Feel vibration around 50mph

It could be the drive shaft. It may be bent a hair. Jack it up and put a indicator on it and see if its bent. I bought a new car back in the 70's. It had a two piece driveshaft and one of them was bent and it caused a vibration. Once they replaced it the vibration went away. Just a thought.
Did you have to replace the king pins. I was reading you could take the spindles to a machine shop and have them remove them and ream them for new bushings. I don't know if they actually put the new king pins in.
 
It could be the drive shaft. It may be bent a hair. Jack it up and put a indicator on it and see if its bent. I bought a new car back in the 70's. It had a two piece driveshaft and one of them was bent and it caused a vibration. Once they replaced it the vibration went away. Just a thought.
Did you have to replace the king pins. I was reading you could take the spindles to a machine shop and have them remove them and ream them for new bushings. I don't know if they actually put the new king pins in.

The bushings should be reamed/honed to fit the king pins. If done this way, like on a Sunnen hone, the king pins are a push fit so no reason you couldn't do it at home once the bushings were replaced and sized properly
 
Fixing to go by NAPA and see if they can get the parts and go by the machine shop and see what they can do. Hope I can fix it myself.
It's a wonder the car drives as good as it does. Goes straight as an arrow down the road. I wouldn't have thought anything like this is wrong.
Also going to ask them about a clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw out bearing.
 
I goofed.
Ignore the info. I posted below as it does not apply to a 1950 Ford.


had that same problem with my 40 Ford in 2017. Turns out I had to replace the torque tube center bearing. That bearing keeps the solid driveshaft from wobbling. After market center bearing is available from Skip Haney here on Fordbarn. Replace all the other parts while you have the torque tube out, including the clamshell O-ring. Here's some valuable info.:
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/printthread.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=8089
and
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2512552285...KXciHYI64jI9xq9OvaUp25DWCM|tkp:Bk9SR5To9OPqZA
and
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335030&highlight=torque+tube+center+bearing
 

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Well I still feel a vibration through the steering wheel from 40 or so above. I replaced the universal joints. I don't feel any vibration in the seat or floor. I think the universal joints took care of that.
I did have a outer tie rod end. on the right side wore out and I replaced that and I do have a little slack in the King pin in the right front.
I had the front tires balanced yesterday. They were off a hair. Didn't really seem to make any difference.
I got up to about 60 and put it in neutral and I could feel the vibration until I got back down to around 40.
I said something about the tires. It has new radials on it but someone said that shouldn't make any difference.
I am going to get the king pins replaced and let them check the front end.
Also was thinking for this old of a car it might be normal. Going to keep checking on it. Have a buddy that has a 51. I'd like to drive it but it's not running.
 
Went for a 75 mile ride today. Really tried to notice what it was doing. Up to 40mph it is perfect. Once I get over 40 a hair I can start to feel it. The faster I go the worse it seems to get. If I just let off on the gas I can feel it back down to 40. It is not a bounce to me like a tire would feel. Like I said I did have the front tires balanced. I just don't know.
I am going to have the king pins replaced week after next but I don't think even that would do what It's doing. I replaced the right outer and I am going to replace the left outer tomorrow. Probably go ahead and put new wheel bearings in both sides. Looks like it has new shocks.
Need to figure it out. Hate to drive it like this.
 
Talked to a mechanic today. He said tires. I am going to rotate them the next couple of days and see if that makes any difference.
These dang radials on this old car just worry me.
 
It would be really nice if you could try another set of tires and rims on the car. Had a customer with a F350 that nearly drove us nuts with a vibration. Tried another set of tires and rims and the vibration went away. Not saying that's it but it would eliminate that possibility.
 
That would be nice. I have a friend that has couple of shoeboxes. I may ask him if he has a couple I could borrow and put on the front. It feels like it's all coming for the front. That's a good idea. Thanks
 
Bullerman, i read your initial post again,and when you said you got the car up to 50mph and you let off the gas the vibe went away,like completely? if so sounds more like a mechanical issue. on the other hand could be a verry poorly built tire. in my experience with severly out of round tires in the late 1970s i ran a 4wheel drive parts and acc shop and half the tires i sold and mounted took alot of weights to balance.now possibly the wheels and or drums may have not been true. the modern radials that i purchased and have on my '37 fordor with the oe wide five wheels for 2 yrs havent leaked any air and havent been balanced either and they do not vibrate. ??? Tom.
 
