EZ steer, good or bad?

Grapevine has it that EZ-Steer is no longer making their boxes. Bunch of guys make the The F100 boxes. Mel Gross & Dave Delmue are the 2 I'm famaliar with. You would need to get prices from them, but either one is way cheaper than the EZ boxes that didn't work all that well in the first place (don't ask me how I know that).
 
I think the ez steer box is the one I hear bad things about, do your home work.

I tried a F-100 box,to much like the old Chrysler full time power steering, to sensitive!
Others have done the f-100 and love it, kinda dealers choice.

I went back to a standard box with a shorten pitman arm.
 
I've not heard anything good about EZ steer.
Mel Gross seems like a good man to do business with and advertises in the swap meet section..
Jerry is the first I've heard that does not like the F100 conversion.. I'm glad to hear that.. I'm a big fan of old muscle Chrysler products, but not of their early power steering..
 
A properly restored original steering box & steering arms will surprise you with how easy & smooth they work.

Personal opinion- I think alot of people go with F-100 boxes because they are used to a poorly restored steering system and have no idea how good the original setup is if restored correctly.
 
Stock system is GREAT when properly set up, and it's not hard to do. Steering is light and gives the right amount of feedback from the road. I have never understood why folks want to change them out.
 
I agree, a properly restored original is great. I drove a fellow club member's 29 Tudor before and after the steering box was rebuilt, and there's a world of difference, not only in steering ease, but in how much better it tracked down the road without the extra play.
 
count one more vote for original 2 tooth boxes. With proper clearances in the box and proper toe in, caster and camber, the A steers pretty easy. For easier steering yet, the teflon cups and a short pittman arm do wonders. I have driven several A's with F100 boxes, and frankly, I do not like them,,,, the feel is too vague and boat-like for my preferences..
 
Well, I am glad to hear this about the conversions, I was thinking seriously about one..
So, regarding the original 2 tooth boxes, I heard of a couple complaints regarding the needle bearings.. Is it best to install and properly fit a new bushing ?
 
Well, I am glad to hear this about the conversions, I was thinking seriously about one..
So, regarding the original 2 tooth boxes, I heard of a couple complaints regarding the needle bearings.. Is it best to install and properly fit a new bushing ?

YES, a new bushing will be fine.

I've used the thin O-ring and thin steel washer that comes with some steering kits to seal the pitman arm shaft and it's worked fine. It just slips on the shaft before you bolt the box to the frame.
 
Hardened needle bearings and a softer steel shaft will wear the shaft. For a needle bearing to work it needs a hardened sleeve as an inner race.Use the bushing.

John
 
YES, a new bushing will be fine.

I've used the thin O-ring and thin steel washer that comes with some steering kits to seal the pitman arm shaft and it's worked fine. It just slips on the shaft before you bolt the box to the frame.

I did the same many years ago still no leaks!!
 
The needle bearings have a problem that the sector could be too soft for the small surface area. Some have made dents in the sectors which leads to fractured needles. Results are varied and the Argentine repro from 1970 in my brothers coupe has been fine with the needle bearings. My brother guesses they made the repro shaft with the same materials and hardness used with modern sectors designed for needle bearings. Since it has not been apart it is unknown exactly how it is.

Use CAUTION with repro bushings from the parts houses. They are the incorrect size to work!!!

Follow this link to my website Steering Sectors
 
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