Failed Start After Carb Rebuild

That makes sense. I ran the starter while my friend set the points. He was using a timing light, but no effort was made with the timing pin on the front of the timing cover. I'll bet doing that would help a lot.
 
I want that battery!!! Loose the air filter first and do as the others have said about the plugs and crank it over for a few seconds with them out to get it dry in there. And use the timing pin and set the dizzy cam for #1 as in the instructions. The use of a 6 volt light to set the timing and check for the light to come on I think with 1 click or 2 on the advance lever. After the plugs are back in, turn the gas stop on, turn on the switch, pull the choke for one or two revolutions of the engine, release choke and hopefully it started within 2-3 seconds. If not, check and see if the carb is wet or dripping. Read the instructions given by others above. Hang in there, (only not so long as earlier on the starter) and you'll have it running in no time. If not, blame your carb re-builder.
 
I noticed the throttle lever doesn't like it is pulled down enough. It might be my 89 year old eyes. Correct me if I am wrong. Tony
 
The starters are pretty durable. You'll wear out the battery long before you'll kill a Model A starter. In a pinch you can move your car just on starter power.
 
Check the points gap first. I like.022. Then check the timing per Marcos inst. Hold the coil wire 1/4 inch away from a head nut do you get a good blue spark?
 
I'm definitely redoing the timing. Part of the problem is that my widowed mother's former boyfriend did some work on the car. He put on the distributor, and I assumed that he did the timing at the same time. Now I'm pretty sure he didn't. I don't know what else he did. Zero assumptions from now on!
 
kcav8or said:
After some of the first comments, I agree about the choking. I'm used to some other motors that required a lot of choking when cold. They would die if you let off the choke before it was warmed up. Will have to unlearn that habit.
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Modern carbs have a "choke pulloff" that partially opens the choke plate as soon a the engine fires. Then the choke plate remains partially open to supply rich mixture until warmed up. Then plate opens to end enrichment cycle. This is all done by the carb mechanisms.

1. With Model A the driver must open the choke as soon as the engine fires (1 or 2 seconds usually). If the choke is used too long (more that a few seconds) the engine floods.

2. The GAV on the Model A supplies a rich mixture to keep engine running during warmup. If GAV is not opened one turn during cold weather the engine will die right after starting and not keep running.

Note: the choke has no effect unless the engine is turning. Vacuum must be present to draw in the gasoline.

As mentioned above it looks like the carb is too lean judging from the extended use of the choke in the video. If carb was working there should be gas running out of the throat with that much choking.

Might be time to borrow a known good working carb.
 
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Benson said:
1. With Model A the driver must open the choke as soon as the engine fires (1 or 2 seconds usually). If the choke is used too long (more that a few seconds) the engine floods.
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I never choke that long. When stone cold I hold it for two compression strokes and release. They start as soon as I release.
 
Did you get it started? If timed correctly it should start on the second stroke as Marco says. Retard the spark with the left lever all the way up, advance the throttle a little, close off the gav by turning all the way clockwise and then open up one turn, pull the choke all the way closed, hit the starter, and then immediately let go of the choke. Should start right up. What did you do on the tilly? If not check to see you have gas in the bowl of the carb then recheck the timing. I never had much luck with setting the timing the manual way. Once I get it running I put a timing light on it and check it out. I have installed a timing gauge and a mark on the pulley.

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexascitrus/home/tilly-carburetors
 
Tomorrow I will work on the timing and give it another shot. As for the Tilly, I soaked it in cleaner and did a complete rebuild, including re-flattening the gasket surfaces. All of the brass parts except the float were replaced. The float was actually in excellent condition, anyway.
 
kcav8or said:
Tomorrow I will work on the timing and give it another shot. As for the Tilly, I soaked it in cleaner and did a complete rebuild, including re-flattening the gasket surfaces. All of the brass parts except the float were replaced. The float was actually in excellent condition, anyway.
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You will probably find that the timing hole in the cam gear is small and hard to find thru the viewing hole. When you find it give it a dab of white paint for next time. If all else fails you can take off the gear cover and replace it when you find top dead center. Holding you finger over the #1 spark plug hole is an easy way to find top dead center.

Another important item for tillys is pulling out the lead plugs and welsh plug to make sure all the hidden passages are cleaned out. Be sure you dip the float in boiling water to check for leaks. I've restored 25+ of them. You were lucky to get all the brass parts out without having to drill some of them out.

There is no need to turn over the starter more than a few times. If it doesn't start either there is something not set correctly like timing or you haven't followed the Model A starting procedure correctly.

Some will say it is not necessary but I always check the timing with a light even after following the manual method.

When I first got a Model A I had trouble starting it. Not knowing the GAV is the choke as well as mixture was one reason.
 
Success! It was the timing. Once we put the timing pin into the timing gear, it was clear that the distributor wasn't set even close. I'm surprised it fired at all. There's a lot more to do, and a lot more refinement to the starting technique, but it ran long enough to make the exhaust pipe glow. (I know, too lean on the mixture!) A few more attempts, and we'll get things refined well enough to take it for a drive.

It's also clear that I need all new exhaust components. Leaks all over the place! And the first attempt made the shop look like a foggy day in London, but later attempts were better.
 
If the exhaust manifold/pipe glowed you have more than a lean condition. The timing is still not right. It is too late. Late timing will also give you a much louder exhaust note than it is supposed to be as well.

I just worked on a '59 Caddy for a guy who said it wasn't running right. Just listening at the rear of the car told me what was wrong...late timing...of course you have to know what it is supposed to sound like....
 
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After you start the engine you need to advance the spark lever. Do you have a copy of the owners manual? It would be a good start to read on how to operate your car. You can buy reprints. I would also get a full size (not the small size) copy of the Ford Service Bulletins also available in reprint. The bulletins will tell you how to make all your adjustments and repairs. For originality when it comes time to replace or restore parts get a copy of the Model A Ford Judging Standards published by the national clubs.
 
The trailing edge of the rotor tip needs to point exactly at the number one contact in the distributor cap with NO clockwise backlash, when the cam screw is tightened. It may take several tries to get it right because when the cam screw is tightened it has a tendency to move the points cam in the clockwise direction, adding backlash in the wrong direction. There will be backlash, (rotational movement at the distributor shaft) as long as all of the backlash is in the counter clockwise direction after the cam screw is tightened, you will be close. Points gap effects timing, more gap advances, less gap retards . A points gap, anywhere from .018 to .022 will run pretty good. For exact timing, the points should be just ready to open when the timing pin drops in place with the spark lever fully retarded. Most seem to use a happy medium gap of .020 . I like mine slightly advanced and set the points gap at .022 . This is as as advanced as you can go without starter kickback. Retarded timing causes the manifolds to run way hot and throttle response to be labored . Performance will be very weak, it also causes overheating. When setting points and timing, it is always best to remove all of the spark plugs. Fighting compression makes timing difficult. When it nears the timing mark, compression increases causing you to go past the timing mark or high cam on the points cam.
 
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