Reread my post again. I believe I have two problems. I think the universal joints fixed part of problem. I don't really feel anything in the seat and floorboard. I think the day I changed them and went for a short ride I didn't really notice the vibration from the from of the car.
I am taking it in next week to have the king pins replaced. These guys are really good and I feel like they will be able to tell me if it's a tire or something else.
I replaced the left front outer tie rod today. I think I will rotate the tires and just see if it makes any difference. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Update. Got it back from the shop. Ended up putting in new king pins and bushings on both sides. Front end alignment and two new front tires on the front. Didn't completely fix the problem.
I got to thinking about the driveshaft wondering if it may be bent. Took it to the shop.one of the caps in the slip yoke spins. They said that was my problem.
I have found a good yoke
I ended up talking the cap just to try it. Car seems to drive the same to me. No more or no less vibration.
I may end up having a new driveshaft made. Hate to pay the money and the car drives the same way.
Still fighting the clutch issues. I think I may change the motor and transmission mounts to make sure that is not having anything to do with it.
 
I have been following your trials and tribulations with this, and am impressed at your persistence in tracking down your problems. Multiple things going on at the same time can be frustrating, but keep at it and soon they'll all be gone. At this time, I agree with replacing the engine and transmission mounts. I would advise trying to get quality name-brand mounts.

As the owner of a well-sorted '51 club coupe, I can tell you these cars can be a pleasure to own and drive, and are modern enough to be practical as a daily driver. I got my car in 1987 and went through a few frustrating periods as you have. By the mid-nineties, I was able to afford the car of my dreams, a '36 3-window coupe with a 276" Merc, a '39 box and hydraulic brakes along with the rest of hot rodder's bag of tricks. After it was done, I drove it for a couple of years, and found it a little too "antiquated" for the way I wanted to use it. Luckily, I had not sold the '51, so down the road went the '36. I still have the '51 and have upgraded the engine to give me a bit more power, and I still use and enjoy it.
 
Haven't posted back. Ended up having king pins and bushings replaced. Alignment and new front tires. In my opinion it's still not right.
Did find out one of the caps on the slip yoke wasn't tight. Two different machine shops and I have it back. I ended up tack welding the cap so it couldn't move just to see if itade any difference. I couldn't tell it did. I checked the driveshaft with my indicator. Best I can tell it's out about .020 in the middle. The guy at the driveshaft shop said that's not my problem.
I wanted him to drive the car and see what he thinks. I am beginning to believe there is nothing wrong with that part other than it's a old car. I may be asking to much.
I need to concern myself more with the shudder and vibration part on take off. When it quits racing I am going to change the motor mounts just to make sure that does have anything to do with it.
 
... I am beginning to believe there is nothing wrong with that part other than it's a old car....
I don't agree with this; these cars drive very well when everything is right. Keep at it; you'll figure it out.

The only thing I can offer at this point is that it may be time to take a short "vacation" from the car. Sometimes we get too close and "can't see the forest for the trees". I know it's helped me.
 
Hi Bullerman, I have been following your posts. I too like the way you stick to it! When sorted out, I think you'll enjoy driving your shoebox Ford. I have had several of these old Fords over the years. I have found that the '50 Ford that I have drives probably better than any of them. Has overdrive and routinely drive it between 60-70 mph with no issues. My '51 also drives great until I get to around 60 mph and then experience a little vibration. Both have radials. Probably a good tire balancing will take care of the vibration on the '51.

Wish you luck! Stay safe!
Pat
 

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Hi Bullerman, I have been following your posts. I too like the way you stick to it! When sorted out, I think you'll enjoy driving your shoebox Ford. I have had several of these old Fords over the years. I have found that the '50 Ford that I have drives probably better than any of them. Has overdrive and routinely drive it between 60-70 mph with no issues. My '51 also drives great until I get to around 60 mph and then experience a little vibration. Both have radials. Probably a good tire balancing will take care of the vibration on the '51.

Wish you luck! Stay safe!
Pat
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A lot of older cars the wheel is centered by the lugs— the hole in the center is not always the real center, modern balancing machines are usually set up hub centering with cones and lug centering rims need a adapter that is bolted to the wheel to allow proper balancing a lug centered wheel.
 
A lot of older cars the wheel is centered by the lugs— the hole in the center is not always the real center, modern balancing machines are usually set up hub centering with cones and lug centering rims need a adapter that is bolted to the wheel to allow proper balancing a lug centered wheel.

Thank you for that. What I like about this place; learn something new every day!!!
 
If you go to the trouble of removing the flywheel, replace the pressure plate and plate with a 6 cylinder Falcon. But you'll have to have the flywheel redrilled to take the Falcon pressure plate. Original clutch mechanism can be retained. AND the clutch will be lighter too.
 
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