated on the back and if any fenders were used on the front, they would have been some sort of motorcycle type fender attached to the brake backing plates with home fabricated brackets. This was common on roadster and tub body types back then. Keeping things simple with a decent look to it all was more common than going full fendered.
Here is a shot from the HAMB but I think is it has a T type frame. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=35389
Here is a T-Tub with a 32 frame.https://pressfrom.info/us/autos/cla...haeton-built-the-traditional-hot-rod-way.html
It always takes a lot of fabrication when building hot rods no matter if they are fendered or fenderless.
Back in the earlier days of hot rodding, the fenders would have been abbreviated on the back and if any fenders were used on the front, they would have been some sort of motorcycle type fender attached to the brake backing plates with home fabricated brackets. This was common on roadster and tub body types back then. Keeping things simple with a decent look to it all was more common than going full fendered.
Here is a shot from the HAMB but I think is it has a T type frame. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=35389
Here is a T-Tub with a 32 frame.https://pressfrom.info/us/autos/cla...haeton-built-the-traditional-hot-rod-way.html
It always takes a lot of fabrication when building hot rods no matter if they are fendered or fenderless.
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Rotorwrench - Thanks for the information and pictures of a couple ways of building a '27' Touring. I think that TUB is incredible, but the fender less car is nice too. I'm almost 72 years old and have been building hot rods for over 55 years, so I have a pretty firm grasp of work and money involved. Just exploring the possibility of putting fenders on my Touring! I have built relatively big money cars before (presently have a nice '40' Ford coupe), but just want to make a driver out of the Touring. I have found some 1927 roadster fenders (full set) and need to know if they would have originally fit on the Touring? Thanks
rotorwrench
Well-known member
I believe you need the sedan or touring type rear fenders. The roadster, coupe, and open pickup are only interchangeable to them. The front ones should all be similar enough. The model A frame will give you the largest work around due to the rails not being parallel. A lower radiator & grill shell would help or block the body up higher so you can get a better hood fit.
You can also consider using the A frame for a model A body set up and save the touring body for a custom straight rail frame set up. The T-springs were good for rods but the frame was way too flexible. The A was better with a good center cross member to strengthen it but the 32 was a lot better. Barney Navarro used Essex frame rails for his track T but it was fenderless. It took all the pounding he could give it for a lot of years. With your experience, you should be able to put something together. Those 1926/27 fenders are high dollar if you can find a good set.
You can also consider using the A frame for a model A body set up and save the touring body for a custom straight rail frame set up. The T-springs were good for rods but the frame was way too flexible. The A was better with a good center cross member to strengthen it but the 32 was a lot better. Barney Navarro used Essex frame rails for his track T but it was fenderless. It took all the pounding he could give it for a lot of years. With your experience, you should be able to put something together. Those 1926/27 fenders are high dollar if you can find a good set.
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dumb person
Well-known member
Or do for your fenders & hood like this guy did
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79916
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79916
Thanks for the responses and other interesting postings. I do like the '28' / '29' fenders on the '27' Touring, but prefer the stock Model T fenders. That picture of the TUB is just way too cool in my mind. The fenders that are for sale near me supposedly came from a '27' roadster and is a complete set for $500 (in the pictures they look like they are in pretty good condition - one tear on front fender and no rust or body problems). Sounds like the roadster rear fenders won't fit correctly - not sure of difference. I think I'll try to get them and see how everything works out. I am going to tear the car completely apart soon and get the mechanicals up to speed first. Thanks again, Brian
rotorwrench
Well-known member
If you look at the fenders for the sedan & touring they have an extra piece of sheetmetal to block off the open side at the rear inboard area. The others don't need that. If your doing custom anyway. you may be able to add the flat sheet metal block off areas to keep road crud off the bustle in the back. That's the major difference with a possible difference in the supports underneath. The front ones will likely work. You may have to try a set of T aprons to see if they can be made to fit. If not then try some Model A aprons. You will have to wing it on the running board supports after you mock it up. Model A supports might work. The front fender supports for a T are different than the model A so you might try some T supports first.
The guy using the A fenders still used coupe types on the back but getting fenders in the UK would be more difficult than it is here in the states. The A stuff would fit right on the frame so it solved his problems with less work. He abbreviated the rear fenders to make them look better to his taste. You can see that they are wider than T types and makes them look a bit oversized.
Fiberglass fenders are available but with no brace. Here is an example of a 26/27 sedan or touring rear fender. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233089054932
The guy using the A fenders still used coupe types on the back but getting fenders in the UK would be more difficult than it is here in the states. The A stuff would fit right on the frame so it solved his problems with less work. He abbreviated the rear fenders to make them look better to his taste. You can see that they are wider than T types and makes them look a bit oversized.
Fiberglass fenders are available but with no brace. Here is an example of a 26/27 sedan or touring rear fender. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233089054932
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Rotorwrench - Good suggestion on converting roadster rear fender to a Touring fender. Other than bottom bead, looks pretty straight forward. Attached is a picture of a Touring I really like. Sounds like you are an aircraft mechanic that works on prop jobs. Recently discovered "Ice Pilots" on tv. Gives special meaning to me because my father flew cargo planes over the Himalaya's during World War II. They hauled mostly gasoline in C-54's.
Attachments
rotorwrench
Well-known member
My pop was a copilot on the plane in my avatar. He was based at Celone airfield near Foggia, Italy and was in the 15th Air Force. I was a helicopter engine mechanic in the Texas Army National Guard for 6-years. I was already a helicopter mechanic when I joined that outfit here in SA.
Flying the Hump was a dangerous duty in that time frame. C-54s were more forgiving with all the engines they had but they loaded all the planes heavy for those trips over supporting B-24 bombers and the like. After they finally took the Mariana Islands then they could start taking fuel in by ship for the B-29s but that was relatively late in the war. We have to salute those guys that flew those long *** missions over the top of the world. That was not an easy duty for crews or mechanics. It was kind of like the Berlin air lift except they shot at you.
That photo would be a good plan to shoot for.
Flying the Hump was a dangerous duty in that time frame. C-54s were more forgiving with all the engines they had but they loaded all the planes heavy for those trips over supporting B-24 bombers and the like. After they finally took the Mariana Islands then they could start taking fuel in by ship for the B-29s but that was relatively late in the war. We have to salute those guys that flew those long *** missions over the top of the world. That was not an easy duty for crews or mechanics. It was kind of like the Berlin air lift except they shot at you.
That photo would be a good plan to shoot for.