Fender Repair

Smitty

Smitty

Well-known member
What is the best way to repair crack in the bead of a 1930 front fender. Guessing will first need to replace a section of wired edge..what /where would I find the proper wire I have always been told that the crack will return along a welded repair..

Thanks, Steve
 
Smitty said:
What is the best way to repair crack in the bead of a 1930 front fender. Guessing will first need to replace a section of wired edge..what /where would I find the proper wire I have always been told that the crack will return along a welded repair..

Thanks, Steve
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Where is Flop when we need him?

Pluck
 
First you need to set up your frame and fender brackets and such. Otherwise you will mess up the fenders in a way that it might never fit. (note I am positive you will mess up the fender).

The repair is a matter of peeling back the bead and sectioning in a piece of wire where the original was broken. You want the welds to not be at the same place as the crack. Then you can bring the crack together and weld it up or put your patch in place. Depends on what you have. If it was welded before then you have to put in a patch.

Hints on fender fixin
 
I never saw a fender that wasn't cracked (Except a couple of NOS) You can take it to the bank, if it's been on a car, it's been cracked. I believe it's a combination of the engine vibration creating a moment along with poor quality of the roads added to the dies and shapes of the material is being forced into, creating a weak spot. I said the hell with it and got 1/4 inch rod and welded 1" on 3" the length of the fender. With some judicious grinding and stress relieving, I believe I have a fender that is almost indestructable. Maybe they wont fit?
Terry




BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
I could not get the link above to work so here it is again...
http://modelahouse.com/tech/fender/index.html

With regard to the wire, I use .125 wire rod available at large metal suppliers. I would caution against using the cheap wire found in the hardware department of mass merchandiser stores because of the strength.
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Just completed this tool for use on an upcoming fender project.
I am trying to get away from just collecting tools and machines and actually get something done, but it is proving to be more difficult as I try to move forward. As I make a decision as what I want to try to get done, my mind just seems to wander to......'What I really need to do this right is......' and on it goes. I want to get more skilled in fabricating aluminum panels and decided that I need to increase my skills in aluminum welding. I work alone most often, and am having trouble holding more than one part at a time to weld. I have been working on gathering parts for a long time. I had the 'joints' cut on the water jet, one friend gave me some leftover threaded rods, Mike Yurko from Front Row Motorsports added some parts and pieces and welded the balls onto the rod ends. The heavy bases were given to me from the scrap pile of the water jet guy. The nice handles that I bought are not large enough to be able to tighten tight enough to hold the entire length in place.

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RockHillWill, I've thought about making a helping hand also, and figure the ball joints could only supply enough grip for light objects. For fenders I'd want to use round flat plates, such as used in the multiplate clutch, or a friction shock. Of course then you'd need to have 3 joints to cover the needed movement.
 
I'd imagine that if you're not too concerned about the looks of the underside of the fender, you could just weld a gusset over the crack to reinforce it. Won't pass the judging standards, but would probably get the job done.
 
Will N said:
I'd imagine that if you're not too concerned about the looks of the underside of the fender, you could just weld a gusset over the crack to reinforce it. Won't pass the judging standards, but would probably get the job done.
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I would think he has it done by now as he asked the question 5 years ago.
 
You can get 1/8" stainless steel piano wire at a hobby store that deals in r/c planes.
It's used to make landing gear structures.
just my W.A.G. at tthe question
JB
 
I have done probably 20 sets of A fenders. Many of these achieving AACA seniors and even one set winning a Henry. First straighten to bead side of the fender to as close to perfect as possible. then peel back the inner lip to expose the broken wire. Cut a piece of the wire out at least 1/2" from either side of the crack. Cut a new section of wire. I use 1/8" steel welding wire, like one would use with a Oxo-Acetelene welder. Have a lot left from decades ago. Weld the new section to the ends of the cut wire using a Mig or Tig welder. be careful not to weld the wire to the sheet metal. Reform the sheet metal back over the wire and carefully weld the crack shut. Again try not to weld the wire to the sheet metal. Carefully grind the weld down being very careful not to grind the weld or surrounding metal this. If you do it will just crack again. I then use the edge of a flat file to duplicate the groves that run along the edge of the undamaged areas. If done carefully this repair will last forever.
 
Let me stir the pot a little. I don't think the wire has any structural capacity, it is not attached to the sheet metal other than friction, therefore welding, other than to satisfy ones mind, in not necessary. I think the only reason for the wire was to form the bead during the manufacturing process.
 
the wire needs to be in the bead of the fender for structural integrity if it is not in there the fender WILL crack. and yes you want the wire to float or by able to move other wise the fender could crack right at your weld. I also believe in not welding the wire in the same spot as I weld the fender.
 
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