fender welting fit...

39portlander

Well-known member
Would like some input on fitting welting for my rear fenders. I would have to say this has not been real fun to make it fit well and this was fitting it to the primed bed and un-painted fenders.

Just got my bed back from paint and getting the fenders out next week but need some ideas to help with this task. Scott
 
Hang your fenders loosely with the fender bolts. Then make "V" shaped cuts in the welting where the fender bolts are located. Slide the welting in nice and snug and tighten up the fender bolts a little at a time. Leave enough welting on the ends to fold over and hide the raw edge.
 
Agree with the procedure with the exception that I like to tape the bead to the fender while it's off the car and locate and install all the cutouts for the bolts and any necessary 'V' cuts in one shot. That way you don't have to continually remove and replace the bead to check fit.
 
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Hey "39",
Just did that too. I am sure the amount of crud in your fender seam makes all the difference with this task. "40"s right, loosen your bolts so there is room to place the beading in (past where you want it to end up), as you move from fender bolt to fender bolt it will settle. Tip: Do it on a nice day when you can put the car in the sun or use a heat source to soften the beading up.
I got lucky - my helper (who was on the top-side) has a good eye. Your helper moves it in and out so it ends up even. Be ready to make a second pass too. Loosen them again. Take it slow, don't force the process, make deep enough notches to allow the beading to make the curves. At the ends - left it run longer than you need, trim carefully later. Tip: Get your helper a plastic spreader to use under the bead and lift it out. Just don't have any tools in your hands that can scratch your paint.
 
Thanks for the input guys, always know were to get straight answers to a problem here on FordBarn.

This is a brand new Northern Classics bed and new Wescotts fenders, no crud yet. I keep the garage nice-N-warm:D Scott
 
All good advice so far.
I prefer to cut a wide "U" at each bolt location instead of a "V" to prevent a distinct bend in the welt and maintain the gentle even curve.
Handle the welt carefully as it can scratch paint.
 
I glue the welting to the body to the correct curve, double ends over and pop rivet ends with the smallest rivet I have. Actually a lot of the factory welting on my '41 was stapled to the metal.
 
cut the felting a little longer than needed, measure how much longer you cut it. slide the tubing out exact amount of how much longer you cut the felting and then cut the tubing. slide the tubing back into place. Cut the excess flange portion of material only leaving the material around the tubing portion. Roll the tubing material inside of the tubing to hide the end of the plastic tubing. Very teadious but worth the effort. Here are 2 pictures showing how I learned the hard way. A little super glue inside the tubing will hold the material in the rolled position.
 

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