F1 Headlight Switch

J

jack orchard

Senior Member
Anybody try a GM headlight switch (68 or so)in a F1 truck? They are cheaper, available everywhere, and about the same size. Just curious,...jack
 
Just in case anyone cares: I finished my GM switch install. Fits in great. I'm a believer. Has separate position for park lites without headlites, variable brightness for dash lites and built-in dome lite switch.
 
A lot of guys who go with IFS and a GM or aftermarket column use them because they interface with the column wiring. Lots of aftermarket wiring kits have the GM switch plug too. The only issue is that the GM switch grounds the courtesy light circuit (when you rotate the knob to vary instrument panel brightness) while stock Ford courtesy light circuits have grounded light bases. Not a huge deal, just need a separate switch for the courtesy lights.
 
Ross F-1 said:
The only issue is that the GM switch grounds the courtesy light circuit (when you rotate the knob to vary instrument panel brightness) while stock Ford courtesy light circuits have grounded light bases. Not a huge deal, just need a separate switch for the courtesy lights.
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You are correct sir: simply add a relay in place of the additional switch. ...jack
 
I was using the F100 switch, is there a reason the chevy switch is better than the F100 switch?
 
jack orchard said:
You might have a better idea. Does it put out 12v or a ground for the dome light?
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Think about it...a switch is a switch...a means of opening or closing a connection. The function (closing to a ground connection OR closing to a power supply) depends only on how you route wires to and from that switch's connectors. DD
 
In the case of the GM headlight switch, the ground is thru the body of the switch, you have no access to that side of the switch for a wire.
 
Ross F-1 said:
In the case of the GM headlight switch, the ground is thru the body of the switch, you have no access to that side of the switch for a wire.
Click to expand...

Well said, Ross.
I still would like to know more about the F100 switch. If it puts out 12v and the other functions are the same, and the size is the same, i will pitch the Chevy switch and go to the Ford version. Not because of the Ford - Chevy thing, it's because i'm not too impressed by the quality of the GM switch i have or others i have worked with. I also would need to find the wiring connector, knob and rod for the Ford version. What year? Thanks to all. This is the type of info i was hoping to get. Best wishes to all..jack
 
AFAIK, all Ford trucks (cars?) into the '60's killed the park lights when going to the main beams. Must be a later model?

I'm using a NAPA universal switch, no courtesy light function, no instrument light dimming, but keeps the park lights on. Using it simply because it was there when I got the truck. I wouldn't mind an upgrade, although I can't imagine ever dimming the instrument lights!
 
Per the 1956 wiring diagram, 12V (-) ground system with the instrument panel lights grounded and the dome light grounded. So, the switch is putting out a (+) to these lights.
 
I will have to check the switch to see which functions work in which switch positions.
 

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There are 7 Connections on the F100 Switch as follows:

B - Power in ... Starter Solenoid
A - Hot in all sw positions ... Stop Lights
D - (fused) Hot in all sw positions ... Dome Light
R - Hot in Park & Headlight ... Tail Lights
I - Hot in Park & Headlight ... Instrument Panel Lights
H - Hot in Headlight ... Headlight Dimmer Switch
P - Hot in Park ... Parking Lights

So, P the normal Park position is Hot only in Park. Easy solution, connect parking lights to R, problem solved (if you want parking lights on in both Park & Headlight.
 
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If availability of the F1 switch or quality is an issue, try the NOS or NORS vendors for original equipment that plugs right in and is made in USA.
 
If your truck is a stocker, but 10 minutes into going through your original switch before swapping for something different. These use the same basic switch as many Fords from about '41-51. I've gone through several and never found a problen requiring replacement...
Just pry back the obvious tabs to release the plastic terminal plate from the tin, and very carefully lay out the parts...two copper contact plates and a little bunc of springs. Clean everything, polish a bit, add new clean grease and put it all back together. Check it again in 60 years.
This is the basic switch I am assuming:

images
 
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