exhaust

wingski

wingski

Senior Member
Hey guys, is there supposed to be a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the tail pipe or is it just clamped?
 
I think Mike will be talking about this one.
Vhttp://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/exhaust-sleeve
I have one on the shelf - never got around to fitting it. I just use a little muffler putty in the joint and clamp it up.
 
Make sure muffler and manifold line up if not bend the muffler pipe put on muffler putty from any auto parts
 
Fold up some aluminum foil about 3-4 times about an inch wide and put it around the joint and put the clamp over it. There are threads on this. Quick and easy.
 
31a said:
Make sure muffler and manifold line up if not bend the muffler pipe put on muffler putty from any auto parts
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Be super careful bending the muffler pipe. It's very easy to cave in the front of the muffler, weakening the weld that attaches the perforated pipe the runs the length of the muffler. The PO of my Phaeton did that. I found that in time, vibration from the running engine and movement of the exhaust can cause the internal pipe to break free at the front, a piece of it break off and cause a heck of a din as it dances around within the muffler that can even be heard by other motorists.:eek:
 
I have never sealed my Model A nor used any of the gaskets mentioned. I just make sure it is clamped in the correct place mating to the exhaust manifold. Make sure it is snug after driving it the first time it's been put back together. I've seen times where it wasn't centered and the exhaust rubbed on the radius arm and need to be twisted out away from the transmission. Usually if you look at the tail pipe in the back, it should hang straight down and not at an angle.
 
Thanks guys. Here’s the rest of the story. I started up my ’29 A, and it was noisy. I lifted the right hood panel and could really hear noise from where the tailpipe joined the manifold. I checked the coupler and it was loose so I tightened it. CRACK!!! The pot metal coupler broke. It was then that I saw that the tailpipe had not been lined up so it fit correctly with the manifold. There I was with a broken coupler, clamp, or whatever you call that thing while I wondered, “Is this my fault or the idiot who didn’t line things up correctly.” I decided it was his fault, but I was going to be the one who paid for a new clamp. Napa does not carry anything that small and suggested that I go to a tractor dealer. I’ll probably see if a tractor dealer has a clamp that will work, but I don’t want one made of pot metal because I don’t want to break another one. That one would be my fault. Thanks for listening to me rant, I’m sure tomorrow will be better.
 
wingski said:
Thanks guys. Here’s the rest of the story. I started up my ’29 A, and it was noisy. I lifted the right hood panel and could really hear noise from where the tailpipe joined the manifold. I checked the coupler and it was loose so I tightened it. CRACK!!! The pot metal coupler broke. It was then that I saw that the tailpipe had not been lined up so it fit correctly with the manifold. There I was with a broken coupler, clamp, or whatever you call that thing while I wondered, “Is this my fault or the idiot who didn’t line things up correctly.” I decided it was his fault, but I was going to be the one who paid for a new clamp. Napa does not carry anything that small and suggested that I go to a tractor dealer. I’ll probably see if a tractor dealer has a clamp that will work, but I don’t want one made of pot metal because I don’t want to break another one. That one would be my fault. Thanks for listening to me rant, I’m sure tomorrow will be better.
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Go to the right place, a Model A vendor or Aries. Aries is just up the road from you in Medford, OR. amuffler.com You need to make sure the clamp is installed properly. If it's upside down you might break it.
 
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8 in Ford tractor was what the parts man was referring to should be able to get them at farm supply stores and Ford tractor dealerships

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If clamp is installed upside down it will NEVER tighten the muffler.

Sometimes folks install only one half of the clamp upside down same same problem.

Some Repro mufflers have smaller flanges and will never seal.

55 years and more than 50,000 miles I never used a gasket or insert no problems.
I always use original clamps.
 
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I put my muffler flange up to the manifold and held it snug with my floor jack and seen it was not perfect. I took a picture of it and took it to the muffler shop so they could see it and had them tweek it for me a little. Took it back home and did the same procedure and it fit perfect. Put the clamp on with jack holding it up and the clamp on the back tail pipe and haven't had any problems.
 
Tom F OHIO said:
I put my muffler flange up to the manifold and held it snug with my floor jack and seen it was not perfect. I took a picture of it and took it to the muffler shop so they could see it and had them tweek it for me a little. Took it back home and did the same procedure and it fit perfect. Put the clamp on with jack holding it up and the clamp on the back tail pipe and haven't had any problems.
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Yup it has to fit perfect before the clamp is put on. The clamps job is to merely hold it in place. Some lightly tap the clamp halves so it sits deeper and your not relying on the bolts and ears doing the clamping that will distort and not seal correctly in the middle. little taps as you snug up the bolts help too.
 
I have just fitted a new exhaust. It had a sticker on it telling me not to use a gasket so I did not. The downpipe needs to be lined up on the manifold then the clamp placed correctly. The diameter of the manifold is larger than the downpipe so the correct way is obvious. As you tighten the clamp it acts like a wedge and forces the trumpet on the downpipe tight to the manifold.
 
mine was the gambit of problems. I was getting heavy ex gasses in the cab. Mine was off bend and I used a split tree took a whole day of on and off to get it right and bent the flange and had to reshape it. Also my manifold is heavily pitted. You have to be careful with the cast clamps. If you can get a non cast clamp do that! I bought the sealer kit from mikes. But the copper gasket didn't allow the cast clamp to fit(broke my second one trying). The sleeve allows me an easy back stop for my goop. Not sure if its necessary but it helps me.
 
Chippy Minton said:
I have just fitted a new exhaust. It had a sticker on it telling me not to use a gasket so I did not. The downpipe needs to be lined up on the manifold then the clamp placed correctly. The diameter of the manifold is larger than the downpipe so the correct way is obvious. As you tighten the clamp it acts like a wedge and forces the trumpet on the downpipe tight to the manifold.
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Please help this old guy get this straight-takes awhile for things to sink in!

But if I understand the obvious, the small diameter side of the clamp is put around the manifold and the large diameter side of the clamp is put around the exhaust pipe on the bottom. Then how tight do you make the bolts? Do you want the two parts of the clamp to come together or just tighten till the pipe is attacked solid.

Thanks for helping this old guy to understand this. I worked a good part of the day trying to get this @#$# pipe attached to the manifold and it still leaks!
 
Fred K-OR said:
Please help this old guy get this straight-takes awhile for things to sink in!

But if I understand the obvious, the small diameter side of the clamp is put around the manifold and the large diameter side of the clamp is put around the exhaust pipe on the bottom. Then how tight do you make the bolts? Do you want the two parts of the clamp to come together or just tighten till the pipe is attacked solid.

Thanks for helping this old guy to understand this. I worked a good part of the day trying to get this @#$# pipe attached to the manifold and it still leaks!
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IIRC it's the other way around. The manifold is bigger than the pipe. When I took mine apart I had exhaust leaks all over. When putting it back together I noticed that the pipe did NOT line up with the manifold worth a hoot. Before bending the pipe to fit, I decided to look everything over. Earlier, I had noticed that it had a fairly new exhaust "hanger" ring and had also noticed that it was the same one shown in the catalogues for the model A. It was bolted on top of the lower frame rail and I thought, perhaps if I moved it to the bottom of the rail it would lower the pipe about 1/4" in that location and might help line up the pipe with the manifold. Moved the clamp and the pipe fit PERFECT on the manifold. Obviously it is intended to be bolted to the very bottom of the frame rail. Just something to check before bending stuff.
 
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