Exhaust pipe clamp

vic

Member
I've recently installed a FAM kit to my 1930 Model A.Problem now is how/where do I attach the exhaust clamp given that the engine can move but the chassis stays still .?all suggestions and comments welcome and thank you. Vic from NZ
 
Vic, my opinion only, but I used a rubber "cotton reel" exhaust mount under compression. Mounted through the standard clamp hole in the chassis rail and sitting inside the rail, on the bottom chord. A U bolt clamp on the pipe is then configured with a short steel strap to bear on the cotton reel. This allows some rotation in the exhaust as well as lengthwise expansion as it heats up.
A photo would explain it better if you are interested.

SAJ in NZ
 
I had to look up "cotton reel" so that I could understand what SAJ was talking about.
 
Interesting comment Katy. I had to look up cotton reel exhaust mount to see if my description was valid. I found this picture
SAJ in NZ.
 

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Interesting comment Katy. I had to look up cotton reel exhaust mount to see if my description was valid. I found this picture
SAJ in NZ.

Wow, you learn something new all the time on Ford Barn. I use a mount similar to this for the trunk on the back of my Town Sedan to help support it and I never knew what this "thing" was called. "Cotton reel"... never would have guessed.

Thanks for learnin' me.

 
I do not have a clear mental picture of how the "Cotton Reel" works to support the exhaust pipe. The slide describes the motion of the pipe, so how does the "Cotton Reel" deal with it? I need to see its installation.
 

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Cotton reels aside for a moment, I open up the clamp as far as it will go and wrap the pipe with a single later of paper or cling wrap (might have to use adhesive tape to hold it there). Then I insert 2 or 3 wooden wedges in the gap so that the pipe is centred in the hole. After that, I fill the gap with silicone, let it cure, inject more to fill the holes left by pulling out the wedges and away I go for the next 30,000 miles. To make removal of the wedges easy, I wet them before inserting them. Some silicones are harder than others when cured. I use a hard one for longevity.
 
Photos as requested. Two are of the cotton reel rubber, the other 2 are under my roadster using flat steel and a piece of canvas reinforced rubber. Probably cut from a car tyre or a piece of industrial belting. I cannot recall.
In both cases longitudinal expansion of the hot exhaust is permitted. Rotation is limited about the pipe axis but the manifold downpipe expanding and rotating the system in the longiitudinal plane is permitted.
SAJ in NZ
 

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Just use one of these rear exhaust clamps (from Brattons)):

7131.jpg


It looks kinda close to an original and the heat insulator will keep the exhaust pipe from rattling, but, if tightened properly (not too tight and with the cotter pin inserted), your exhaust pipe will be able to move around with the movement of your engine and the expanding and contracting from the exhaust heat.

Brad in Maryland
 
Just use one of these rear exhaust clamps (from Brattons)):

7131.jpg


It looks kinda close to an original and the heat insulator will keep the exhaust pipe from rattling, but, if tightened properly (not too tight and with the cotter pin inserted), your exhaust pipe will be able to move around with the movement of your engine and the expanding and contracting from the exhaust heat.

Brad in Maryland

I had a clamp like this on my Town Sedan and it never seemed to fit correctly. Then I installed and Aries muffler and it fit perfect.

All along I was blaming the design of the clamp and tried different remedies and it turned out to be the gyp muffler and pipe was the incorrect shape
 
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