FE valve cover hold downs

J

JimNNN

Well-known member
Hi. I have my valve covers off for a general engine bay refurb. I'll be replacing the old decrepit hardened valve cover gaskets with new rubber gaskets, which should help reduce the oil leakage I've been having at the valve covers, but I've seen a FEW products that claim to help reduce leakage even more.

1 - One is the valve cover hold-down bracket which you put at the fastening bolts for the valve cover. It's supposed to spread the pressure of the fastener over a greater area for even distribution.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-down-assortment-3in-and-5-in-42084/5015057-p




2. Another is a very thick gasket available from JEGS. It's rubber, but thicker than the more standard rubber gaskets I bought (Fel Pro.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_OboptO7Ac



3. Also, studs rather than bolts have been promoted to help leaks.


Do any of these products work? Do you have alternate suggestions? Thanks
 
I don't think studs help any better than bolts. Your first item seems to be the better of the choices, although I don't know how good the thicker gasket would be. I use the ones similar to the ones below on my Ford small block, and they do the trick (these are Mr. Gasket)
JimNNN said:
Hi. I have my valve covers off for a general engine bay refurb. I'll be replacing the old decrepit hardened valve cover gaskets with new rubber gaskets, which should help reduce the oil leakage I've been having at the valve covers, but I've seen a FEW products that claim to help reduce leakage even more.

1 - One is the valve cover hold-down bracket which you put at the fastening bolts for the valve cover. It's supposed to spread the pressure of the fastener over a greater area for even distribution.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-down-assortment-3in-and-5-in-42084/5015057-p




2. Another is a very thick gasket available from JEGS. It's rubber, but thicker than the more standard rubber gaskets I bought (Fel Pro.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_OboptO7Ac



3. Also, studs rather than bolts have been promoted to help leaks.


Do any of these products work? Do you have alternate suggestions? Thanks
Click to expand...
 

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OEM FE-series didn't use spreaders. The key to reducing leaks is to make sure the mounting surface/rim of the valve cover is F L A T - that may mean working over the area around the bolt holes with a hammer/dolly, use a vise and some wood blocks, etc, to work back into shape, and when installing do NOT overtighten them. Composition rubber/cork gaskets or neoprene gaskets may benefit from an application of non-hardening sealer, but generally the gaskets should seal if installed correctly. Did I remember to mention do NOT overtighten the bolts?
 
As Alan says, DON"T OVER TIGHTEN! Every leaking FE I have encountered has had the valve cover bolts tightened down to 9000 ftlbs! Look at it side ways and you'll most likely see the area around the bolts holes pulled above the sealing edge. Get the valve cover straight on it's edge, my experience with getting these right is cork with a touch of non hardening sealer on the cover side and a flat washer.

Forgot one last thing. Check to see it the intake gasket is sticking up above the edge, if so trim it with a sharp knife or gasket scrapper so the mating surface between the head and the intake are flush.
 
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Ford Blue Blood _ five stars. Cover bolt holes all deformed from excessive torque. Nothing wrong with cork in which I always paint grease with an acid brush on both sides.
sam
 
[FONT=&quot]Thanks very much, everyone. Yes, the bolts have definitely been over-tightened by previous owners; every bolt hole is consistently bulged downward at a uniform depth. So uniform, in fact, that I thought maybe the valve covers came from the factory that way. Apparently not. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I have a little time and effort invested in these valve covers so far (I've de-rusted, stripped them, then primered them with VHT and cured them) so I guess a little more is no big deal. I'll try to flatten the bulges per your suggestions. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]My thinking: Since the metal around the bolt holes have already been stressed with over-torquing and reshaping back to normal, it might make sense to also use the hold downs like Paul suggested. I'm worried the stressed areas will want to bulge down again at even normal torque. The units he suggested are flat and would more evenly distribute the downward fastener pressure to areas beyond the stressed metal at the bolt holes. Your thoughts? [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]BTW, this is a 390 from a later '60's Mercury. [/FONT]
 
estout81 said:
Motor's manual says 4-7 FT LBS.
Click to expand...


Thanks, estout 81! You anticipated my next question.


As it turns out, though, after fiddling around with the project, giving it some thought and shopping online, I've decided to get some new decent quality Ansen valve covers. I was able to improve the surface of the existing covers to some degree, but after some initial work, I can tell the seal will be mediocre at best, and I want the leaks to stop!



I appreciate everyone's helpful information and input, as it helped me decide not to take the project with the existing covers any further.
 
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