F-1 fan blower switch

F

Ford Freak

Well-known member
Hi Guy's ! I have a question for the electrical gurus . The fan blower switch on my '52 F-1 gets hot (too hot too touch) when turned on . I 'm no electrical expert , but feel this can't be normal . It appears to be the original switch . Any ideas ? Thanks......
 
Most of the multi-speed motor control switches of the era had resistors in them to drop voltage to the motor to decrease fan speed. The switch will run hotter in the low speed positions than in the high speed position for this type of switch due to the heat generated by the resistors. Later motors have more than one set of windings so that speed can be controlled by switching to a lower speed set of field windings. These motors will have more than 2 leads going in. A motor with worn bearings can draw a lot more current than a motor with good ones so that can have an effect too. If it gets hot enough to affect the wire, the fuse or breaker will open when it goes over the max rating. Make certain that you have fuses or breakers of the correct rating to protect the system circuit.
 
Also...if it is heating in the full speed position, there is resistance that shouldn't be. In my experience all original early Ford switches are simple and well made, and I open and overhaul them. I've done heater switches, hedlight ones, floor dimmers, and various small ones. All I have ever found wrong is dirt and sometimes minor corrosion on the contacts. The generally open right up with minor bending of tabs, and from there all you need is five minutes of cleaning and shining. I greas enclosed ones like HL, but your heater switch is likely open so just cleanitup.
 
The blower switch on mine, mounted in a little cast pot metal "BLOWER" piece under the dash, was just a switch, not adjustable. I don't know which was stock? I have a NAPA rheostat, lighted with white nob, to control the speed and it got so hot that I added a ceramic resistor ahead of it. If I ran the fan at full speed even on the coldest day my feet would be on fire. You aren't 12v, are you?
 
If you have not replaced the fan motor with a 12v motor, the rheostat is going to overheat big-time.
 
But running at full speed the switch should not be resisting significantly, so heat means time for some cleaning. Don't know these haye model Ford, but I think original switch would be a click type with resisted position and full flow, two sets it it reverses like the earlier ones. There are aftermarket ones that rotate through a range of resistance, but again they should be just brass-to-brass when full on.
 
A 6v motor on 12v draws so much current that all the wires may be getting hot. Not sure but I don't think the NAPA type really clicks into a "straight-thru" position, just minimal resistance.
 
I had a 48 f-1. As I recall, the fan motor was under the right fender and attached
to the fan squirrel cage there also. Not a good idea for location as these things rusted out quickly. Anyway, I got a new 12 v fan motor when I switched to 12 v. I took
my old fan with me to a junkyard and they had plenty to choose from. I don't think you will have any problem finding a replacement fan motor this way either. I used the same original switch at the dash that reduces the motor speed. Never had a problem with heat at switch or motor after this .Terry
 
Terry, you had the optional MagicAir fresh-air heater. Most have a dealer-installed box heater inside the cab.
 
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