Exhaust Pipe Manifold Nut

Short of a very large crescent wrench (that I have) heat, even from a propane torch, is necessary. The threads are really crappy and it's easy as hell to cross thread the nut. yours may already be in that condition. just be aware that it should (with the lube mentioned by Farmall) screw on quite a bit by hand.
 
Run the car for a little while then use the spanner available from the parts manufacturers.

It works every time.
 
They call it a packing nut so I stuffed a loop of wood furnace door gasket rope into the nut just before turning it onto the exhaust manifold. It was easy to turn on by hand with no cross-threading and it was easy to get it tight. Without the gasket the nut either bottoms out and leaves the pipe loose or it tightens up to the point where the nut cracks. The gasket also allows the pipe to move a bit, as it will do anyway.
 
Cool Hand Lurker said:
They call it a packing nut so I stuffed a loop of wood furnace door gasket rope into the nut just before turning it onto the exhaust manifold. It was easy to turn on by hand with no cross-threading and it was easy to get it tight. Without the gasket the nut either bottoms out and leaves the pipe loose or it tightens up to the point where the nut cracks. The gasket also allows the pipe to move a bit, as it will do anyway.
Click to expand...

maybe if i read this thread earlier i might not break mine. Sigh. What done is done what an awful day for me forcing the nuts. What a waste of money for my exhaust. how much is that spanner dude? anyway i will just google it. im on a rush i just want to finish this job. thanks for the inputs guys. sorry for digging up this thread.
 
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An adjustable pipe wrench can be used also. I have used two thin pieces of wood over the jaws on the wrench and the added length of the handle has worked every time. The wood is just a cushion to prevent marking the brass nut. The packing material is a must.
 
I never used packing material either, if I was lucky enough to have an original brass nut. The two "repro" nuts that I purchased in the past five years both leaked badly when drawn up tight. May have been the manifold threads, but by adding a single loop of gasket material the problem was solved using the newer nut.
 
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