Fender welt advice please

Heard

Heard

Well-known member
I'm finally ready to mount the front fenders on my '35 pickup and I need some help from you guys that have done this.

Does the welt go from end to end of the fender? If not, can someone post a pic please.

Any tips on installing the welt? I would think it should be glued in some fashion to the fender. I can see from the old welt (most of which is missing) that there are notches cut to fit it around the bolt holes and also I presume to allow it to follow the curvature of the fender.

Thanks,
Heard
 
Heard, the welt follows the entire fender. I don't recall on your truck but seem to envision the end going past the body. The welt ends at the body. Ford simply cut the ends off, nothing fancy. I fold the ends over for a more finished appearance.
The welt had slots for the bolts and with some applications, it had V slots every inch or so, so it would lay nicely. Those V slots are no doubt unnecessary
for your application.
I tend to get the fender bolted up but leave enough room to push the welt in place while tightening that area.
Make sense?
I would not consider gluing as how would you know you have it placed correctly?
 
Rubber cement is your friend here.
That is what I used. Also, check your fenders. My 1936 pickup front fenders had tiny holes which made me thing that there were small nails that held the fender welt in place.
But, still used the rubber cement.
 
Front fenders on some models, some years did have the welt nailed to it.
I know of no rear fenders that were nailed.

With respect, I disagree with the advice of using any adhesives.
 
Heard -

Third Gen sells the exactly correct fender welting

I'd hesitate to use glue as I needed to slightly adjust mine when putting the fenders on.

There is a cutout notch for each bolt. I've attached the drawing for the fender to running board welting for a 1935-36 big truck so you can see the shape of the cuts. The exact placement of these may be slightly different on your pickup.

Like someone already mentioned, the welting ends are cut flush. You also may have to cut a a few additional slits in the fender welting to allow it to smoothly bend to follow the curve shape of your fenders.

The small holes (1/8" dia.?) are for split rivets to hold the fender welting in place on the fender, primarily where there are curves or changes in direction. Third Gen also sells a small bag of these split rivets (see the page from their website). I found that installing these was worth the effort. The split rivets are also used to hold the anti-squeak onto the running boards - at least for trucks. Just have to look for the tiny holes.

Dave
 

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Heard: DON'T USE ANY ADHESIVE. IT WILL STICK TO YOUR PAINT AND MAKE ADJUSTMENT AND REMOVAL OF THE FENDER WELT VERY DIFFICULT.
 
Heard, on my 1937 pickup I used blue tape attached to the inner fender to mark approximate hole locations, transferred that to the fender welt. I them started with the fender loosely bolted installing the welt from the back forward to the front, tightening the bolts as I progressed. Worked out well!
 
IF it helps, I used 6lb stren fishing line looped thru the bolt holes so that I had something to "potentially" pull on to snug up the welting and keep it smooth with NO dips "IF" need be as we tightened the fender up....when finished it pulls out from one side or the other.
 
I sew little straps on the bottom edges in key places to tug on while tightening then cut them off when done. Having a good upholstery type machine helps.
 
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I guess no one understands rubber cement. It never dries completely and can be rolled off with a finger.
Why use it to hold the welting? Because you can pull it off and reset it the welting. Think post-it notes.
Available at most office supply businesses.
 
Use a double sided rubber tape 1/2 so that the welt is sandwiched, Also at the rear slot v in when the fender is loose slot it back on its self from under then tighten the bolts ,makes a neat finish
 
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