Thinking about replacing my three speed (that I already converted to on the floor)with a Factory 4 speed. I do not want to change out everything. Just swap transmissions. I have a 56 Y block 292 motor in the truck...My question is : What year 4 speeds will bolt right into my "Y" block three speed bell housing and will the three speed clutch,etc work? I am not afraid of any change to the driveshaft if that need to be done. Any direction would be much appreciated and help locating one.
F100 4 speed
- Thread starter ahshoe
- Start date
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Are you hoping to get lower rpm at road speeds?
Top gear in either transmission will be the same, 1:1.
A 4spd just has another step to get there, unless it has an overdrive gear.
If you're hauling loads with the truck the gear changes will be closer together relative to engine rpm with the 4spd.
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Top gear in either transmission will be the same, 1:1.
A 4spd just has another step to get there, unless it has an overdrive gear.
If you're hauling loads with the truck the gear changes will be closer together relative to engine rpm with the 4spd.
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Ole Don
Well-known member
For a work truck in the woods to hauling fire wood, the HD four speed T98 is perfect. For a fun truck on cruise night, step up to a five speed from a V6 S10, the T5. The ratios are perfect, and include an overdrive. A good rear ratio with the T5 is 3.73 or 3.78. You will have the fun of rowing the gears, and at 70 the RPM will be about 2250.
paul2748
Well-known member
The T-10's used in the early 60's Fords should bolt up, but if a truck you my have to make up an extended pilot bearing for the input shaft. The sedan bells are not as deep and the input shaft "nose" is a little too long. The early top loaders are the same. Note - the top loader behind a big block (FE's) are different and they are shorter input shaft than the small block input shaft.
The very early top loaders had the same bolt pattern as the Y. Next came top loaders with a dual top bolt pattern, one which was the same as the Y. The third configuration had a wide pattern at the top, but could be drilled for the Y top bolt patter, so I am told.
I have one of the very early top loaders behind a 312, and had to shorten the input shaft about 3/8 of an inch. Additionally, I had to trim the diameter of the front bearing retainer a small amount
The very early top loaders had the same bolt pattern as the Y. Next came top loaders with a dual top bolt pattern, one which was the same as the Y. The third configuration had a wide pattern at the top, but could be drilled for the Y top bolt patter, so I am told.
I have one of the very early top loaders behind a 312, and had to shorten the input shaft about 3/8 of an inch. Additionally, I had to trim the diameter of the front bearing retainer a small amount
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
What year model is the truck? 1953 was a one year only and things changed again in 1954. Mostly mounting is different. The T98 has its own pattern too.
It also depends on where you want the shifter to be located as to what transmission. The T-98 was synchronized from 2nd thru 4th with none for 1st. The bell housing was the rear support so they are big but they are out there since they used them so long for trucks.
I think I would want a Ford 9-inch behind a transmission like that. These units were used till the end of Y-block production but I'm not sure about the bell housings. If you let go of the clutch pretty good in granny gear, it might break something in that 8-inch.
It also depends on where you want the shifter to be located as to what transmission. The T-98 was synchronized from 2nd thru 4th with none for 1st. The bell housing was the rear support so they are big but they are out there since they used them so long for trucks.
I think I would want a Ford 9-inch behind a transmission like that. These units were used till the end of Y-block production but I'm not sure about the bell housings. If you let go of the clutch pretty good in granny gear, it might break something in that 8-inch.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
The T-10 was a BORG WARNER while the TOP LOADER was a FORD T&C trans.
If you break a F/4/S, you have one hell of a car.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The early Falcon Sprints, Rancheros, and the Mustangs up into 1965 had the old narrow Borg Warner pattern transmission. I used to have one out of a 1963.5 Sprint but I gave it to a good friend of mine.
Your shifter will be closer to the seat but it should work OK.
Your shifter will be closer to the seat but it should work OK.
Since you have a 3 spd bell, the narrow toploader or narrow T10 will bolt up. A 64 and earlier Galaxie trans would be the best as far as shifter location, it's the farthest forward, a Mustang trans will put the shifter right at the seat. Most likely the clutch splines will be the same count as what you now have. You can use a later trans, with the dual bolt pattern, but the front bearing retainer is larger than the opening on your bellhousing. I've removed them and turned them down on a lathe to fit. Not sure about the drive line length. But, if you are going to the trouble to do this, I agree with the others, go with a T5, it will probably cost less than the price you will pay for an original toploader or T10
paul2748
Well-known member
Sent you a PM regarding your questions. Here is a copy
Regarding the clutch disc, you will have to measure the diameter of the nose and count the splines on the new trans to see if they are the same as your old disc.
The same with the throw-out bearing - I don't know if the diameters are the same- I started with an automatic car so I didn't have a three speed to compare to.
When I did the 4 speed conversion in my 54 that is what I did. Then I went to Centerforce's web site and looked up Ford discs and pressure plates (I went to a 11 inch clutch). They have all sorts of combinations so they should have something that you can use. Ditto with the throw-out bearing.
If you have a favorite parts store, they may have a book showing what is available.
I put Centerforce's dual friction clutch assemblies in two cars and they work very well. Recommended.
Once you get the part numbers, you can get the parts from Jegs or Summitt (maybe direct from Centerforce but Jegs and Summitt's prices are usually better).
The only concern is the Centerforce disc in relation to the flywheel. There may be interference between the disc hub rivets and the center opening of the flywheel. The info I got from Centerforce with the clutch made mention of this so it has to be taken into consideration. I can email a copy of this if you buy a Centerrforce disc and you don't see any mention of it. Any good auto machine shop should be able to handle this.
Regarding the clutch disc, you will have to measure the diameter of the nose and count the splines on the new trans to see if they are the same as your old disc.
The same with the throw-out bearing - I don't know if the diameters are the same- I started with an automatic car so I didn't have a three speed to compare to.
When I did the 4 speed conversion in my 54 that is what I did. Then I went to Centerforce's web site and looked up Ford discs and pressure plates (I went to a 11 inch clutch). They have all sorts of combinations so they should have something that you can use. Ditto with the throw-out bearing.
If you have a favorite parts store, they may have a book showing what is available.
I put Centerforce's dual friction clutch assemblies in two cars and they work very well. Recommended.
Once you get the part numbers, you can get the parts from Jegs or Summitt (maybe direct from Centerforce but Jegs and Summitt's prices are usually better).
The only concern is the Centerforce disc in relation to the flywheel. There may be interference between the disc hub rivets and the center opening of the flywheel. The info I got from Centerforce with the clutch made mention of this so it has to be taken into consideration. I can email a copy of this if you buy a Centerrforce disc and you don't see any mention of it. Any good auto machine shop should be able to handle this.
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