F-1 Gauge cluster 12v Questions

GreenMonster48

GreenMonster48

Well-known member
I'm going to be converting my gauges over 12 V this weekend via the Runtz diodes. Theres a series of bars that connect 3 of the gauges together (all but the ammeter). Will I need to remove these bars? What exactly do they do?

Thanks
 
Yes, those are the power supply "wires". If you are using Runtz's, you'll have to remove them and run a power supply to each gauge with a separate Runtz in line for each (oil, gas, and temp). Have you already bought the Runtz's? If not, consider an electronic regulator that can handle all 3, available off eBay and elsewhere.
 
Yeah, they've already been ordered. I have zero electrical knowledge and those looked like the easiest way to convert. I have a friend that's good with electrical stuff. I may just hand him the Runtz's and a 6 pack of beer.
 
I will be doing the same thing.. what will i do with alternator running 12 volts? I have the Runtz reducers as well. will i need an ampmeter gauge that looks original because on the 6 volt system the wire just runs thru the gauge on back don't know exactly how that works? i will also need a 12 regulator? Thanks Ken
 

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Ken Crans said:
I will be doing the same thing.. what will i do with alternator running 12 volts? I have the Runtz reducers as well. will i need an ampmeter gauge that looks original because on the 6 volt system the wire just runs thru the gauge on back don't know exactly how that works? i will also need a 12 regulator? Thanks Ken
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The amp gauge is not volts sensitive. I don't know about using it with an alternator, this would normally meen their could potentially more amps running than the gauge can register, don't know if it will bugger the gauge. I'm using the original amp gauge with 12 volt dynamo and it's fine. I wouldn't use an alternator on mine, I simply don't see the need.
You mentioned 12 volt regulator, if your talking about the charging system, you will not be using the regulator with the alternator. They are ( most always) internally regulated.
Martin.
 
Ken, check out fifth avenue garage. I believe if you click on 'Newsletter' and scroll through, they should have some info for you.

I'll let you know how I make out with the Runtz's. I'm hoping to have that done by the end of the weekend.
 
Ken Crans said:
I will be doing the same thing.. what will i do with alternator running 12 volts? I have the Runtz reducers as well. will i need an ampmeter gauge that looks original because on the 6 volt system the wire just runs thru the gauge on back don't know exactly how that works? i will also need a 12 regulator? Thanks Ken
Click to expand...

Use the original gauge, the only difference is that the wire going thru the gauge has to be reversed because of the reversed polarity.
 
If you have a 90 amp alternator and a 30 amp gauge it's going to be pegged hard all the time. You might use a small under dash idiot lite to monitor the alternator. Imho
 
I have only seen my ammeter peg once, when I wore down the battery trying to start with incorrect timing after a rebuild. In normal operation the alternator keeps the battery so close to topped up that it never really moves. The ammeter on trucks at least measures NET current flow, not alternator output. ******* won't hurt it, either.

But I wouldn't get a 90-amp alternator either -- simply no need. 65 is plenty unless you have A/C, EFI, power windows, etc. Make sure the wiring is up to it!
 
An alternator based system generally only shows a higher amp reading when there is a high amp draw on an inductive type meter. The inductive type meter is sensitive to power flow mostly. The battery will charge back up pretty quick after starting so a guy won't see it show much of a charge after that. A person would need a shunt connected in the alternator "power to the bus" wire to connect up a standard amp meter to see it show much of an amperage output in relation to charge or discharge. The other problem was already mentioned about the OEM inductive meter being rated for 35 amp output when most alternators are 42 to 65 amp rated.
 
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Wow! this is getting interesting... i looked at the web site with the alternator gazette. thanks for the link green monster keep us updated with this issue. I will be doing a total rewire soon. Thanks for all your help Ken
 
SUCCESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you, Kendall for posting that picture. The visual made all the difference in the world.

The old girl fired up and all my gauges are working!

In case anyone is interested for future reference, these are the parts I bought:

Napa Echlin Voltage regulator for 1956 F100
Napa Echlin Coil IC14 (this is an internally resisted coil AND it fits in the original coil holder)
3 Runtz diodes (although Speedy Bill accidentally sent me a 4th one...shhhh)
I had actually bought a 12V starter solenoid, but didn't install it. Still using the 6V
And had my generator rewired at a local shop to the tune of $100 out the door.

Oh, and don't for get your bulbs.
1155 for parking lights
#57 for the dash lights
#53 for Hi beam indicator (my indicator stays on full time now, need to figure out why)
1157's for the taillights.
6014s for the headlights if you can find them. Napa gave me a halogen equivalent, whick I'm a little leary of with the stock headlight switch. May put in some kind of relay

Beer time!
 
The forgoing exchanges are great. I'm running a Delco three-wire 10 SI 55 amp ALT. My gauges use the Runtz units. Regarding the original Ford AMP gauge, I wanted to keep it operational for appearance reasons so it remained and has never registered more that say 15 amp (I have my ALT sensor wired to the starter solenoid terminal). I removed an aftermarket AMP add-on gauge the previous owner installed and put in a VOLT gauge. I also ran No. 8 wire from ALT to a Distribution Terminal and continued it to the Starter Solenoid, and install relays on my headlights and fog lights. Sure perked the car up; no more dim headlights and lazy heater fans. Dan :)
 
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